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18:th-Mar-2015, 20:51:22
This is the 'How to' guide showing you how to change your diesel fuel filter. My 'J' Astra is the 2010 1.7cdti and as far as I know, the filter is the same size and location for the 1.3, 1.7 and 2.0 models.
Firstly, always buy a branded filter such as Fram or Mann. I bought the Mann filter from Euro car parts which included two new seals which you will need and it cost me £18.30.
Job time - Estimated 30-45 mins
You will need the following tools:
Jack (I used my trolley jack and axle stands for safety)
Oil tray or similar (to catch about a pint of diesel)
Large flat bladed screwdriver
Rubber gloves
36mm socket or similar. But large pliers may do if you're careful
10mm socket or spanner
*Warning, if using Marigold type gloves as the diesel may cause them to perish within a few minutes of contact with the diesel. I used them and I managed OK.
The photo underneath doesn't show the 10mm spanner or large flat bladed screwdriver (apologies)
Chock your front wheels to start with. I only raised one side of the car and one rear wheel was left on the ground, but I always air on the side of caution. I also left the gear in reverse.
Firstly, I advise you to disconnect the negative side on the battery as during the filter change you need to disconnect the plug off the filter housing and diesel is present.
The filter is located on the drivers side, underneath the car near the rear passenger door, so you need to jack up the car at the rear right hand side.
Jack your car up, preferably with a trolley jack as the jack that comes with the car is likely to get in the way. I used a small piece of wood on my trolley jack to prevent damaging the underside of the car. Behind the jacking point 'slot' in the bodywork is a solid part of the underside of the car with a hole in it. This is the point where to place your trolley jack.
Once you have jacked up the car high enough, place an axle stand under the axle towards the right hand side. Ideally you should use two axle stands, one at each side but for this minor job where the car is only just off the ground it will be fine.
When the axle stand is in place, slowly lower the car onto it then bring the trolley jack to the rear of the car and use the jack to support the axle as well (safety). This will enable you plenty of space to work on the fuel filter.
This is the fuel filter housing which shows the 36mm nut in the centre. Within the nut is a slot where you will need your screwdriver the turn the slot to drain the excess diesel off with. I'll explain lower down this guide when to drain it off.
Looking from underneath the car, you will see an electrical plug on the filter housing. Place your tray underneath to catch a small amount of diesel during this process.
You need to unclip it and also unclip the two fuel pipes which go into the filter housing. You need to press the blue coloured parts on the clip inwards to release the pipe.
The on nearest the ground is easy, but the top one from the fuel tank is fiddly and took me a good five minutes to unclip it.
Next slowly unscrew the slot in the centre of the filter housing until fuel drains out.
I put the kettle on at this point as it took a few minutes for it to drain off. Expect to lose about a pint of diesel.
Now using your 36mm socket (preferred) or pliers, remove the housing cap. Inside is the old filter. You need to give it a good pull/wiggle to get it out. As you're likely to have diesel on your hands you may need a small pair of pliers to ease it out. Make a mental note which end came out first for when you fit the new filter inside.
This is the new filter on the left in comparison to the 12 month old one removed on the right.
Next, remove the slotted drain screw from the filter housing cap and replace the rubber washer that should be supplied with the new filter.
Also replace the large rubber gasket which seals the cap to the filter housing. Again, a new one should be supplied with the new filter.
Now you can insert your new filter and give it a push in for it to fit nice and snug. Replace the cap and tighten it up to 25Nm. Remember to nip up the slotted screw in the centre of the cap. Now re-attach the two pipes ensuring they are clipped back on correctly and plug the electrical plug back in.
Its an idea to dry the area up with an old rag or paper tissue and check for leaks. Now lower your car back on four wheels, connect the negative side of the battery back up and start the car.
Mine started up but as the air came through from the filter change the engine cut out. It then took me about 4 long attempts at starting the car as the fuel was purged through.
In total, it took me just over an hour to do this fuel filter change although it would have been a lot less if I hadn't have had to keep stopping to take photos for this 'How to' guide'. Its the least I can do to give something back to the forum from the knowledge I have gained about the Astra J.
Firstly, always buy a branded filter such as Fram or Mann. I bought the Mann filter from Euro car parts which included two new seals which you will need and it cost me £18.30.
Job time - Estimated 30-45 mins
You will need the following tools:
Jack (I used my trolley jack and axle stands for safety)
Oil tray or similar (to catch about a pint of diesel)
Large flat bladed screwdriver
Rubber gloves
36mm socket or similar. But large pliers may do if you're careful
10mm socket or spanner
*Warning, if using Marigold type gloves as the diesel may cause them to perish within a few minutes of contact with the diesel. I used them and I managed OK.
The photo underneath doesn't show the 10mm spanner or large flat bladed screwdriver (apologies)
Chock your front wheels to start with. I only raised one side of the car and one rear wheel was left on the ground, but I always air on the side of caution. I also left the gear in reverse.
Firstly, I advise you to disconnect the negative side on the battery as during the filter change you need to disconnect the plug off the filter housing and diesel is present.
The filter is located on the drivers side, underneath the car near the rear passenger door, so you need to jack up the car at the rear right hand side.
Jack your car up, preferably with a trolley jack as the jack that comes with the car is likely to get in the way. I used a small piece of wood on my trolley jack to prevent damaging the underside of the car. Behind the jacking point 'slot' in the bodywork is a solid part of the underside of the car with a hole in it. This is the point where to place your trolley jack.
Once you have jacked up the car high enough, place an axle stand under the axle towards the right hand side. Ideally you should use two axle stands, one at each side but for this minor job where the car is only just off the ground it will be fine.
When the axle stand is in place, slowly lower the car onto it then bring the trolley jack to the rear of the car and use the jack to support the axle as well (safety). This will enable you plenty of space to work on the fuel filter.
This is the fuel filter housing which shows the 36mm nut in the centre. Within the nut is a slot where you will need your screwdriver the turn the slot to drain the excess diesel off with. I'll explain lower down this guide when to drain it off.
Looking from underneath the car, you will see an electrical plug on the filter housing. Place your tray underneath to catch a small amount of diesel during this process.
You need to unclip it and also unclip the two fuel pipes which go into the filter housing. You need to press the blue coloured parts on the clip inwards to release the pipe.
The on nearest the ground is easy, but the top one from the fuel tank is fiddly and took me a good five minutes to unclip it.
Next slowly unscrew the slot in the centre of the filter housing until fuel drains out.
I put the kettle on at this point as it took a few minutes for it to drain off. Expect to lose about a pint of diesel.
Now using your 36mm socket (preferred) or pliers, remove the housing cap. Inside is the old filter. You need to give it a good pull/wiggle to get it out. As you're likely to have diesel on your hands you may need a small pair of pliers to ease it out. Make a mental note which end came out first for when you fit the new filter inside.
This is the new filter on the left in comparison to the 12 month old one removed on the right.
Next, remove the slotted drain screw from the filter housing cap and replace the rubber washer that should be supplied with the new filter.
Also replace the large rubber gasket which seals the cap to the filter housing. Again, a new one should be supplied with the new filter.
Now you can insert your new filter and give it a push in for it to fit nice and snug. Replace the cap and tighten it up to 25Nm. Remember to nip up the slotted screw in the centre of the cap. Now re-attach the two pipes ensuring they are clipped back on correctly and plug the electrical plug back in.
Its an idea to dry the area up with an old rag or paper tissue and check for leaks. Now lower your car back on four wheels, connect the negative side of the battery back up and start the car.
Mine started up but as the air came through from the filter change the engine cut out. It then took me about 4 long attempts at starting the car as the fuel was purged through.
In total, it took me just over an hour to do this fuel filter change although it would have been a lot less if I hadn't have had to keep stopping to take photos for this 'How to' guide'. Its the least I can do to give something back to the forum from the knowledge I have gained about the Astra J.