Hello and welcome to my guide for replacing the rear door cards and modifying door cards from a car with rear electrics windows to one without.

With any how to guide I do not hold any responsibility for damage caused by someone who follows this guide. You need to be sutibable skilled and confident with the work you are carrying out.

First follow this very helpful guide from Rusty2009 for removing the rear door cards:

https://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How...door-cards

Here is the replacement leather door card (from car with electric windows) next to existing cloth door card from my car (without electric windows). The plastic bit of trim for the window winder needs to be installed onto the replacement door card.



You will need to sacrifice your old door cards, unless you can get hold off the plastic trim on the door card where the window winder goes.

From the back of the door card, the plastic trim for the window winder is plastic welded in.



Carefully cut or drill the top of the plastic welds off to remove the trim from the door card.



The position of the plastic trim is critical that it is installed in exactly the same position on the replacement door card. If it is not the window winder handle will not sit back in place correctly and will catch on this plastic trim bit when winding up or down.

I decided to make a cardboard template from the old door cards to place on the replacement ones for drilling the holes. I used a screwdriver to carefully score along the line of the door card plastic and material meets. The bigger the cardboard used for a template, the more accurate it will be.



I tapped the template in position so it can't move and turned the door card over to mark the holes.



Here the template has the holes marked on it. The hole in the middle is 20mm diameter and the other 4 are 6mm diameter.



The template has to be position exactly in the same place on the replacement door card before drilling.



Here the holes have been drilled on the replacement door card. I used a 20mm hole saw for the large hole. When drilling the holes, make sure that the sound proofing material on the back is out of the way.



Now the plastic trim from the old door needs to be modified to be installed on the replacement door card. I carefully drilled and tapped the 3 plastics tabs on the back that were plastic welded. I drilled a 3mm hole and used a 4mm tap. A 3.5mm hole is the correct size for a 4mm tap, but I find in plastic a smaller hole gives a better hold. You have to be very careful when drilling and tapping the plastics tabs as they are delicate. This is the plastic trim with the 3 tabs drilled a tapped.



Using 3 x 5mm long screws with penny washers, attach the plastic trim. Do not over tighten the screws as you might break the plastic tabs. I used screws, as that's what I had in my garage. You could use bolts or cap head screws.



Now you are ready to install back into your car. Re fitting is the reversal of removing, as shown in the guide for removing.



All done re installed back into your car.



Here is a link to a printerable .PDF version of the how-to

Hi All, I  am still after a space saver wheel for my 63 plate gtc ,I did purchase a new but second hand one & I thought great, but when I tried to fit it, the studs didn't line up, they was only a fraction out & didn't want to force the wheel on. I was told it came off a J GTC, so perhaps mine isn't a " J " but I didn't know there was a difference. Luckily I was able to return the wheel. I was also told that a s/saver from a Cascada  will fit , any help will be appreciated, thanks

When I purchased my Astra J, it was already fitted with an aftermarket head unit from car vision. This meant that I did not have the 4 line display, which I had purchased separately off Ebay, assuming this would work straight out of the box. I fitted this, along with a Kenwood DMX8019DABS head unit, using the Connects2 cables, etc. The head unit works completely, however nothing is appearing on the 4 line display, assuming the unit works, and the steering controls are not working (for volume, etc), and the change of the heating, etc in the car is not appearing on the head unit. 

I had purchased this all from dynamic sounds, and they have already gone through the troubleshooting of the dipswitches, order of plug-in, etc. They suggest it could be a problem with the control box, which I would need to return, so they can issue a new one. However, I have a slight feeling that this might not fix it either, not sure why though. Any possibility that car vision would have made some changes that would not allow me to easily change the head unit? As in changing and making their own wiring looms...

I have no expertise in this field, if someone could give any advice if they have encountered this before too?

Will be returning the control box on Monday.

Much appreciated for any help given!
Apologies if posted in the wrong forum, and I could not find any threads that were in a similar scenario.

Can anyone give me some advice on this please? 
 
I've had this 1.6 CDTI 2014 for 4 years (67K), always done my own servicing, including resetting oil service life indicator, but never had this 'Service Vehicle Soon' warning come up on the Multi-Function Display before, a horizontal spanner in the middle of the image of a car.   Admittedly the service was delayed and quite late this year due to Covid.

I have had issues with the Intake Air Temperature sensor of recent triggering an engine MIL warning light on, but this appears to be sorted now, having erased DTC (P0111) and it not having reappeared.

But after a couple of journeys, the 'SVS' is still showing!  I've checked on my 'Streetwize Car Scan' box to see if I can reset anything, but can’t see anything.  Anyone got any ideas??   Cheers, Jeff.

As the title says really. Photos on my phone are to big to upload and photbucket isn't free any more? How do other people resize images on a phone or use another image sharing site?
Thanks

Can someone tell me will both of these two connectors work with front speakers for Opel Astra J from 2016. ?

ZRS-AG-2
ZRS-AG-21

In description for ZRS-AG-2 says it's good for all Opel models, and for ZRS-AG-21 says it's good for Opel Astra IV 2012->.

Will ZRS-AG-2 work if connector is like ZRS-AG-21, can it be used instead of ZRS-AG-21?

From the pictures of factory speakers I can see that shape of connector is like ZRS-AG-21, but I don't know if maybe ZRS-AG-2 will work.

Everything has been working well for a while, so I suppose something was bound to go wrong
We put shopping bags in boot, went off to the shops, got bags out of boot, got shopping, put full bags back in boot and drove home.
When I went to open boot, nothing - the little switch you press had no effect - typical! so we folded rear seats down and got shopping out that way.
Anyway, I knew there was a little grommet in the tailgate trim so went and got a suitably sized screwdriver (always the right tool) leant into boot area and managed to open the tailgate.
Luckily I had a spare switch and catch amongst my "may be of use someday" stash, so removed tailgate trim (only 6 little screws and a gentle tug) plugged in the new catch first - no joy, so plugged in the switch - sorted all working.
All I had to do now was to fit switch (2 little nuts) retest and then refit trim.
All now working correctly.
Made sure that my wife knew I had the parts reqd, and didn't have to spend any money on the car.
Might have to remind her of this next time a clearout of the garage is suggested!

Can I just disconnect the battery for a refresh of the system or does it come with complications..... Radio codes... Central locking etcc

Hi

Just sorting the parts to fit a calearo fm/am dab shark fin and I read that it will need 2 12 v power supplies. Is there a how too on fitting one of these as I don't fancy messing up looking for 2 12v to connect it to. Because to be honest i have never been any good with electrics and i don't want to make a mistake.

thanks 

Wayne

Saying 73% full.... But over 20k miles since last regen?