VXOC Astra-J/GTC

How-to remove Instrument Cluster (IPC)

So the first thing you should do is disconnect the battery negative

[Image: 1.JPG]

Once you have done that jump in the car and you need to lower and pull out the steering wheel using the rake adjustment

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Next you need to take off the top cover, you do this pushing upwards

[Image: 5.JPG]

Then undo the 7mm bolt to undo the retainer strap & place to one side.

[Image: 7.JPG]

Next you need to take the headlight switch panel off this will just pull off.

[Image: 8.JPG]

Next you need to remove the cover trim at the front of the IPC.

[Image: 10.JPG]

You could use your finger underneath it or a trim tool

[Image: 11.JPG]

Move along the trim

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Then at the other use a trim tool again to pop it off

[Image: 14.JPG]

There are 2 7mm bolts that need to undone, one is a bitch to get to.

[Image: 15.JPG]

Next you need to push this tab upwards (it's very rigid)

[Image: 17.JPG]

Top tip is use 2 slot head screw drives one in each side and prise down at an angle

[Image: 18.JPG]

The IPC will start to come out once it does tilt it forward and pull up

[Image: 19.JPG]

Next remove the plug (push the small tab in and pull the grey lever back)

[Image: 21.JPG]

Refitting is the reversal.

When you refit the top cover it pushes on, so line it all up hold it down at the back and then give it a whack with your palm and it will pop in 100% spot on (if you've lined it up right).

[Image: 5.JPG]

nice how to mate Smile

good work well done Thumbs

Don't mean to ask a stupid question but why does the battery negative need to be disconnected?

just to be on the safe side

Oh fair enough Smile

and do you know if it's possible to manually lock the car while the battery is unplugged?

no idea

You can lock it with key but it will only lock unlock the drivers door

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Ahhhh not very useful then eh! Looks like I'll be sat in the car doing it all lol. Thanks though

You could potentially set the car to only open the drivers door on the first key press in the configuration menu. This way you can just re lock the the drivers door with the whilst the battery is off

Oh yeah! I forgot about that option...I'll bear that in mind when I'm doing my next bit of work on the car lol. Thanks Smile

Nice one John I forgot all about that setting.

I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again

Spot on. Will be removing tomorrow.

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(24:th-Jan-2016, 12:51:07)Nemo Wrote: [ -> ]I've had the IPC out and I've put it back but I can't get the needles to stay in one place. They just drop after its all built back up, I've had the engine started pushed them to 0 but they still move again

Sorry I missed this post.

What I do is reset them on the bench then test them in the car (or on the bench rig) full needle sweep.

Rebuild, on refitting I plug into Car and put key to pos 2 (so all lights are on) then position the bottom and clip the top in. This saves the needle bounce.

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Any thoughts @Rusty2009 the tachometer needle only keeps dropping. I set to off, needle sweep full arc, back to off, moves to idle.

Switch engine off.

Few hours later, go back and the needle has drooped down :(

Only happening on the tachometer, everything else is working as expected.

||Sent based on the twin scientific principles of star maths and wishy thinking.||

Did you adjust the needle with it all plugged into the car?

Initially. No. Then, realising what had happened, dismantled, plugged in, switched on & adjusted.

Although by adjust, I let it do what it wanted & nudged it the bit it needed - didn't spin it any great degree or anything.

||Sent based on the twin scientific principles of star maths and wishy thinking.||

I never adjust with them plugged in.

I would suggest pooping the needle off (with it unplugged) and starting again, get the needle into position then a full needle sweep carefully rebuild then when fitting back into car have key as pos2 (so all lights are on) & clip in.

The full needle sweep obviously extends beyond the markings - I take it you mean to sweep to that stop point & back to off?

It was rather odd that at first, it's fine it just seems after a few hours to slowly sink, like the needle is pulling itself down by gravity.

||Sent based on the twin scientific principles of star maths and wishy thinking.||

The full needle sweep goes from 0-60/80 Depending on petrol or diesel model.

What I have noticed is the needles hold some power and that power is discharged shortly after turning off.

Excellent, will give that a go tonight as well as setting the key to pos2 whilst clipping back in, would not surprise me if that was the culprit

quite a job that top clip!

||Sent based on the twin scientific principles of star maths and wishy thinking.||

good work well done

I never did update this post on the needle position for folks in the future.

Looks like I had pushed something somehow during doing everything. The solution, was to push to max, and then some, past the point of resistance (but not a "it's going to break" resistance). Sorted it.

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Great job, I will try to remove mine soon to fix some LED problems.

Rusty2009

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