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to plug consider glow things replacement

Glow plug replacement - Things to consider
#1
Hey Guys,

I have a 1.7 diesel 62 plate GTC.

I recently had the SVS message on the screen and had it scanned and turns out to by cylinder 3 glow plug and cylinder pressure (see pic).

I consider myself very competent DIYer but never done glow plugs before and obviously I've read the horror stories. Just wanted to know if there are any specific tips , tools , advice I should consider before tackling this job?

Any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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#2
Always best to soak area in WD40 a few days before, does help but not always, undo it slowly if any resistance and do it back up slightly and spray WD40 to the thread, and repeat until it comes out, most make the mistake of undoing it in one go and the end snaps off, not all is lost if it does, cover the broken plug with a sheet of metal or wood and run the engine, if necessary drive as normal it will blow it out eventually and it will go like a bullet, if you don't cover it, it will go through the cover and dent the bonnet, keep the new one handy to replace it when it does blow out.
If it snaps and leaves any thread in the hole it may be a head off job.

Putting the new one in, I used silicone grease on the thread and tighten to specified torque setting, do not over tighten it, they do not need it.

I done my Astra H with 108.000 miles and they came out as good as new, take your time and they will come out, always use the same make, don't be tempted to use cheap one's, I always use Beru and at a push Bosch.
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#3
(9:th-Jun-2021, 20:15:00)eatmybogbrush Wrote: Always best to soak area in WD40 a few days before, does help but not always, undo it slowly if any resistance and do it back up slightly and spray WD40 to the thread, and repeat until it comes out, most make the mistake of undoing it in one go and the end snaps off, not all is lost if it does, cover the broken plug with a sheet of metal or wood and run the engine, if necessary drive as normal it will blow it out eventually and it will go like a bullet, if you don't cover it, it will go through the cover and dent the bonnet, keep the new one handy to replace it when it does blow out.
If it snaps and leaves any thread in the hole it may be a head off job.

Putting the new one in, I used silicone grease on the thread and tighten to specified torque setting, do not over tighten it, they do not need it.

I done my Astra H with 108.000 miles and they came out as good as new, take your time and they will come out, always use the same make, don't be tempted to use cheap one's, I always use Beru and at a push Bosch.
Hey Pal thanks for the detailed response. Couple questions
1)When you mention about potential for the tip to break off, wouldn't that piece fall into the engine combustion chamber and how would it fly out if I have to put a piece of wood / metal, won't that just trap it in?
2) Also you say to but some wood and metal over the hole if that did happen, would the car even run / start on 3 glow plugs-
3) Quality plugs - I looked at some plugs and the Bosch are about £30 but the beru are about £130 (b4 discount) , it seems the beru on ecp website are for a A17DTS engine and the bosch for A17DTF engine (see pic) , how to tell which engine code you have?

4) I heard it's a good change them on a hot engine, any issues to doing this?

Thanks alot appreciate you taking the time



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#4
If it's anything like my 2.0 CDTi engine, then there are 3 different types of glowplug.

Cheapest first, working through to the dearest which is why you're finding some at £30, and others at £130.

Bog standard glowplugs,
Pressure sensor glowplugs,
Pressure sensor glowplugs for start stop engines.

You'll probably have at least 2 pressure plugs.

Plusgas is much better at loosening off seized parts than WD-40 is.
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#5
(10:th-Jun-2021, 13:19:01)Big Dave2 Wrote: If it's anything like my 2.0 CDTi engine, then there are 3 different types of glowplug.

Cheapest first, working through to the dearest which is why you're finding some at £30, and others at £130.

Bog standard glowplugs,
Pressure sensor glowplugs,
Pressure sensor glowplugs for start stop engines.

You'll probably have at least 2 pressure plugs.

Plusgas is much better at loosening off seized parts than WD-40 is.
Thanks for this I've ordered some plus gas for this job and plan to soak it for a few days to do the best by the vehicle. If you know, but the glow plug cylinders, are the cylinder 1,2,3,4 working left to right of the engine or 1,2,3,4 going right to left?

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#6
Cylinder 1 is usually the end closest to the cambelt.
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#7
(15:th-Jun-2021, 13:23:27)Big Dave2 Wrote: Cylinder 1 is usually the end closest to the cambelt.
Thanks for this so is that the side closest to the air box filter housing?

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#8
Yes opposite side to battery, as you look into engine bay the left side.
NAVI950 , DAB+ & Rear Camera , quick heat, auto lights and rain sensor retrofit
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#9
(15:th-Jun-2021, 20:13:59)Jpbroad1970 Wrote: Yes opposite side to battery, as you look into engine bay the left side.
Hey JP,

So hitting my first hurdle, I'm trying to remove the wiring loom from the top of the glow plugs. Are they just straight pull off or do you need to squeeze tabs at the sides? Don't want to break anything.?

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#10
Hopefully this You-Tube clip helps?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5qMtwB7nsY
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#11
(16:th-Jun-2021, 13:01:05)Big Dave2 Wrote: Hopefully this You-Tube clip helps?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5qMtwB7nsY
Thanks for this but this video is for a different type, those ones are "L" shaped, where mine are straight. Cannot believe no else had issues with this, you feel like your going to break them

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#12
Does anyone know the talk specs in Nm for the glow plugs?

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#13
To anyone whoay be having same trouble, this video is how I managed to get it off also but also used some plus gas spray to get behind plastic to make it easier getting off

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#14
So I managed to get it replaced. Didnt have any issues, but some tips for anyone else of alittle worried:

1) Buy Plus Gas and soak under the glow plug in the morning and the night and do that for 2 days minimum (it may have come out without but if not you would be kicking self for not doing it)

2) Undoing the spark plug: I used a 3/8 torque wrench set in the "undo" mode and set it to 9Nm, this will ensure that if it is tightger then this your wrench will stop you from going to harsh in the terms of torque/ Nm

3) Do it on a Hot engine, whilst my glow plug was.completely dead so most likely didn't glow red itself to burn of any stubborn carbon, the heat from the engine may have helped loosen things (left my car running for 45mins before doing job

4) Whilst Undoing I was using a ratchet after the initial opening with the torque wrench. But to ensure I was loosening any debris in the threads, I was undo by 3 ratchet turns and then I would re tighten 2 ratchet turns

It may all be overkill but it's better.to be safe than sorry.

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