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  car jumps when ac on
Posted by: kfayz - 3:rd-May-2015, 12:25:25 - Forum: Astra-J/GTC - Replies (4)

Everytime i turn the ac on the car vibrates and starts to jump or hesitate when acceleration from stop, it also makes a very loud water boiling like noise when i hit the pedal. I've noticed on most cars the rpm will increase to 1000 if u turn the ac on but here it doesnt increase at all stays at 800. also my brake pads only last for 15000 km could reccomend me any other brand?


  Mystery Plug
Posted by: sheppy1 - 2:nd-May-2015, 22:56:15 - Forum: Astra-J/GTC - Replies (9)

Hey All,

Just finished with the work I was doing around the boot of the car over the last day or so and seem to have this plug/filler left over and no idea where it's from!

   

   

I know this will be pretty hard but does anyone have any idea where it could be from?

Thanks


  heater and blower panel
Posted by: texaspete1973 - 2:nd-May-2015, 19:06:43 - Forum: Astra-J/GTC - Replies (17)

If anybody has any ideas I would be grateful. Today I have been changing over to an after market head unit. When I clipped the heater blowers panel into the new facsia , and reconnected the power to them they no longer work,no power at all. Is there a specific fuse to look for or have I some how blown the panel.


  How To: Fit aftermarket Reverse Sensors
Posted by: sheppy1 - 2:nd-May-2015, 18:18:48 - Forum: Exterior How-to's - Replies (220)

Introduction:



Here is my tutorial on installing a set of rear aftermarket parking sensors. You’ll want to start off by following my tutorial below to remove the black interior boot trim before you do anything else. Once this has been done then you can start with the installation and routing of the wires for the parking sensor.

This is my first MAJOR tutorial so please let me know if I have missed anything or if you want more help or photos. Also big thanks to everyone on here for pointing me in the right direction with this one and also thanks to @tucpal and @rusty2009 in particular

Pre-Requisites:

You will need to extend the length of the RED/LIVE cable which comes with the kit as it won’t be long enough to feed it up the boot trim and to the reverse light wire which you’ll be splicing into. The black wire can be left as it is out of the box as it will only be traveling a few CMs to your earth point.

You’ll have already removed the black boot trim which you need to do to route the wire to the reverse light live feed. See my tutorial here:

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How-...Door-Panel

Buy some parking sensors! Ha. These are the ones I have but i have them WITHOUT the screen, just the speaker:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120855522291?_...EBIDX%3AIT

Steps:

1. Begin by removing the rubber boot from where it’s clipped onto the boot lid and the boot frame as you’ll need to do this in order to pull the wire through it. The rubber boot is this one:



It’s only attached to the car on both sides by 4 clips around the base of both sides of the boot, it comes off easily with a trim removal tool and a bit of prising .

2. Now you will want to route the connector end of the parking sensors power cable through the metal frame of the bumper lid, a hole which you can thread the wire through is circles below:

You can see my wire already poking out of this hole. 


Keep pushing it down until it pokes out of the hole which is now visible in the boot lid where the top side of the rubber boot was attached to the car.

3. Now comes the tricky part, you’ll want to feed the cable through the top end of the rubber boot and out of the bottom side of the rubber boot so it looks like this:



You can get tools for threading wires through tight spaces like this but I simply squeezed the boot together from both sides like an accordion which then made the distance I had to thread the wire less than if it was left extended like it is naturally. You’ll just want to be patient here and keep pushing it and try it pull from the other side of the boot.

4. Next you’ll need to feed the wire through the hole in the frame where the bottom of the boot was connected and just keep pushing it down as much as you can. Once you have fed a good amount of the wire into this hole then you’ll need to put your arm into the left hand side cubby hole (where the fuse box goes) and reach up and try to grab the end of the wire and pull it through to where you’d like to have the connecter box for the parking sensors. Like so:



You can even see where I attached the connector box in this above photo too.

5. Next you’ll want to re-attach the boot trim but you’ll need to ensure you feed the other end of the cable through the hole where you access the reverse lights as you’ll be splicing this into the reverse light cable next. Image can be found below to show what I mean:



6. Remove the foam from around these wires which will allow you to find the GREEN/LIVE reverse wire:

The below photos was taken inside the hole where the reverse lights wiring is accessed. It’s covered by a small piece of plastic in the boot lid which is easily removed



7. Proceed to splice the red/live wire that you’ve just been routing through the trim into the GREEN/LIVE wire which is the one for the reverse light:

It should then look something like this:



8. Next you’ll need to splice/connect a ground circle loop connector to the black end of the wire which is currently residing in the cubby hold and is the one which is part of the power connector cable that you routed through the trim:

Then you’ll need to route the ground wire (black one from the power cable) to the bolt which is also in the cubby hole:



You may already have another wire on here if you have a fuse box back there (I don’t) but it can be fastened on all the same .

Now the wiring for the power and ground is done! I then plugged each of the sensors (and the power connector) into the parking sensor console and then stuck the car into reverse and had someone wave there hand over each of the sensors one by one to test they were working. Better to find out now that ones broke than later!

9. Now that’s all done you will need to follow this tutorial to remove the bumper of the car:

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How-...ear-bumper

10. Once that off you will need to locate the circles on the inside of the bumper which you’ll be using as guides for your drilling of the holes. Now there are 6 circles in total but you just want the ones I have circled below and not the ones I have CROSSED:

[/url]

I know the photo is poor and those marks aren’t EXACTLY where I have circled and crossed them but basically there are 4 (circled) which are roughly in a straight line, these are the ones you DO want to use. The there is one more on each side (crossed) which are below the others and there are the ones you DON’T want to use.

11. Once you’ve found the 4 pre-defined marks, you’ll want to mark a little dot in the middle of each of the 4 circles. You’ll then want to use a pretty small drill bit to drill through this hole from the INSIDE to the OUTSIDE. This will serve as your reference hole.



12. Now turn the bumper over and stick a small piece of masking tape over each of the 4 holes you’ve made like so:



Now place the centre of the big circle drill bit that came in your pack inside the small hole on the OUTSIDE of the bumper and proceed to drill through to the INSIDE of the bumper to create your 4 holes an then you’ll have something like this:



Now just remove the tape and you’ll have 4 perfect circles you may need to just remove some of the excess plastic that’s left around the edges but that’s it.

13. Now you’ll want to prepare the interior of the boot of the car ready for when you feed the wires through from the bumper. The bit i’m referring too is the bit which is on the front side of the boot when you open it, it’s the big black panel which forms part of the inside of the boot. I’ll try and get some photos of this later but it simply pulls away from the car itself and is only held in place with a few clips .

14. Locate the big rubber grommet which can be seen in the following photo, it’s where the bumper was on the metal frame of the car:





I cut a small hole in this grommet which i then used to feed all of the wires from the sensors into in the next step.

15. Next you’ll want to bring the bumper over to the car and feed each one of the sensors through holes you’ve made and then push the wires through the grommet hole as mentioned above. Once they are through, you can simply reach into where you removed that plastic trim inside the boot compartment and then pull them through.



You can now also work the bumper back onto the car while pulling those wires tight into the boot compartment, you don’t want them dangling loosely.

16. Now feed them up the left hand side of the furry black trim and then pull them into the cubby hole. You can then begin to plug each of the sensors into the control until. Don’t forget that the sensor on the left side of the bumper will need to go into the control unit marked “A” and then the next one along will go into the “B” hole etc.



17. You can now put the black interior boot trim back into place and jobs a good one!  You will just want to experiment with where you have the speaker, I stuck my arm up inside the left hand side cubby hole where I fed the red live wire down and stuck it up inside there to the metal frame of the car.

Picture of where that would be from the inside is as follows:



If you could see through that white trim under the rear glass quarter then you'd see that's where I have the speaker. Seems to be pretty loud there as you can hear it echoing around the car :P

Finished Job:


AS WITH ALL MECHANICAL HOW TOO,S. 

you do this at your own risk if you follow the how to correctly 
there should be no problems thank you.


  How To: Boot Door Panel
Posted by: sheppy1 - 1:st-May-2015, 20:02:41 - Forum: Interior How-to's - Replies (6)

Hey All

This is just a quick how to for removing the black trim which is inside the boot door (the bit which has the grab handles for closing the boot from the inside). 

So to begin with there are 2 x 7MM bolts which hold the lid firmly in place to the frame of the boot itself, you want to remove these first. There are located within the internal grab handles (one on each side).

Photo is of the hole where one of the bolts was removed from (will get a better photo soon). There is another on the other side too.


Once these are out you will simply need to use a prising tool to prise the black panel away from the boot frame. You just want to work your way all around the outside trim like so:



There wasn't really much to photo then but here is a picture after the plastic trim has been removed:

Each of the blue clips is one that holds the trim to the boot frame itself, you will need to work your way around the trim with the trim removal tool ensuring each of these is unclipped.


After that the trim will pull straight off . It's pretty similar to the door card removal but it's miles easier! Also to get it back on you simply have to line up the blue clips to the corresponding holes in the boot frame and push! 

This is my first ever tutorial so hoping it isn't part of another on here (couldn't see that from my searches).


  smoked side repeaters [SOLD]
Posted by: tucpal - 1:st-May-2015, 13:18:06 - Forum: Parts for sale - Replies (4)


  Front & Rear Bumper
Posted by: Lewis6317 - 1:st-May-2015, 08:07:22 - Forum: Wanted - Replies (17)

Im looking for a complete front and rear bumper. with parking sensors. Facelift would be best suited for me but can have per facelift.

If anyone sees any going anywhere please could they post a link here


  Engine sounds funny...... Or not
Posted by: dutton84 - 30:th-Apr-2015, 09:07:48 - Forum: Astra-J/GTC Common Problems - Replies (15)

https://vimeo.com/126470389


Engine seems to have a weird clicking sound. Is that normal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  M32/M20 6 speed gear box crap?
Posted by: dutton84 - 29:th-Apr-2015, 11:44:44 - Forum: Astra-J/GTC Common Problems - Replies (9)

Just read that the gear box in my car ain't up to much. Is it true? It's fitted in all these engines

Astra: VXR / SRi Turbo 1.6, 2.0 / 1.9 CDTi
Corsa: VXR / SRi Turbo / 1.3CDTi / 1.7 CDTi
Meriva: VXR
Vectra: 1.9 CDTi / 2.2
Astra (M20): 1.3 / 1.7 CDTi


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


New car Astra SRi detail
Posted by: shaunwistow - 27:th-Apr-2015, 21:57:40 - Forum: Detailing - Replies (28)

Well as most of you know my new company car arrived. As it was driven from the dealership in Norwich it arrived with 175 miles on the clock. Within a few days I started the prep work for the forthcoming detail.


First up was to foam the car & give it a wash with Farecla G3 Body Prep shampoo. Then it was dried off with the awesome Big Yellow drying towel.





Next up was the wheels which were sprayed with Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels.





Wheels pressure washed & then the bodywork was sprayed with Bilt Hamber Korrosol, which IMO is as good as Iron-X, in fact i'd say it's better as you get more for your money.


I was quite shocked at the amount of fallout on the car, bearing in mind it's brand new.








Car then pressure washed down & washed again with Farecla G3. I didn't De-Tar the car as when inspected there wasn't any Tar to be seen


Then the car was clayed using Bilt Hamber regular clay. I used the G3 shampoo which was left in my wash bucket as the lube. The car was quite clean & this was the clay after the whole car had been done.





Car washed again, yes you guessed it, with Farecla G3. This left the car squeaky clean ready for the next stage which was to be done within a few days. The above took 3 hours in total.


A few days later the car was taken to Shane at High Definition Detail as he kindly let me use his unit in exchange for a few beer tokens.


Car at this stage was relatively clean, so just pressure washed the dust off & then washed with Farecla G3 yet again. Dried with the Big Yellow & the nooks & crannies were blasted out by my mate Steve with a pet dryer. Car then taken inside.


I then dressed the tyres with Adams VRT & the wheels were then covered up to save any potential splatter from polishing.





Whilst I was doing the wheels, Steve polished the car using a Flex VRG, Lake Country Hydrotech Pad using SiRamik Prime. This is a very mild polish, its a perfect product to use as it acts as a base for the forthcoming coating which was to be applied.





Once the polishing was complete Steve applied the SiRamik SC15 coating.





The coating is quite oily, care is needed not to let it dry out, so the bonnet was split into 3. Once the area is covered the product was buffed off & whilst Steve was doing the next area I carried out a secondary buffing to make sure all of the product has been removed. This took about 90 minutes to do the whole car. A 2nd coat was applied which took about an hour.


Some pics after the coating was applied.









The coating cures within a few hours, but it takes a week for it to fully harden. A sacrificial layer of SiRamik Mist was applied over the coating which would allow the coating to cure without the coating being compromised by any rain which might fall within the 1st 7 days.


The coating has been on a test car for nearly 18 months and is showing the same protection as it was when 1st applied.


Car then taken outside, disappointedly the sun went into hiding.








The above took a further 9 hours in addition to the 3 hours spent detoxing the car.


The following morning I came out to this as it had rained overnight.





Many thanks to Shane for the unit & to Steve for all his work.