This How To shows How to Remove the Gear knob and Gator
and How to Change the Number colors
from silver to whatever Color you want
for this How to i went for White.



First Remove the the Bottom of the Storage Tray
just Pull it up and out.



Next step Pull the Gear Gator up
until you see the Blue Ring.



Squeeze the Black Tabs above the Blue Ring
and Lift the Blue Ring up
the Gear Gator will now be Removed.



Now Gently Pri the silver Surround out
off the Gear knob
but take Care not to Damage or Mark the Gear knob
So start at the top.




When you have Done that
Remove the Number bit from the Silver trim.



Now all you have to Do
to Change the color is just Simply apply a Sticker
of the color you want over the Silver Square and Refit.



Job Done...

This is a Picture of the Silver Numbers.



And this is the  new White Numbers.



This How To may be of Use to Someone
i only Did this as i have Done the whole Interior
Black and White and it now Matches Nicely
but it Does show to Remove and Swap the Gear Gator
if say you were to Swap for the VXR Gator.

This is a how to for the ambient LED light
that goes around the Gear Gator using the Factory LED.

first step........

Is to Remove the Stereo Surround trim
for removal follow this.

How-to remove the head unit



When you have the Trim off
the next Step is to Remove the Gear knob and Gator
pull back the Gator and you will see a Blue Clip.



Push the Black Plastic Clips together
and Pull the Blue Clip up to Remove the Gear Gator.



First way to try.....

If you are really in luck you may Already have the Connector
needed There already and it will be just Taped up on the Loom
look Down to your Right Hand Side and you will see this Connector
if you have the small Connector Pictured here
then you just need to Plug the LED Light in to that Connector.  



But if you do Not or it does not work
Then you need to add Power and Ground
from the Ambient Light Circuit for this to work
so this is the Factory Led Light.

LED INFO..........

There are Two Different Types see Picture below
they have Different Connectors one for the EPB
and the Bigger Connector for the car with Manuel Hand Brake.

Here is a list of the part numbers and also options.

For no 16
13318427 LAMP, ASSY., FRONT CONSOLE (EXCEPT CENTRE CONSOLE ARMREST)

For no 17
13306445 LAMP, ASSY., FRONT CONSOLE (FOR CENTRE CONSOLE ARMREST, POC DBU) (FOR MANUAL PARK BRAKE)
13318427 LAMP, ASSY., FRONT CONSOLE (FOR CENTRE CONSOLE ARMREST, POC DBU) (FOR MANUAL PARK BRAKE)
13306445 LAMP, ASSY., FRONT CONSOLE (FOR CENTRE CONSOLE ARMREST, POC DBU) (FOR ELECTRIC PARK BRAKE)



this was the spare LED light that i had with the EBP
from my old interior.  



this is were it sits and clips into the center console.



SECOND WAY.....

If you have not got the small loom
like the one in the above picture
that goes from the LED too the bigger connector
if you undo the Big Connector in the Picture above
and look at the Pins in the connector on the Side that Goes to the Dash
and see if it has two pins in this Position in the picture bellow  
The Black and White wire.



Do not Cut this Connector like the Above Picture This was a Scarp Connector

White is positive and black is ground
check that the pins are live and working
cut the little connector off the LED
and push the wires from the LED into the white and black pins
on the connector and turn the ignition on and headlight switch on
and see if the LED lights up if it does
then you just need to add two wires from the LED
to the black and white wires and splice them in.



................................................................

If The above Two Ways have worked you will now have the LED
working around the Gear Gator if not try the next option.

tapping in to headlight switch......

you can Tap into the Ambient light Circuit
and get Power from the Headlight Switch
but i have been told this does not work on the GTC.



Pull the Switch out by Hand.



Then undo the Connector from the Headlight Switch.



You will need some extra 5 amp wire too Splice the Two Wires
from the LED in the gear gator to the Headlight Connector
one wire goes to the Black wire at the TOP of the Connector (Ground position 6.)
and one Wire goes to the Yellow wire at the bottom of the Connector (Positive position 7).



Note....

(There are Two Yellow wires on this Connector
so you need to get the right one at the bottom)
if you push the wires into the connector at the front
to check the LED works it will not light up this is normal
and the LED will not work till the headlight switch
has been plugged back in and turned on.

After you have Spliced into the Headlight switch
run the wires to the Gear gator LED  
Remove the side Trim from the Center Console
and pull out the Storage Tray
and connect the (Positive to the Red wire on the LED)
and the (Ground to the white wire on the LED).
I have just Pushed the Wires in to show you it Works
you need to cut the small Connector off the LED and splice the wires Together.









RESULTS..........  

You now have the LED Working on the Ambient Light Circuit.

The LED will now Light up when you Open the Door and then Fade out
Then come back on when you Turn the Headlight Switch on
and go off when you Turn the Headlight Switch off
and come on again when you Open the Door and Fade out when the car is Locked.



Storage tray LED.......

You can also wire an SMD Inside of the Storage Tray from the Headlight Switch
i used a LED from the Door card lights as i had one lying around
The Inside of the Tray will Light up when the headlights are turned on
you just need to Remove the Trim Surround and take the Tray out
and make a small Hole for the SMD to Shine the Light through.















As with all electrical how to,s we except no responsibility for any issues
and are carried out at your own risk. if the how to is follow correctly you will have no issues.
 

GENERAL AND THINGS TO CHECK.......

This How to is for the Heated Leather Seats
And Electric Lumber Support on the Astra J 5 Door
 
I have been Told this will Work for the GTC as well.

The first Thing you are Going to do is to Check the Rear Fuse Box
in the Rear Boot and look for a Fuse in Position (21)
a (25 amp) Fuse should be There if so you are all Good to go.



The First thing to do here is to Discontent the Battery
just to be on the Safe side as there are Air Bags in the Seats
and Better to be Safe than Sorry.



The next thing to Check is the Main Seat Connector
under the Drivers and Passengers Seats.





Just lift the Flap under the Seat and you will see the Connector
Pull the Orange Tab out and Pull the Connector apart.
it will be Fixed to the Car with by a Tab that you will Need to Pull out
so you can see the Main body Side Connector
And Check the pins are there you need
The Seat Side Connector is Unimportant.
As this will be on your new Seat.  



Now Check that you have all the Pins in the Picture like This
But (10) and (13) may be Missing for the Lumber Support
you will be Adding them Later on if they are not There.



Drivers Seat Connector...

1.....Battery Positive Voltage.
2.....Passenger Heated Seat Element Supply Voltage.
3.....Driver Side Impact Module High Control.
4.....Driver Seat Belt Switch Signal.
5.....Driver Side Impact Module Low Control.
6....Driver Seat Belt Switch Low Reference.
7.....Driver Seat Belt Anchor High Control.
8.....Driver Seat Position Switch Signal.
9.....Driver Seat Belt Anchor Low Control.
10......Battery Positive Voltage lumbar support.
11.....Passenger Heated Seat NTC Low Reference.
12.....Low Speed Serial Data.
13.....Ground lumbar support.
14.....Passenger Heated Seat NTC Signal.
15.....Passenger Heated Seat Element Return.
16.....Ground.

Passenger seat Connector....

1.....Passenger Heated Seat Element Supply Voltage.
2.....Battery Positive Voltage.
3.....Passenger Side Impact Module High Control.
4.....Passenger Seat Belt Switch Signal.
5.....Passenger Side Impact Module Low Control.
6.....Passenger Seat Belt Switch Low Reference.
7....Passenger Seat Belt Anchor High Control.
8.....Passenger Seat Position Switch Signal.
9.....Passenger Seat Belt Anchor Low Control.
10.....Battery Positive Voltage lumbar support.
11.....Passenger Heated Seat NTC Low Reference.
12....Low Speed Serial Data.
12....Passenger Seat Belt Signal.
13.....Ground lumbar support.
14.....Passenger Heated Seat NTC Signal.
15.....Ground.
16.....Passenger Heated Seat Element Return.

Seat Connector Drivers Side wire colors..

.......body side........seat side.......

1........RD-GY.............RD.
2........BN-D-BU..........BK-D-BU.
3..........OG-D-BU..........OG-BN.
4..........OG-BN...........BN-OG.
5.........D-GN-OG.........D-GN-OG .
6..........BK-OG..........BK-OG.
7..........OG-YE...........D-GN.
8..........OG-D-GN.......WH-GY.
9...........YE-OG..........BN.
10...........RD-GY.........D-BU.
11..........BK-GY........YE-OG.
12...........D-GN........YE-OG.
13............BK........BK-WH.
14..........WH-GY..........WH-GY.
15...........GY-BK..........GY-BK.
16..........BK...............BK.

Passenger Seat Connector wire colors..

Body Side........Seat Side.......

1...........BN-D-BU........BN-D-BU.
2...........RD-D-GN........RD-D-GN.
3............OG-GY...........BN.
4.............OG-VT...........OG-VT.
5 ..............BN-OG.........D-BU.
6...............BK-OG.........BK-VT.
7 ..............OG-BN..........OG-D-BN.
8 .............OG-D-BU....OG-D-BU.
9............GY-OG.........GY-OG.
10............RD-GY.......RD.
11...........BK-GY........BK-GY.
12............D-GN........D-GN.
12...........OG-BN.......OG-BN.
13..............BK..........BK.
14............WH-GY.......WH-GY.
15...........BK...........BK.
16...........GY-BK......GY-BK.

If all the Pins are there Apart from (10) and (13)
you are Good to go for the Heated Seats
but you Need to add Power and Ground
for the Lumber Support next in position (13, Ground Lumber)
And Position (10, battery positive lumber).



LUMBER SUPPORT HOW TO...........

You may have the Pins already There
So this will not be a Problem for you.

And you may have the ground there also
and just need the power
if so skip the ground how to and go straight to adding the power.

But in my Case they both were not There
I added the Two Missing Pins to the Body Side Connector
Position (13 is ground) so add the Pin to the Drivers Seat Connector Body side
and Run the Wire under the Carpet and under the Center Console to the Passenger seat
just Remove the Trim on each side of the Center Console They just Pull off
and then Push the Wire through to the Other side.





Then add a Pin to Position (13) on the Passenger Seat Body side Connector
Splice the Driver Seat wire and the Passenger Seat Wire Together
and Run the Wire to a Ground Point and fix it there
i Removed the Glove Box and just Behind there you will Find a good Earth Point.

For Glove Box Removal Follow the Link.

How-to Remove Glove Box





For the Power add a Pin to Position (10) on the Drivers seat Connector Body Side
and again run the Wire to the Passenger Seat
Under the Carpet and through the Center Console
the add a pin to position 10 on the passenger seat connector body side



Then Splice the Two Wires Together
And run the Wire under the Carpet too the Fuse Box in the Glove Box
Remove the (10 amp fuse) from (Position 16) as this is Live but has No Use
Then add a Piggy Back Fuse with Two (10 Amp Fuses)
Too Position (16 in the Glove Box Fuse box).





This will give the Power for the Lumber Support to work
This is best Wired up when the Seats are out of the Car
So you can Route the wires under the Carpet  
the Pins in the Connector are the same ones Used for the Power Fold Mirrors.



And can be Found at..

Mouser Electronics (item number 571-962942-1)

HEATED SEATS HOW TO............

All you have to do Now is fit the Correct Heater Controls and Pt them in Place
For none Climate Control or Standard AC your Heater Controls should look like this
With the Heated Seat Buttons you need.

Part Number GM 13360100...  



If you have Climate Control you will need the Heated seat Controls like This
with the Heated seat Buttons.  



You will need the Correct Heater Controls for your car
you can not Add the Wrong ones.
for info on Removing the Radio Surround Trim
and Replacing the Heater Controller Follow the First part of This.

How-to remove head unit

That is the Hard Part out off the way Now its time too fit the Seats in too the car
and the Heated Seats and Electric Lumber Support will now work when you fit the Seats
There is no Programming needed this is Plug and Play.

NOTE.......

There will be no Issues with Seat Airbags as Long as they have not been Activated if they have
you will have to Swap your old Air Bags over to the new seats.

Pre MY12 cars with Leather Seats have Electric Lumber Support
On both Drivers and Passengers Seats
after MY12 only the Drivers Seat will have the Electric Lumber Support.

FITTING THE INTERIOR.........

To Remove the Front seats
undo the Clip for the Main seat Connector under the seat.



Remove the Two T50 Torx Bolts
from the Rear Seat Rails.





Tilt the front seat Forward and Pull the seat back
so the Hooks come out the Holes at the front
Remove the Plastic Trim around the seat Belt Presenter
start at the Back and pull it away.





to Gain access to a T50 Torx Bolt for the Seat Presenter.
undo the Yellow Connector under the Seat
This is attached to the seat Belt Presenter.





The front seats will Now be Free to Remove
Refit in Reverse.

Next Remove rear Lower Bench Pull the seat up and out from the Back till it Pops out
remove the two White Plastic Lugs that hold the Rear seat down
and Refit them to your new Seat before you put it back in the car.









Remove the upper Lower seat Bench
Tilt it forward Starting at the Larger side first and Push it Up and Out
Pull the seat Apart from the Small side
then undo one 19mm Bolt from the Seat Belt
then Tilt the smaller side and Push it Up and Out.









Note the Correct Position of the Seat Belt Bracket and Refit the Bolt the same way
and that is the Rear out and then Refit in Reverse.

RESULTS.........

That is it all Done you now have Leather Heated seats and Electric Lumber Support.





[video=youtube;bPXnL6ZhGmY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPXnL6ZhGmY[/video]

if you Need to Swap the Door Cards over follow the.

door card removal how-to

Need any Help just ask here Thank,s.

AS WITH ALL ELECTRICAL HOW TOO,S.
you do this at your own risk if you follow the how to correctly
there should be no problems thank you.  

This is a How To for the Door Ambient LED Lights

There are now two Versions of this How to so this is Version one
Using the Correct LED but Taking Power
from the Window Switch Ambient Light Circuit
this means they will come on when you Open the Door
and go off when you Close the Door
and stay on when you Turn the Side Lights or Headlights on
i have my Lights wired like this.

This is the LED you will need (Part Number GM 13319462).
you could not Buy these for Love nor Money a few Mouths back
and had to Buy the Whole Door Card
But Vauxhall have just Started to Sell them now..



STEP ONE.........

Remove the Gloss Black Trim from the Door Card.



Gently start Prizing at the Bottom and Work your way Up
to the Top just take care and take your Time it will come off.





Now you have the Black Trim off the Door Card
Gently lift the Front of the Window Switch until the Switch has been Removed.





Now undo the Connector from the Window Switch
and put the Switch to one Side out off the way.



Use a Torx Screw Driver to Remove the Two screws.





STEP TWO.......

Just above the Red LED in the picture below there is a Third Screw to Remove
You can see were the LED Light goes Behind the Silver Trim
It slots into place by just pushing the LED into the slot.



Gently pull back the Silver Trim from the bottom until you see the Hole for the LED
You may need to use a Screw Driver to Pop it off.

if you need to Remove the Whole Silver Trim to get access to the hole for the LED
i Recommend Removing the whole Door Card
And push the clips out around the door handle from the back
as they will brake if you pull that bit from the front.
but you should be able too Pull the silver trim back Enough to gain access to the Slot from the front
so just take your Time start at the bottom and work your way up.

 

how-to for door card removal

This is How the LED will sit in the Door Card with the Silver trim removed
with the wire running Down the handle and into the Door Card
So it comes back up from the Hole for the Window Switch.  



STEP THREE.........

Now you need to Splice the wires Together
so Cut off the Connector on the Door LED and add  
The Red wire from the LED to the Yellow wire on the Window Switch
The White wire from the LED to the Black wire on the Window Switch

DRIVERS SIDE......



PASSENGER SIDE......



Check The LED works by plugging the connector back into the window switch and then Turning the Headlight Switch on
the Door LED Lights should now Light up.  

Make it Neat and use some Shrink Wrap to keep
the Connections nice and safe.

but if you do it this way i would Recommend using two Connectors
So you can Pull them apart if you Need to take the Door Card off again

THE RESULTS.....

So you now have working Ambient Door Lights
This is Plug and Play no Programming Needed.
         


I also connected some Red LED strip lights to the window switch
and stuck them on the inside door pockets to to improve the Door LED even more..



I also Spliced into the Headlight switch
like i did on this how to

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-how-...GEAR-GATOR

Then i ran wires to the rear doors
and put LED Strip Lights into the rear Door pockets.





SECOND OPTION..........

Also Pre MY11 cars may Already have the LED light in the Door Card
or if you have just brought a leather interior they will be in the door cards  
The only way to check is to Remove the Door Card and have a look
you will see a small Connector on the back of the Door Card just by the Handle
if you have that then the LED is There and you just need to add power and ground to the LED
you can just snip the small connector off the LED on the Door card
And splice into the window switch if you like.

or keep the Connector on and look for the other Loom on the Harness read on for this way.





If you do not have the LED in the Door card already
Order one from a Vauxhall Dealer
(Part Number, 13319462)
There about £9,00 each.


 
If you Have the small Female Connector
Taped up to the Door Loom
but no Connection From the Door Loom Connector
to the LED Connector on the Door Card
you need to get these Connectors.

2X Door Loom Side.

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity/1563190-1/connector-housing-pin-socket-tab/dp/05W5261?CMP=AFF-CJ-6148349-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

2X LED Light side.

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-amp/1563189-1/connector-housing-pin-socket-rcpt/dp/76R7387?CMP=AFF-CJ-6148349-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

You will also need some 5 amp wire
To make a small Loom with Two Wires
with the above Connectors on ether End.
This then Plugs into the end of the LED Light on the Door Card
and the other end will Plug in to the small Connector on the Door Harness.
The LED should then work RUSTY can supply this loom see post below.

But there also may be a Pin Missing from Position (34)
on the Main Door Harness Connector
you can Take Power from here by Adding a Female Pin in to Position (34)
if you don't have it already.

AS WITH ALL ELECTRICAL HOW TOO,S.
you do this at your own risk if you follow the how to correctly
there should be no problems thank you.

[MENTION=1]Rusty2009[/MENTION] does sale the factory female connection for £8.00 which will allow quick removal of the door card if ever needed.

How-to remove Window covers & door mirrors


Tools needed
*Trim tools
*Phillips Cross head
*10mm Socket

if replacing the mirror/s you will need to remove the door cards How-to Here.

So to start this is what we have (you may not have wind deflectors fitted).





We are going to start on the front door.
First thing to do is to remove the wind deflector and the metal clips that hold it in place.
Next open the door and remove the two rubber grommets that are covering the wing mirror bolts.



Next we need unhook the mirror wiring and clip it from the door



Pinch the grey tabs and pull down, to unhook the black connector there is a little clip behind it (it is fiddly to get to) then just pull it down.

Then push the rubber grommet and plug though the hole in the door.



Next undo the two bolts that are holding the wing mirror in place (10mm)



Pull the mirror off and pull the wires up and out.



Take off the foam and put it to one side you'll need this later.



Next job we need to remove the weather strip (you might not have chrome trim level depending).



Start from the wing side and pull up (you may have use some force).







Next you need to pop off the black plastic trim on the inside to reveal the screws.





Next pull the rubber out of the channel.



Undo the three screws and then you can start popping off the window cover trim.

To remove the cover simply start at the top and tease it out towards you.



Then tease it to the rear of the car.



Then pull it upwards.



Refitting is the opposite of the removal process the only thing you to do is make sure the rubber is in the channel properly.

I used my trim tool to run up and down to push the rubber in and lock it into place.







Also when refitting the weather strip make sure you put the wire for the mirror in then get someone to hold it while you fit the trim.



Now on to the rear.

Make sure you don't drop a screw otherwise the door card needs to come off.

Again remove the wind deflector if you have them fitted.

Then remove the weather strip.



Next remove the rubber from the channel.



You will see the three screws that you need to undo.



Next remove the rubber from the shut side.



Then you can start to remove the cover.

Start from the bottom and tease it out towards you.





Then you need to push towards the rear of the car.





When refitting make sure the screw plates sit under the gap you may need to push down with a trim tool.



The next cover is a little trickier as the window hinders it.

Remove the rubber from the channel and you will see the three screws.



As you can see the window hinders the bottom screw push the window in and pull it back to the rear of the car and it will be moved out the way enough.

Pull the rubber off the shut side.



Then tease the cover out towards you.



Then tease the cover at the top towards the front of the car



again refitting is the opposite of removal.

Once you've put everything back together it should look like it did when you started it.

Howto Retrofit TPMS


Ok the first thing we need to do is check a couple of things.

Pins in the rear fuse board.
The most important one is the one at the bottom.





You will also need to check you have the following wires on the grey round plug.

The wires you need to check for TPMS are 1 Black & 1 Green/Blue

There should also be other Black and a Green/Yellow (I believe these are for the rear number plate light)

There is a couple of other wires on this plug but I'm not 100% sure what they are for.



If you have the above this retrofit will be so much easier and cheaper.

Fuses 11 is used for the TPMS system.

So the parts you will need are as follows.

Rear loom please pick the loom that meets your car and make sure you add the TPMS into it.

TPMS looms

[TR] [TD]Part Number[/TD] [TD]Description[/TD] [TD]Price[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13253575[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UJ) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (EXCEPT REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING) (EXCEPT FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288746[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UN) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345919[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G6) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288745[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UM) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345917[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G4) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288743[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UK) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (EXCEPT REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING) (EXCEPT FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288749[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UR) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345920[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G7) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288748[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UQ) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345918[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G5) (EXCEPT PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288744[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UL) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (EXCEPT REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288753[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UW) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345921[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13363096[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT U24) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288747[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UP) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (EXCEPT REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13288751[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 4UT) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13345922[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT 5G9) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR REMOVABLE TRAILER COUPLING)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13363097[/TD] [TD]HARNESS, ASSY., REAR BODY (IDENT U25) (FOR PARKING PILOT SYSTEM) (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM) (FOR FLEXFIX SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR]

TPMS Sensors for the Wheels you will need 4 of each of the below items.

TPMS sensors

[TR] [TD]Part Number[/TD] [TD]Description[/TD] [TD]Price[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13348393[/TD] [TD]SENSOR, WITH VALVE (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]24455308[/TD] [TD]NUT, TYRE VALVE STEM (FOR TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM)[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR]

TPMS ECU

TPMS Module

[TR] [TD]Part Number[/TD] [TD]Description[/TD] [TD]price[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]13321961[/TD] [TD]Control unit, tyre pressure monitoring system[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR]

You can fit the loom yourself and also the TPMS ECU, you will have to get a tyre place to fit the TPMS sensors
in the wheels phone around and see who has the tools to do it I paid £24 for them to be
fitted the nuts need to be done up to 8nm.

You will find the following howto's helpful for changing the loom over and fitting the TPMS ECU.

How to remove rear bumper

Retrofit flex floor

To change the loom over you will need to remove the trim panel from the load area to reveal the
fuse board fully you will also need to remove the rear trim panel, then remove rear bumper
(don't need to take it fully off)

disconnect the old loom and remove from the car, then run the new loom though.

Install the TPMS ECU it fits behind the bumper





I used a couple of cable ties for extra peace of mind



You will need to plug the plug into the board.



There is only 1 pin in this plug for TPMS and the wire colour is Purple/Green.



Put the car back together and go and get you TPMS sensors fitted to the wheels



You will then need to get TPMS activated, dealerships seem baffled by any retrofits

I had to make two trips to get the VCI codes needed for the BCM & IPC, once that was done the system was working but not picking up the sensors in the wheels.

After much head banging with Vauxhall they said the new sensors needed to activated via the tool they hold over the sensor, No dealer could understand this.

I took a trip and swapped two wheels which I knew the sensors were working which kicked started my sensors.

The system is now fully working.





A big thanks to all who helped with this retrofit.

Please see this link to online workshop about the BCM.

How to change speakers

to remove door cards please see remove door cards how to

Tools needed

*7mm Socket
*Trim tools
*Phillips Cross head screw driver
*Torx 10 bit
*Stanley knife
*Wire cutters
*Crimping tool
*Soldering Iron (optional)

Here's everything I have.



fit the speakers into the adapters
As you can see we have a speaker adapter and a piece of foam



We need to put that bit of foam around the inside of the speaker adapter like so, (it's got a sticky back)







Now put the speaker inside
Then fix it in place with the four screws







Repeat for the other 3, sit at the table in the warm with a cuppa for that part.
Now to the car.
Remove the rear card and you will see the speaker is held in by one 7mm bolt.



Undo it and pull the adapter towards you, you might need a small slot head screwdriver on the side just to start it, (there is a little metal clip at top)



Once done unplug the connector, then cut it off,



take the wire that came with your replacement speakers (I tinned them)



then join them up to the door wiring using crimps The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint, (I've done 2 J's now and both were the same).
insulate with tape and then hook to speaker and fit





If you want to add sound deading then I removed the plastic waterproof sheet and used this as a template.





Re-stuck the plastic sheet



peeled the backing off the sound deading
and stuck to the door (I used my hot air gun to run round the edges Tucpal says a hair-dryer works too)





Replace door card and that's one rear door done.
Repeat for the other side.

Front Door

Next move onto the front door really is much the same as the rear.



Remove speaker and repeat the steps for the rear
cut the connector off crimp new connects on tape up hook up to speaker and refit.

The sound dreading is so not straightforward, leave the waterproof plastic there and just cut patches to fit it.

Before you go and put the door cards on the front doors you might to check the centre speaker,
I didn't have the speaker but I had the wiring for it.

Please see how to remove head unit

once you have removed the head unit and screen you should if luckily find the wire for the centre speaker tucked away.





Just cut the connector off and add crimp some spades on or (wire with spades on).



To fit speaker remove the plastic trim centre of the dash
Run the wires up hook up to speaker and then fit speaker.





refit trim



any extra wire pull down and hid back into the hole you found the cable



Tweeters

Remove the plastic cover trim







undo the bolt to remove tweeter and adapter.





Un-clip and remove car.
There are 3 little clips like this just pull them back gentle one by one and remove the tweeter.



I had to adapt my adapters to fit my new tweeters (this can take some time).
**DO NOT CUT YOUR TWEETER ADAPTER** check before rushing in.







Once done you can refit the tweeters.





And then replace the trim



Enjoy your new speakers.

For those that would like the wiring diagrams please see below.

Standard 6/7 speaker

Premium speakers with sub-woofer

How to Remove and Replace the Cabin Pollen Filter
for the Astra j and GTC.

STEP ONE.....

Pull out the Door Seal just by the side of the Glove Box
to gain Access to the side Trim so it can be Removed.



Just Pull the side Trim away
to Gain Access to the 4 Bolts.



Remove 4, 7mm Bolts from the Glove Box.

Take care when you Pull the Glove Box out
not to Brake or Damage the Glove Box Light
it Just Pushes out.



STEP TWO.....

You will now see the Flap for the Pollen Filter
its Held in by Two screws.



when you have the Two Screws out just Pull
the Clips from each side
and the Flap will fold Down
To get the Pollen Filter out
use a small Screw Driver to pull the Filter out
when you get it out just Refit in Reverse
but make sure the Dark side of the Pollen Filter faces up
make a Note of the Direction of the Arrows
go on the Pollen Filter.



Your Dealer will Replace the Pollen Filter every 3 Years
and for what they Cost about £10 and a 15 Minute job to Replace
i would Recommend Replacing them every Year
to keep your car Smelling nice and Fresh
and keep the Heater Blowers and Air Con in Top Condition.

Signs of a Bad Pollen Filter are
a Musty smell and Misting up Windows
when the Heater Blowers are on.

A Real nice and Easy Upgrade is to Remove and Replace
the Side Repeaters for the Dark Smoked look.



Here is the Standard Side Repeater for the Astra j 5 Door.



To Remove them from the Car all you Need is an old Credit Card,
Start at the Back by pushing the Card in,
and Push the Tab on the back of the Side Repeater
and They will Then just Pop off
the Same will Apply for the GTC.







Now you have the Repeater out
simply twist the Bulb and the Bulb will come out
Then you can Replace the Repeaters
for the new Dark Smoked ones.



This is a low Budget and an easy to do Upgrade
but its all About the Detail and they look so much Better  
they cost Around £20 from eBay
and they are Well Worth Doing.

HOW TO CHANGE DOOR PINS

Possibly the Cheapest Upgrade Here
and a very easy and Simple job to do 5 Minutes Max.

Just Unscrew the Original Plastic Door Pins by hand
and Turn the New ones Back in.





They cost around £15 for the 5 door
and £9.00 for the 3 Door
and can be found on eBay etc  
They are a Good Quaintly Product
and so Simple to do
and they have a Real Impact to the way the car Looks Inside
they are such an Improvement over the Plastic ones and well worth Doing

Irmscher sell These Pins for around £50 for a Set of 4
They are just not Worth it
as the Cheap ones are Just as Good.