VXOC Astra-J/GTC

This is the 'How to' guide showing you how to change your diesel fuel filter. My 'J' Astra is the 2010 1.7cdti and as far as I know, the filter is the same size and location for the 1.3, 1.7 and 2.0 models.

Firstly, always buy a branded filter such as Fram or Mann. I bought the Mann filter from Euro car parts which included two new seals which you will need and it cost me £18.30.

Job time - Estimated 30-45 mins

You will need the following tools:

Jack (I used my trolley jack and axle stands for safety)
Oil tray or similar (to catch about a pint of diesel)
Large flat bladed screwdriver
Rubber gloves
36mm socket or similar. But large pliers may do if you're careful
10mm socket or spanner

*Warning, if using Marigold type gloves as the diesel may cause them to perish within a few minutes of contact with the diesel. I used them and I managed OK.

The photo underneath doesn't show the 10mm spanner or large flat bladed screwdriver (apologies)






Chock your front wheels to start with. I only raised one side of the car and one rear wheel was left on the ground, but I always air on the side of caution. I also left the gear in reverse.







Firstly, I advise you to disconnect the negative side on the battery as during the filter change you need to disconnect the plug off the filter housing and diesel is present.








The filter is located on the drivers side, underneath the car near the rear passenger door, so you need to jack up the car at the rear right hand side.
Jack your car up, preferably with a trolley jack as the jack that comes with the car is likely to get in the way. I used a small piece of wood on my trolley jack to prevent damaging the underside of the car. Behind the jacking point 'slot' in the bodywork is a solid part of the underside of the car with a hole in it. This is the point where to place your trolley jack.






Once you have jacked up the car high enough, place an axle stand under the axle towards the right hand side. Ideally you should use two axle stands, one at each side but for this minor job where the car is only just off the ground it will be fine.






When the axle stand is in place, slowly lower the car onto it then bring the trolley jack to the rear of the car and use the jack to support the axle as well (safety). This will enable you plenty of space to work on the fuel filter.







This is the fuel filter housing which shows the 36mm nut in the centre. Within the nut is a slot where you will need your screwdriver the turn the slot to drain the excess diesel off with. I'll explain lower down this guide when to drain it off.








Looking from underneath the car, you will see an electrical plug on the filter housing. Place your tray underneath to catch a small amount of diesel during this process.
You need to unclip it and also unclip the two fuel pipes which go into the filter housing. You need to press the blue coloured parts on the clip inwards to release the pipe.
The on nearest the ground is easy, but the top one from the fuel tank is fiddly and took me a good five minutes to unclip it.








Next slowly unscrew the slot in the centre of the filter housing until fuel drains out.







I put the kettle on at this point as it took a few minutes for it to drain off. Expect to lose about a pint of diesel.
Now using your 36mm socket (preferred) or pliers, remove the housing cap. Inside is the old filter. You need to give it a good pull/wiggle to get it out. As you're likely to have diesel on your hands you may need a small pair of pliers to ease it out. Make a mental note which end came out first for when you fit the new filter inside.







This is the new filter on the left in comparison to the 12 month old one removed on the right.







Next, remove the slotted drain screw from the filter housing cap and replace the rubber washer that should be supplied with the new filter.







Also replace the large rubber gasket which seals the cap to the filter housing. Again, a new one should be supplied with the new filter.







Now you can insert your new filter and give it a push in for it to fit nice and snug. Replace the cap and tighten it up to 25Nm. Remember to nip up the slotted screw in the centre of the cap. Now re-attach the two pipes ensuring they are clipped back on correctly and plug the electrical plug back in.
Its an idea to dry the area up with an old rag or paper tissue and check for leaks. Now lower your car back on four wheels, connect the negative side of the battery back up and start the car.

Mine started up but as the air came through from the filter change the engine cut out. It then took me about 4 long attempts at starting the car as the fuel was purged through.

In total, it took me just over an hour to do this fuel filter change although it would have been a lot less if I hadn't have had to keep stopping to take photos for this 'How to' guide'. Its the least I can do to give something back to the forum from the knowledge I have gained about the Astra J.

excellent well done mate

Thanks for that Graham great how-to .

On a side note you can get genuine VX filters for £5-7 on ebay handy if you have Lifetime warranty.

I've just changed my filter and now the car won't start, is there a way of priming the fuel through

i would say there is air in the fuel filter
graham will know but there should be a small bleed hole on the nut

I looked up on Internet, supposedly 2 solutions, either a vacuum pump to pull fuel through to the engine, or tow the car to jump start it, I don't have a pump and I was very sceptical about towing it but away me n my dad went towing my car, ridiculous that it had to come to that after just a filter change, but hooray it worked

A tow start won't work as you need the clutch in to start the car.

Some info from the Haynes.

Fuel system- priming & bleeding
1. After disconnecting part of the fuel supply system or running out of fuel, it is necessary to prime the fuel system and bleed off any air which may have entered the system components, as follows.

2. Prime the system by switching on the ignition three times for approximately 15 seconds each time.
Operate the starter for a maximum of 30 seconds. If the engine does not start within this time, wait 5 seconds & repeat the procedure.

3. When the engine starts, run it at a fast idle speed for a minute or so to purge any trapped air from the fuel lines. After this time the engine should idle smoothly at a constant speed.

4. If the engine idles roughly, then there is still some air trapped in the the fuel system. Increase the engine speed again for another minute or so then allow it to idle. Repeat this procedure as necessary until the engine is idling smoothly.

If that fails to work grab some easy start and spray through the air intake well turning her over (Had to do this with my veccy).

I tried all of that rusty apart from the easy start bit as I don't have any, but towing it did work, I did it last night, steps I did and got it to start, 1. While being towed, turn ignition on
2. Press clutch 3. Into 2nd gear 4. Clutch back up. And it started during a second attempt of this

---

I tried step 2 from your post quite a few times, left it a while and tried again, eventually going on Internet to research, (scared of breaking starter motor)

Hi all,

Just a few bits of feedback/help for others as I did this today myself.

First thing is there is absolutely no need to remove the 2 fuel pipes, it makes no difference at all.

You do not need to disconnect the electrical plug either, therefore you don't need to disconnect the battery.


When you spin the filter/bottom off, the filter is supposed to be clipped to the part that comes off the car, so you unscrew the filter bottom, the filter comes off attached to it & you then pull it off that part.

You therefore then push the new filter on to the part you've unscrewed from the car, change the seals & then screw the bottom back on.

Done. Took me less than 15 mins all in. The original how to is great but it's just much more work than is necessary & unless the OP has a different fitting (Mine is a 2011/60 1.7 SRI 125) then the filter shouldn't be pushed into the canister then the base screwed on - it should be clipped to the base and then that screwed on.

Hope this helps, and to anyone reading this because they have the weird fluttery gurgle Turkey noise - yes this cures it.

Thanks that will help others for sure [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

Just a note for the OP I can even see the tabs on your filter, it should be clipped to the base of yours too not just pushed in the canister - just a note for next time you change yours.

To start 1.7 cdti after filter change, easiest way is to loose screw in red circle for cca half turn and then go starting.
When it starts up tighten screw, and thats it. 
[img] image upload no limit[/img]

i did this today thanks for the info
and as Jj0063 says there is no need to disconnect the battery
or the connectors or the fuel lines at all
just bleed out and unscrew and change very easy job.
thanks again.

Excellent how to, will be doing this myself soon as I think it needs doing. Hopefully helps my poor mpg too. Which filter is best, I was going to get a Mann one from ECP.

Note: I have the 2.0 cdti 2011.

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Thank you for the guide, it's the only one I could find on the entire internet (apart from a non-comprehensive workshop manual one). My Astra J has been juddering pre-2000-revs and I'm 80% certain it's the fuel filter so I'll be attempting the filter change tomorrow. 2 questions, one quick that I'll easily find out for myself tomorrow and one stupid(!):

1) Do you think I'll be able to do this without jacking the car up? Only reason I ask is that I only have a basic jack and don't particularly want to be putting any part of my body under the car while it's up on it.

2) What do I do with the leftover pint of diesel?!

(22:nd-Aug-2015, 21:04:19)Jj0063 Wrote: [ -> ]Hope this helps, and to anyone reading this because they have the weird fluttery gurgle Turkey noise - yes this cures it.

YES! I've been trying to find out what that noise is but found describing it impossible. I know exactly what you mean and it's been driving me slowly mad. Normally happens just after accelerating and letting my foot off the pedal in 2nd or 3rd gear, like something winding down.

(29:th-Jan-2016, 14:09:58)B4NKSIE Wrote: [ -> ]Thank you for the guide, it's the only one I could find on the entire internet (apart from a non-comprehensive workshop manual one).   My Astra J has been juddering pre-2000-revs and I'm 80% certain it's the fuel filter so I'll be attempting the filter change tomorrow.   2 questions, one quick that I'll easily find out for myself tomorrow and one stupid(!):

1)  Do you think I'll be able to do this without jacking the car up?  Only reason I ask is that I only have a basic jack and don't particularly want to be putting any part of my body under the car while it's up on it.

2)  What do I do with the leftover pint of diesel?!

(22:nd-Aug-2015, 21:04:19)Jj0063 Wrote: [ -> ]Hope this helps, and to anyone reading this because they have the weird fluttery gurgle Turkey noise - yes this cures it.

YES!  I've been trying to find out what that noise is but found describing it impossible.  I know exactly what you mean and it's been driving me slowly mad.  Normally happens just after accelerating and letting my foot off the pedal in 2nd or 3rd gear, like something winding down.

Yes it's the filter but 7000 miles later mine is doing it again lol

Done. Took me a good while longer than 15 minutes as I had to go and buy a 36mm socket because pliers didn't work and I discharged the battery trying to get the car going again so had to get a mate to give me a jump start.

Note that you don't have to jack the car up if you use a 50p piece instead of a flat head screwdriver!

The pre-2000 revs judder is unfortunately still there but the turkey noise is gone.

nice one well done

Hi All,
Newbie to this forum. However i am referring to Fuel filter change , if i just take the nut off 36mm without draining to change the filter, would this be ok, as i will have large container to catch say about pint of Diesel. If my car has 1/2 Tank, this will not be drained out automatically when changing the fuel filter, as i do not want fuel all over the road.

(23:rd-Aug-2015, 13:15:20)nidzo Wrote: [ -> ]To start 1.7 cdti after filter change, easiest way is to loose screw in red circle for cca half turn and then go starting.
When it starts up tighten screw, and thats it. 
[img] image upload no limit[/img]

What does that do mate?

I used the metal maintenance ramp to to change the oil and the trolley jack for the fuel filter.

However my next door neighbour advised me, as he deals in vans and trucks, he told me 1st change the fuel filter and then make sure you start the engine,as if does not then you will need to prime it with the key in the ignition up to II, not starting engine for about 15 seconds and hopefully it should start the engine. If not then you will another person in the car and another person near the air in take pipe and spray inflammable spray, as this will soon start the engine.

Long story I had a struggle to get the engine to start and my battery was dead , when I had to prime and crank the engine, as I lost the power from the battery. I do not drive the car much, so this why my battery is not getting charge,as it should.

Word of advice , if you do change fuel filter, once the new filter is fitted pour/fill diesel on the new filter, which will have the base cap, whihc you will screw back to the body of the Fuel filter. This is to avoid empty fuel, which we lost during replacement of the fuel filter and less chance of air getting in fuel lines and starting the engine,in first go. I never disconnected the battery or fuel lines above,as you can use 32mm socket or 32mm open end spanner to open the fuel filter.

Air filter was easy to Change,as I only took out the Philips screws out and did not loosened the hose pipe clip,as I just slide the old filter and clean the compartment area and slide the new Air filter and screw the cover back. Old Air filter has small bits fly and small bit of dirt.

Cabin pollen filter was also change ,as I took the side trim off near the glove compartment and 4 bolts . However I could not take the light clip off ,as I did not want to overstretched the cable,so I placed a box on the floor to support the glove box, while I change the cabin pollen filter. The old one had small bits of leaves, small dead flies and other small bits. It did not have screw at the centre , so the flap I think it had side lug,as I am not sure what it was, as the cover flips down and you just pull out the old cabin pollen filter out. It had arrow which was pointing down towards the ground,as this is the correct way you need place the cabin filter. I applied some fragrance,so when the blower is on, it may give some nice smell in the car.

I Drain the oil first,as i drove my car on the metal maintenance ramp and I removed the car undertray / open the sump access cover by Pz3 x 4 and the cover flips down. Then I used the T45 Torx socket to open the drain plug and it had a rubber washer, once the old oil is drained out, I used the existing drain plug and existing rubber washer ,by applying new oil on the washer.

I then open the Oil filter with 32mm socket and then place rag around it to catch any oil spill from the old oil filter. I then replace the large washer and 2 new washers and then connected the new oil filter. Lubricated washer with new oil. I then tighten the oil filter.

I then went in the car and release the hand brake to bring the car flat to the ground and fill the new oil,as it took total 5 litre before it came up to maximum.

Checked fuel filter, oil filter and oil sump for any leaks and no leaks.

How after service drove the car couple of miles and all ok.

If you stalled after changing filter cause of air in system I really recommend to do in the next way (see attachment) so you need pump all air until fuel come on ramp. Then all steps like followed.

If you stalled after changing filter cause of air in system I really recommend to do in the next way (see attachment) so you need pump all air until fuel come on ramp. Then all steps like followed.
[attachment=769]

I primed fuel 5 times (turned ignition on but not engine) and it turned over first time!

2.0cdti


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great thread.  one question. how low should fuel tank be. I've been draining fuel filter for ages now and so far took about 5 litres out. learned lesson after losing first 3. now draining into a petrol can.

(20:th-Nov-2015, 13:34:09)tucpal Wrote: [ -> ]i did this today thanks for the info
and as Jj0063 says there is no need to disconnect the battery
or the connectors or the fuel lines at all
just bleed out and unscrew and change very easy job.
thanks again.

hey tucpal.

I am brand new to forum today, but am planning to changing a friends filter.  once you bled out old diesel and then replaced filter and seals and finally screwed it all back  together, did you do anything to prime the system, as i am worried that when i go to start it, it wont actually start?  or did you simple screw it all back together and turn the key and it started for you all fine.?

(30:th-Apr-2017, 13:30:03)c.barker64 Wrote: [ -> ]great thread.  one question. how low should fuel tank be. I've been draining fuel filter for ages now and so far took about 5 litres out. learned lesson after losing first 3. now draining into a petrol can.

hey barker,

im intrigued to know how you got on in the end with your filter change?  Did you end up draining the whole tank? so are we meant to drain tank and then refill with diesel and then start the car?

(27:th-Nov-2017, 17:30:26)everson38 Wrote: [ -> ]

(30:th-Apr-2017, 13:30:03)c.barker64 Wrote: [ -> ]great thread.  one question. how low should fuel tank be. I've been draining fuel filter for ages now and so far took about 5 litres out. learned lesson after losing first 3. now draining into a petrol can.

hey barker,

im intrigued to know how you got on in the end with your filter change?  Did you end up draining the whole tank? so are we meant to drain tank and then refill with diesel and then start the car?

You don't drain the whole tank when you take out the bleed screw on the filter housing it will only drain what's in the housing and in the pipes up to the high pressure fuel pump, but for fuel wise I would have at least quarter of a tank as so when you go to prime it all up when the new filter is in your not drawn all the crap up from the bottom of the tank. As if you start it straight away you will draw in air, by priming I mean ignition on and off at least 10times until you cant hear the fuel been pushed up the pipes anymore then start it.

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Hey guys

Just if any noob is reading this. Want to say I changed the filter and was rather simple as people stated. The person who had a right problem w8th it must of been just unlucky. Little tip I found that if you jack up the front on both sides your able to to get to fuel filter and take it out without need to jack up back. This tip is.more for say you've just done the oil saves u a hassle having to lower back down and jack up rear. But the process is as simple as people said in this thread. I just limed the fuel system about 8 times to be safe lol and it started abit rough for a few secs and then got to grips with itself. Thanks again.

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Pictures have all gone ?

Someone have the picture of the screw that is mention above?


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