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to led door j the astra free error for how 5 drl

HOW-TO LED DRL Error free for the Astra-J 5 door
(12:th-Feb-2017, 23:50:39)sanj424 Wrote:
(22:nd-Nov-2016, 18:24:01)aurega Wrote: Hello again ! today I have received these bulbs from Hids direct - but on the backside there is number 4014 and not 3014 as on the web.
Is that correct ? Should I return them?

Thanks

Did you get this to work without error?
i have these bulbs and they errored so not using them, i even got the resistors from hids direct and the bulbs do not even work in them, waste of money in my opinion
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To truly get them error free you need to wire in the resistors as in the tutorial


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(12:th-Feb-2017, 23:50:39)sanj424 Wrote:
(22:nd-Nov-2016, 18:24:01)aurega Wrote: Hello again ! today I have received these bulbs from Hids direct - but on the backside there is number 4014 and not 3014 as on the web.
Is that correct ? Should I return them?

Thanks

Did you get this to work without error?

Sadly no :( on my Astra ST 2013 these do not work without error...
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Gutted my DRL's are built in. No way to replace them unless I replace whole light unit :'(
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If you have standard led drl's then why would you want to change those?
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Hi All, at the start of this post it said that GTC's don't need load resistors? I have recently purchased these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-ASTRA...2749.l2649
when I first fitted them, they both worked fine but then the same night driving home from work one wasn't working! I contacted them on ebay and they have sent me a replacement. while waiting for it to arrive the one that wasn't working started working, then it didn't, then it did.... I think you get the picture? So the replacement arrived yesterday, I fitted and all was good until today. The one I originally had working fine had stopped working, so I left it for an hour gone back out and they've swapped over!!!!! It's now really doing my head in because when they're both working, they're really white and bright!!!
Anybody have any ideas???
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I had those fitted too and they didn't last long at all. Very bad quality. The bulb part came away from the holder so the connection was loose, mine would sometimes work and other times they wouldn't. A tap of the headlamp would make it light back up which meant it was definately due to it being loose inside.

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(15:th-Oct-2017, 17:18:04)bannan Wrote: I had those fitted too and they didn't last long at all. Very bad quality. The bulb part came away from the holder so the connection was loose, mine would sometimes work and other times they wouldn't. A tap of the headlamp would make it light back up which meant it was definately due to it being loose inside.

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The quality doesn’t look bad but tapping the headlight does nothing, think I’m going to have to replace them ☹️


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Since you have gtc you don't need "can bus" led's which in reality only have resistor in them. That resistor gets very hot and can damage lamp/circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkPGqM0Sl64
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[quote pid='40000' dateline='1478593644']
(6:th-Nov-2016, 23:01:15)Rusty2009 Wrote: Hids direct have just brought out a new LED DRL with new chip which is meant to be error, another chap has brought a set as soon as I hear the results I'll post back here.


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[/quote]
Just bought a set of these, no errors on a J 5-door 2013 with auto lights! Looks like extra resistors may not be needed for now at least? Anyone else had success that you know of?
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(24:th-Jan-2018, 18:36:49)posty07 Wrote: [quote pid='40000' dateline='1478593644']
(6:th-Nov-2016, 23:01:15)Rusty2009 Wrote: Hids direct have just brought out a new LED DRL with new chip which is meant to be error, another chap has brought a set as soon as I hear the results I'll post back here.


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Just bought a set of these, no errors on a J 5-door 2013 with auto lights! Looks like extra resistors may not be needed for now at least? Anyone else had success that you know of?
[/quote]

Which one is it specifically?
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Has anyone came across radio signal interference once doing this?

Local stations get interference when just drls are on... if I then light switch to dipped beam (drl dims or main beam) then it’s fine.

Got my head battered as I like listening to capital radio.

My car is Astra 2013 2.0cdti sri 5 door.
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Hi ,just reviving the old thread . I have recently chanhed headlight bulbs to philips xtreme vision and they look good but DRL look really yellowish so looking to go for LED .i have found one on ebay with canbus error free.not sure if they will work for astra j 5 door .I have looked into HIDs direct but most links are out of stock
Any suggestions.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2734891574
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(17:th-Feb-2019, 19:36:15)Rocky33 Wrote: Hi ,just reviving the old thread . I have recently chanhed headlight bulbs to philips xtreme vision and they look good but DRL look really yellowish so looking to go for LED .i have found one on ebay with canbus error free.not sure if they will work for astra j 5 door .I have looked into HIDs direct but most links are  out of stock
Any suggestions.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2734891574

They don't work on a 5 door J
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Hello! Sorry for my bad English. I tried to do something less invasive than what tucpal proposed. I mean trying not to make any hole on the dust cap, but intercepting the drl + and - cables on the cable that goes to the headlamp. So I found the corresponding cables, but when I plug the resistance among the drl positive and negative, the 7443 leds in position mode turn off. If I unplug the resistance, the led in position mode come back to work. Do you know why I am wrong? Thank you.
P.S.: I corrected the pin order on the lamp.
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I have resorted to blue colour Halogen bulb bought from amazon which appear bright white which wil do for me for now lol.
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I've read through most of the thread and I'm still not sure what's the state with the HIDS-DIRECT bulbs.
Can someone confirm if they work without additional resistors?

I can the same ones for about 25 euros.
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The are hit & miss some work without the need for resistors whereas others need resistors.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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(10:th-May-2014, 09:12:57)tucpal Wrote:
This is what you will need for the LED DRLS.

Two LED DRL bulbs. 7443. 50/50
four 50w 6,ohm Load Resisters.
some clips x8 or solder and shrink wrap optional.
and some extra 8,ohm cable red and black.

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

I've fitted some LED DRL bulbs to my 2013 2.0 Elite Astra-J.

If I only get the bulb fail error message for the DRL LEDs and not the side lights, do I still need 4 load resistors, or do I only need 2 load resistors bridged across the DRL wiring? i.e. wires 3 & 4 of the bulb socket?

Thanks.
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(6:th-Jun-2025, 10:47:29)Big Dave2 Wrote: Sorry to bring up an old thread.

I've fitted some LED DRL bulbs to my 2013 2.0 Elite Astra-J.

If I only get the bulb fail error message for the DRL LEDs and not the side lights, do I still need 4 load resistors, or do I only need 2 load resistors bridged across the DRL wiring? i.e. wires 3 & 4 of the bulb socket?

Thanks.

To answer to my own post. I only need a load resistor bridged across the DRL connections. None are required for the side light part of the DRL LED as no errors are being thrown up.
I'm aiming to disconnect the headlight multi-connector and use a multimeter to find the DRL wiring and tap into that as I think it'll make a neater job. I'll also pick up the earth in the connector wiring or add a tag to the wiring and connect directly onto the resistor body when I screw it to the bodywork to dissipate heat.

Also, it's pin 2 that's the +ve feed to the DRL, not pin 3, which is mentioned elsewhere in this thread for my 2013 Astra-J
Pin 3 is the +ve feed to the side light.
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Did you try rotating the bulb 180?

Also I do recall there was a trick you could do with the legs to make it work correctly without the need for a load resistor.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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(29:th-Jun-2025, 13:21:01)Rusty2009 Wrote: Did you try rotating the bulb 180?

Also I do recall there was a trick you could do with the legs to make it work correctly without the need for a load resistor.

Yeah, exactly the same rotated.
I put a multimeter across the connections to confirm which were the DRL and side light feeds.

I've tried a few LED DRLs now and the latest ones I have only throw up an error once and when cancelled via the indicator stalk, they don't appear until the next time the car is started. Error message doesn't appear if it's dark and the auto lights operate.
I will get around to fitting the load resistors at some point, but not annoying me when I can cancel and the error message doesn't come back repetitively like previous LEDs I've tried.
I shouldn't really complain as all the LED DRLs have been bought from TEMU. Full refund when I complain they don't work. Other than a bit of time, it hasn't cost me anything. Granted the last LEDs I've bought I did pay for as only giving the error once. Got cheap cancellers from TEMU too Smile with discounts they keep offering me.

Latest DRLs. I paid £3.35 (free delivery) https://share.temu.com/Lk3i1N61dcA
 
Cancellers. I paid £1.72 (free delivery) https://share.temu.com/16YMQioLfuA

Bought seperately, and discounts though a credit back deal.
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finally got around to fitting the resistors a couple of weeks ago. No more bulb error messages. Smile

Photos of where I mounted them. the white stuff you see is thermal paste. The same stuff they use on the processor chip in computers when mounting them to heat sinks to help dissipate the heat more evenly. It was difficult to drill the holes for the self tapping screws, and unfortunately I couldn’t mount the offside resistor in the same orientation as the nearside one. The main thing is the heat from the resistors has somewhere to go, and they’re not in the way.

Well I’ve tried for the last 10 mins to try and upload some photos. I give up.
Please delete this post as it’s pointless without photos.
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