Go Pro Dash Cam

[sheppy1]

Most of my parts have arrived now and I just noticed that there is a fuse on the wire already (see photo 1). Will I still need to add one on the wire that I'm running into the fuse board (see photo 2) or is this not needed now?

Thanks

Photo 1:

Photo 2:

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[Rusty2009]

You should be fine mate just make sure you can access the 2nd fuse.

[sheppy1]

Sorry what do you mean?

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[tucpal]

do you mean do you still need two fuses in the piggy back yes you do
the other fuse will do no harm

[sheppy1]

Sorry, my question was that I noticed there is a fuse in the actual red wire itself (photo 1 under the black casing). So once I wire the fuse connector onto the end of that wire and put it into the fuse box, will I still need to add a fuse into the fuse box wire (photo 2)...?

[Lewis6317]

Sheppy where did you get all the bits from?


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[sheppy1]

Got them from eBay and Amazon

USB Cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000M...ge_o00_s00

USB Ports (12V lighter Socket): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331571248574?_...EBIDX%3AIT

Fuses: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190836262993?_...EBIDX%3AIT

Fuse Box piggyback wire: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221696207455?_...EBIDX%3AIT

Flux for soldering and some extra solder: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121029581296?_...EBIDX%3AIT

All in was about £12 or so I think

[tucpal]

yes it is safer to add the piggy back to the fuse box
one fuse will keep the fuse live
the other fuse will make the AC wire live
so just join the wires up and just keep the extra fuse in place
dont try this any other way

[sheppy1]

yes it is safer to add the piggy back to the fuse box
one fuse will keep the fuse live
the other fuse will make the AC wire live
so just join the wires up and just keep the extra fuse in place
dont try this any other way

Okay thanks mate! So just need the one fuse in the piggback fuse wire then yeah?

And don't try what the other way around? Don't want to blow something up here! Ha.

[tucpal]

2 fuses in the piggy back put two 10 amp in that and a 5 amp on the AC wire

[sheppy1]

Ahhh cool! Wasn't sure what you meant by AC wire that's all. Guessing the fuse already in the wire will be good enough won't it? Doesn't say what it is

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[tucpal]

It should be correct if it came with the cam etc

[sheppy1]

Well it's not for the cam, it just came with the 12v socket. Also just soldered the piggyback cable onto the live cable which will run to the 12v socket and some extra black cable onto the earth cable which leads to the 12v socket too. Does this look correct guys?



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[sheppy1]

Had a go at taking the glove box out today and it was really easy! Will tackle the full job once I get a few hours to do it as I want to secure the socket into the glove box roof like @rusty2009 did . Speaking of which, where exactly is the best place to drill the hole and fit it so that I can put cables into the ports and still close the glove box?

Thanks

[Rusty2009]

I put mine roughly in the middle mate


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[sheppy1]

Cool! Thanks . Turns out the piggyback fuse cable I had was the wrong size! Ha. Had to go to Halfords to get one that had a wire actually built onto a 20amp fuse

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[Rusty2009]

20 amp is way to high mate only need a 5amp MAX

[sheppy1]

Crap! Tucpal was saying stick two 10amp fuses in when I had the other incorrect wire.. Will it cause issues then?

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[tucpal]

I don't think you are understanding what a piggy back is one 10amp keeps whatever the fuse is working correctly the other 10amp will run whatever you are wanting to power so you are only using 10amp not 20 amp

[sheppy1]

Oh yeah, the guy in Halfords was saying about that.. I'm so crap with electrics! Haha. So I won't have any issues with this 20amp piggyback fuse wire then?

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[Jj0063]

The higher the wattage of a fuse means the thicker the fuse wire/more current it will take before blowing.

If you put a 5 amp fuse in, it will blow at a lower current than a 20amp.

I'm not running a fuse at all but thats the risk I'm willing to take, touch wood in the 2 years and 3 cars I've not had a problem.

[sheppy1]

Oh right then! That makes perfect sense, Thanks for explaining it in depth for an electrical numpty like me! Ha.

Guess I was just wondering what would happen if a higher fuse was used than required? Would this cause less power to reach the end terminal (12v socket in this case) or would it not do anything at all?

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[Jj0063]

It would just mean there would be more current going through it (read that as more risk of damage) before it blows - If it's recommended to run a 10 amp, run a 10 amp, if you ran for example a 2 amp, it would just blow constantly because the ampage is too low.

[Rusty2009]

A 5amp should be more than enough to power the USB port mate.


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[sheppy1]

Again thank guys! Worried again now that the 20amp I have will cause damage or just blow! I know I can get away with a 5amp but I'd have to treck back to Halfords, get a new one and then redo my wiring for the third time... I might just give it a go with the 20amp and see if it works properly!

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[sheppy1]

Just did a bit of research and know the reason for fuses now! Ha. I'm going to go get a 5amp fuse wire tomorrow.

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[sheppy1]

Have had to go for a 10amp as that's the lowest Halfords sell. Better than a 20 I guess

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[sheppy1]

Half done! Ha. Managed to fit the socket without issue and it all works as expected :







But I can't figure out how to get the usb cable onto the pillar! Any help on this guy's?

Thanks

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[Lewis6317]

wow cracking idea there mate

[sheppy1]

You mean with the location? Felt like the best place to put it as there is a bigger gap below whereas I'd have things catching on the cable if it was further to the right.

Just need to figure out how to get the usb cable up to the roof lining now! Ha

Oh and if anyone is wondering, a size 30 circle cutting drill bit is perfect for this socket! Fits like a glove

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[Rusty2009]

Pop the glove box out there is a couple of holes to the left of the fuse board run though them and up pillar.



Where the silver plate is on the right hand side to the top, you can then get it form left hand side.

[sheppy1]

Ahhh okay mate! And then do you have to remove the pillar cover to see where the cable is going?

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[Rusty2009]

Yes mate.

[sheppy1]

Okay, that's where I go a bit nervous about doing it! Ha. Pulled it back a bit and could see the air bag curtain things and didn't wanna a. Set them off and b. Obstruct them in any way with a USB cable!

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[Rusty2009]

Just run it up the pillar then at top go towards to the widescreen and tuck it behind the airbag you'll see some other wires go behind them and then feed back towards headlining and then to your cam


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[sheppy1]

Got ya! Think I was looking to run it right to the back and up again rather than up the black A pillar nest the dash vent if you know what I mean... Which is why I was thinking it would be a ball ache! Ha.

So would the airbag no trigger with yanking and pulling things near it?

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[Rusty2009]

Just be careful I've not set mine off.

[tucpal]

They won't go off with out a signal from the sensors just don't obstruct it place the wires behind it

[sheppy1]

I'm still struggling to get this pillar cover off so I can feed the wire behind it! Have had a few goes at tugging and prying at it now but it won't budge! Doesn't even feel like it would ever want to move!

Just to check, this is the cover I need to remove isn't it to feed the wire from the glove compartment to the headlining?



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[Rusty2009]

yes that's the pillar it will be really stiff the 1st time you pull it off.

[sheppy1]

Okay thanks, is it best to pull it downwards from where the window is or upwards from where the door is or just right outwards all at once? Not sure if it hinges on any side or anything like that

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[tucpal]

I could not pull it off completely when I ran I wire behind it but just enough to do it

[sheppy1]

Damn... This bit is harder than the wiring up and fitting of the glove compartment extra socket! Haha. Have a new dash cam coming tomorrow and really wanna get this wiring down by then!

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[Rusty2009]

Just pull the top off (where it meets the roof lining) when you pull it pull it out towards the drivers side.

[sheppy1]

Just pull the top off (where it meets the roof lining) when you pull it pull it out towards the drivers side.

Cheers mate! So you were able to get yours all the way off then were you?

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[Rusty2009]

didn't try to get it all the way off just enough to run the wire/s in.

[bhalay207]

Just do as most do when removing a panel.... Yank it and pray the clips don't break Haha.

On a serious note, I would pull from the top downward towards the interior of the car

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[sheppy1]

Hahaha thanks guys! That's my usual approach and it just worked but me and the Mrs have spent over an hour trying to reach the cable after its been fed down the pillar... Tried everything to get to the usb cable behind the glove box/bottom of the pillar and we just can't reach it! I've lost a layer of skin up my arm and bruised my hand, wrist and arm trying to get at it!!

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[Jj0063]

You don't need to remove it at all, I've never removed a pillar trim to fit these.

You just need to pull the black rubber weather trim back and tuck the power lead under the pillar trim with a trim tool or clean screwdriver!

You're making more work for yourself, this could have all been done in less than 30 mins!

Once you've got it tucked behind the pillar trim, pull the trim off which is on the end of the dash, you can then feed the wire behind the glove box. Then refit the glovebox & it's done.

[Rusty2009]

The reason I pulled the A-pillar trim off is so I could hook the cable behind the factory wiring that is there and thus stop it being an issue if the roof air-bag ever went off.