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7:th-Mar-2015, 13:47:28 (This post was last modified: 5:th-Aug-2017, 13:33:04 by Rusty2009.)
How-to remove Instrument Cluster (IPC)
So the first thing you should do is disconnect the battery negative
Once you have done that jump in the car and you need to lower and pull out the steering wheel using the rake adjustment
Next you need to take off the top cover, you do this pushing upwards
Then undo the 7mm bolt to undo the retainer strap & place to one side.
Next you need to take the headlight switch panel off this will just pull off.
Next you need to remove the cover trim at the front of the IPC.
You could use your finger underneath it or a trim tool
Move along the trim
Then at the other use a trim tool again to pop it off
There are 2 7mm bolts that need to undone, one is a bitch to get to.
Next you need to push this tab upwards (it's very rigid)
Top tip is use 2 slot head screw drives one in each side and prise down at an angle
The IPC will start to come out once it does tilt it forward and pull up
Next remove the plug (push the small tab in and pull the grey lever back)
Refitting is the reversal.
When you refit the top cover it pushes on, so line it all up hold it down at the back and then give it a whack with your palm and it will pop in 100% spot on (if you've lined it up right).
You could potentially set the car to only open the drivers door on the first key press in the configuration menu. This way you can just re lock the the drivers door with the whilst the battery is off
I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again
(24:th-Jan-2016, 12:51:07)Nemo Wrote: I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again
Sorry I missed this post.
What I do is reset them on the bench then test them in the car (or on the bench rig) full needle sweep.
Rebuild, on refitting I plug into Car and put key to pos 2 (so all lights are on) then position the bottom and clip the top in. This saves the needle bounce.
I would suggest pooping the needle off (with it unplugged) and starting again, get the needle into position then a full needle sweep carefully rebuild then when fitting back into car have key as pos2 (so all lights are on) & clip in.
Excellent, will give that a go tonight as well as setting the key to pos2 whilst clipping back in, would not surprise me if that was the culprit quite a job that top clip!
||Sent based on the twin scientific principles of star maths and wishy thinking.||
I never did update this post on the needle position for folks in the future.
Looks like I had pushed something somehow during doing everything. The solution, was to push to max, and then some, past the point of resistance (but not a "it's going to break" resistance). Sorted it.