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7:th-Mar-2015, 13:47:28
(This post was last modified: 5:th-Aug-2017, 13:33:04 by Rusty2009.)
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nice how to mate
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good work well done
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Don't mean to ask a stupid question but why does the battery negative need to be disconnected?
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just to be on the safe side
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Oh fair enough  and do you know if it's possible to manually lock the car while the battery is unplugged?
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You can lock it with key but it will only lock unlock the drivers door
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Ahhhh not very useful then eh! Looks like I'll be sat in the car doing it all lol. Thanks though
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You could potentially set the car to only open the drivers door on the first key press in the configuration menu. This way you can just re lock the the drivers door with the whilst the battery is off
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Oh yeah! I forgot about that option...I'll bear that in mind when I'm doing my next bit of work on the car lol. Thanks
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Nice one John I forgot all about that setting.
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I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again
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Spot on. Will be removing tomorrow.
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(24:th-Jan-2016, 12:51:07)Nemo Wrote: I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again
Sorry I missed this post.
What I do is reset them on the bench then test them in the car (or on the bench rig) full needle sweep.
Rebuild, on refitting I plug into Car and put key to pos 2 (so all lights are on) then position the bottom and clip the top in. This saves the needle bounce.
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Any thoughts @Rusty2009 the tachometer needle only keeps dropping. I set to off, needle sweep full arc, back to off, moves to idle.
Switch engine off.
Few hours later, go back and the needle has drooped down :(
Only happening on the tachometer, everything else is working as expected.
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Did you adjust the needle with it all plugged into the car?
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Initially. No. Then, realising what had happened, dismantled, plugged in, switched on & adjusted.
Although by adjust, I let it do what it wanted & nudged it the bit it needed - didn't spin it any great degree or anything.
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I never adjust with them plugged in.
I would suggest pooping the needle off (with it unplugged) and starting again, get the needle into position then a full needle sweep carefully rebuild then when fitting back into car have key as pos2 (so all lights are on) & clip in.
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The full needle sweep obviously extends beyond the markings - I take it you mean to sweep to that stop point & back to off?
It was rather odd that at first, it's fine it just seems after a few hours to slowly sink, like the needle is pulling itself down by gravity.
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The full needle sweep goes from 0-60/80 Depending on petrol or diesel model.
What I have noticed is the needles hold some power and that power is discharged shortly after turning off.
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Excellent, will give that a go tonight as well as setting the key to pos2 whilst clipping back in, would not surprise me if that was the culprit  quite a job that top clip!
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I never did update this post on the needle position for folks in the future.
Looks like I had pushed something somehow during doing everything. The solution, was to push to max, and then some, past the point of resistance (but not a "it's going to break" resistance). Sorted it.
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Great job, I will try to remove mine soon to fix some LED problems.
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