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Let's get the forum buzzing again... (March 25, 2022)x
(19:th-Jun-2015, 16:21:22)Rusty2009 Wrote: Well my little Sub arrived today not sure I would class it an under seat sub tho.
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That's pretty big for underseat! Should give you more than enough Bass, the 250w setup I have is more than enough but maybe I'm getting old.
That's just going too far lol but does look nice.
I can't stand these cars with their music at full volume and making the ground vibrate, I don't what to listen to half the rubbish they play I can't understand half of it.
I don't mind it loud on the motorway or dual carriage way where I'm not disturbing anyone but round town it has to be quite.
I've done this on my CD500 now, all in and working.
Just for reference as I might of been being thick but I struggled wit the diagram/colours being different to the car.. This is as per the diagram in the OP but with wire colours of the car loom..
Right front speaker: Yellow (+) Black/Yellow (-)
Left front speaker: Blue (+) Black/Brown (-)
Right rear speaker: White (+) Black/Blue(-)
Left rear speaker: Green (+) Black/Green (-)
Also what should I do run the sub from the amp or the head unit?
I only have small amp which is full from the front and rear door speakers so if I run the sub off the amp I'll have to put the rear speakers back to the HU.
You need to run a speak wire from those two outputs (They unscrew and there'll be a hole to push wire through, for you then to screw down again) run that to the amp.
RCA's into the amp.
You can't run a sub without an amp. A sub needs to be amplified.
Quick question
In this feed why was only the rears connected? Is there another how to for the full set up. And how can you tell if yours is the cd400 etc.
(15:th-Feb-2015, 13:02:32)tucpal Wrote: There is a plug and play option out there for this but it is a bit pricey
at around the £100 mark from Germany.
They have CD400 and NAV500,600,800 options
and as you can see they come with the speaker wires and just plug and play
and is a better option then splicing the wires into the old connector.
Is this for an amp or could it be used for an active subwoofer
Here you go, quick answer is it gives you Rca port to put a cable in
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This package includes the cable harness is to be able to connect an amplifier to the factory radio. The advantage of this harness is that you have to put it only on the radio. The wiring harness provides the connection of RCA cables as well as the direct connection of the speakers. Also, the remote signal is equal to co-generated. That is, it must be taken only the two cables for mass and the positive pole. Installation options: It can be installed in all vehicles in connection with: CD300 CD400 CD400 + Installation service: We offer for all our products to free installation in 42389 Wuppertal. Please suggest an appointment with us.
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Hi All. New here. Great forum. Any help appreciated!
I have updated my Navi 600 successfully to v2.08. I now have 3D maps but the themes are the standard ones and cannot get the red theme. Anyoone upgraded and experienced similar or point me in the direction of what i am doing wrong??
Thanks for the response. These were the instructions i initially used and all worked as per expected bar getting the red theme. I have since reflashed the system at least 5 times with superceding software. My satnav is now on m14 whereas the screensots in the post are m12.
It's got me stumped as the theme has never changed on any of the upgrades but i have everything else - 3D maps, logbook etc!
(8:th-May-2016, 23:03:21)Bruno Neri Wrote: Does it sound good? What do u think about under seat sub? Should I replace the door speakers?
I like it it's made a massive difference and having better quality door speakers has also helped. The only down side is it's not really under-seat SUB it's too big for that so it lives in the boot.
Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, @DC_ELiTE did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.
(21:st-May-2016, 07:24:28)Rusty2009 Wrote: Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, @DC_ELiTE did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.
Yea defo do not do this, you will end up driving along and the sub cuts out, not fun. Thanks again Rusty for doing that when I was down last!
(21:st-May-2016, 07:24:28)Rusty2009 Wrote: Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, @DC_ELiTE did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.
Yea defo do not do this, you will end up driving along and the sub cuts out, not fun. Thanks again Rusty for doing that when I was down last!
All done. Not a bad job really, biggest problem I've got now is the sub and amp aren't the biggest and to me isn't loud/chavvy enough haha, I want more, best get saving
I dream of a better tomorrow, where chickens can cross the road and not be questioned about their motives.
Ok a few thoughts before buying the stuff needed to connect my amp (4ch Rockford Fosgate) . Connecting remote wire to the cigarette lighter terminal means that amp will be powered on when ignition is on. But what if I want to switch on the headunit with the ignition off or without the key in the ignition? Then the amp wont turn on and you wont hear anything even if the headunit is on. Also in case you re driving and you want to turn off the headunit, the amp will still be operating.
So it would be the best if there was a remote wire in the head unit. Checked the pinout above but cant figure out if there is a pin that corresponds to remote power (maybe pin 43?). Next option is to buy a High to Low Level converter with remote power control. For example: http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLVHL70/2-C...te-Turn-On
But this needs to be connected to 12V constant power and ground. Checking the pinout, pin 44 is for 12V constant power and pin 38 is for ground. Am I right?
So should I prefer the converter with remote wire or dont bother at all and connect remote wire to lighter terminal?
Wondering where the center speaker is connected. Also does anyone know how each woofer and tweeter is connected to the headunit? I mean one cable leaves behind the hu and splits to woofer and tweeter? Or seperate cables leave behind the hu for each woofer and tweeter?