Hi hope someone can help me ?
I purchased a h5754 head unit in 2018 and are still really pleased with my purchase ! , I have been playing with settings lately to try to get unit to stay on longer than 5 minutes when acc turned off which does not seem to be able to adjust ! 
Unfortunately during this process I have set default power setting to off - now I can not wake machine up at all , could anyone advise if there is any way to turn unit back on or resetting unit back to factory settings would solve my issue and if so how do I do this As looks like there is no reset button - just hole where memory card sits in screen module - thanks. 

Hi New to the forum and after a bit of info, just bought a 2014 1.6cdti with a snapped oil pump drive chain, Is this a common problem and any ideas what causes it, looks a bugger of a job, the owner was quoted £1800 at the garage hence selling it spares or repairs. 
any info would be appreciated
     cheers 
          Tim

Hi everyone, my name is Alwyn and I live in Brierley Hill (Dudley).

This is my 2011 Astra 2.0 CDTI SRI in Waterworld Blue.

I have had my car since 2016 and plan on keeping it until it dies really.

I have only really recently started doing some mods to it but have always serviced it myself.

Just thought i would post a quick hello

i own a 2010 insignia 2.0 ltr CDTI

i know this is an astra forum but i know alot of the astra J and insignia parts match up
and also the dash cluster matches aswell as im looking to ditch the amount of red and swap it all out to a nice clean white

Hello and welcome to my guide for replacing the rear door cards and modifying door cards from a car with rear electrics windows to one without.

With any how to guide I do not hold any responsibility for damage caused by someone who follows this guide. You need to be sutibable skilled and confident with the work you are carrying out.

First follow this very helpful guide from Rusty2009 for removing the rear door cards:

https://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How...door-cards

Here is the replacement leather door card (from car with electric windows) next to existing cloth door card from my car (without electric windows). The plastic bit of trim for the window winder needs to be installed onto the replacement door card.



You will need to sacrifice your old door cards, unless you can get hold off the plastic trim on the door card where the window winder goes.

From the back of the door card, the plastic trim for the window winder is plastic welded in.



Carefully cut or drill the top of the plastic welds off to remove the trim from the door card.



The position of the plastic trim is critical that it is installed in exactly the same position on the replacement door card. If it is not the window winder handle will not sit back in place correctly and will catch on this plastic trim bit when winding up or down.

I decided to make a cardboard template from the old door cards to place on the replacement ones for drilling the holes. I used a screwdriver to carefully score along the line of the door card plastic and material meets. The bigger the cardboard used for a template, the more accurate it will be.



I tapped the template in position so it can't move and turned the door card over to mark the holes.



Here the template has the holes marked on it. The hole in the middle is 20mm diameter and the other 4 are 6mm diameter.



The template has to be position exactly in the same place on the replacement door card before drilling.



Here the holes have been drilled on the replacement door card. I used a 20mm hole saw for the large hole. When drilling the holes, make sure that the sound proofing material on the back is out of the way.



Now the plastic trim from the old door needs to be modified to be installed on the replacement door card. I carefully drilled and tapped the 3 plastics tabs on the back that were plastic welded. I drilled a 3mm hole and used a 4mm tap. A 3.5mm hole is the correct size for a 4mm tap, but I find in plastic a smaller hole gives a better hold. You have to be very careful when drilling and tapping the plastics tabs as they are delicate. This is the plastic trim with the 3 tabs drilled a tapped.



Using 3 x 5mm long screws with penny washers, attach the plastic trim. Do not over tighten the screws as you might break the plastic tabs. I used screws, as that's what I had in my garage. You could use bolts or cap head screws.



Now you are ready to install back into your car. Re fitting is the reversal of removing, as shown in the guide for removing.



All done re installed back into your car.



Here is a link to a printerable .PDF version of the how-to

Hi All, I  am still after a space saver wheel for my 63 plate gtc ,I did purchase a new but second hand one & I thought great, but when I tried to fit it, the studs didn't line up, they was only a fraction out & didn't want to force the wheel on. I was told it came off a J GTC, so perhaps mine isn't a " J " but I didn't know there was a difference. Luckily I was able to return the wheel. I was also told that a s/saver from a Cascada  will fit , any help will be appreciated, thanks

When I purchased my Astra J, it was already fitted with an aftermarket head unit from car vision. This meant that I did not have the 4 line display, which I had purchased separately off Ebay, assuming this would work straight out of the box. I fitted this, along with a Kenwood DMX8019DABS head unit, using the Connects2 cables, etc. The head unit works completely, however nothing is appearing on the 4 line display, assuming the unit works, and the steering controls are not working (for volume, etc), and the change of the heating, etc in the car is not appearing on the head unit. 

I had purchased this all from dynamic sounds, and they have already gone through the troubleshooting of the dipswitches, order of plug-in, etc. They suggest it could be a problem with the control box, which I would need to return, so they can issue a new one. However, I have a slight feeling that this might not fix it either, not sure why though. Any possibility that car vision would have made some changes that would not allow me to easily change the head unit? As in changing and making their own wiring looms...

I have no expertise in this field, if someone could give any advice if they have encountered this before too?

Will be returning the control box on Monday.

Much appreciated for any help given!
Apologies if posted in the wrong forum, and I could not find any threads that were in a similar scenario.

Can anyone give me some advice on this please? 
 
I've had this 1.6 CDTI 2014 for 4 years (67K), always done my own servicing, including resetting oil service life indicator, but never had this 'Service Vehicle Soon' warning come up on the Multi-Function Display before, a horizontal spanner in the middle of the image of a car.   Admittedly the service was delayed and quite late this year due to Covid.

I have had issues with the Intake Air Temperature sensor of recent triggering an engine MIL warning light on, but this appears to be sorted now, having erased DTC (P0111) and it not having reappeared.

But after a couple of journeys, the 'SVS' is still showing!  I've checked on my 'Streetwize Car Scan' box to see if I can reset anything, but can’t see anything.  Anyone got any ideas??   Cheers, Jeff.

As the title says really. Photos on my phone are to big to upload and photbucket isn't free any more? How do other people resize images on a phone or use another image sharing site?
Thanks

Can someone tell me will both of these two connectors work with front speakers for Opel Astra J from 2016. ?

ZRS-AG-2
ZRS-AG-21

In description for ZRS-AG-2 says it's good for all Opel models, and for ZRS-AG-21 says it's good for Opel Astra IV 2012->.

Will ZRS-AG-2 work if connector is like ZRS-AG-21, can it be used instead of ZRS-AG-21?

From the pictures of factory speakers I can see that shape of connector is like ZRS-AG-21, but I don't know if maybe ZRS-AG-2 will work.