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washer dead? pump

Washer pump dead?
#1
Hi guys.
Few weeks back washer pump stopped working.
Took out fuse, cleaned t and put back in. Pump worked.
It's died again, removed fuse, cleaned it and put back in. This time no pump.
I've used one of the spares to see if the fuse was knackered but same thing.
No noise from the pump.

Anyone got any ideas I can look at? I'm no mechanic mind but am happy to give anything a go


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#2
Could try supply 12v direct to the pump it's hidden behind the wheel liner pass side


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Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#3
Just tried a new fuse and still dead. Easy to access? Assuming wheel will have to come off


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#4
Yeah wheel off and liner off


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Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#5
Could I connect jump leads to some wires then to the pump? Both love and negative wires to put on the pump terminals or do I connect negative to Earth on the car?


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#6
Have a look at the attached mate it will help you.


Attached Files
  Washer Malfunction - Hatchback, Wagon.pdf (Size: 86.87 KB / Downloads: 24)
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#7
Hi
If the front washers are working then the pump is ok as the body control module simply reverses the pump to send the water to the rear wash. The relays for this are in the engine fuse box and unfortunately are not replaceable . Which fuse did you remove and from where?
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#8
I remove the 10amp from number 40 in the engine bay
Theres no noise from the pump

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#9
So there is nothing happening at the pump when any wash function is pressed. Fuse 40 appears to be correct, have you inspected the fuse holder connections in the fuse box?
With your fuse box lid off ,ignition on and engine preferably not running, have someone operate the washer functions and you listen for relay clicks in the fuse box. If you hear clicks this will prove the control circuit is ok.
Check fuses 9 & 10 as these are power supplies to the body control module.
After that you will need a multimeter to follow the fault guide already posted.
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#10
Thanks Steve, I'll have a look at these in the morning


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#11
Steve don't mean fuses 23 & 24 in the fuse box in the glove box? Just got round to checking and I can hear clicks when the stalk is pulled so this is pointing towards the pump ?


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#12
(11:th-Feb-2016, 10:10:19)richje100 Wrote: Steve don't mean fuses 23 & 24 in the fuse box in the glove box? Just got round to checking and I can hear clicks when the stalk is pulled so this is pointing towards the pump ?


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Yes you are correct with 23 & 24 in the glove box, don't know where I got 9 & 10 from.
The fact you are hearing relays clicking when stalk pushed and pulled proves the control circuit by the body control module seems ok. So no need to check those fuses.
You will have to prove the pump is ok and that will mean accessing it under the wheel arch
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#13
Cheers. For the sake of £8 I bought a new pump. Didn't want to take it all off , find out the pumps knackered, put it all back together etc......


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#14
(12:th-Feb-2016, 20:03:09)richje100 Wrote: Cheers. For the sake of £8 I bought a new pump. Didn't want to take it all off , find out the pumps knackered, put it all back together etc......


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That is quite cheap ,is it a used one?
When you get at the reservoir and pump don't remove the old pump from the tank, disconnect it electrically and connect your new one to the plug and see if it works.
Then replace if it works . On the Astra h you could access the reservoir from under the car without removing any trim, through a gap in between the bumper and wheel arch liner. Looking at a picture of the underneath of the j It looks similar to the h in that area. If not, it's a case of wheel liner off,quite easy to do, push the centres out of the plastic rivets out to remove them and there are a few screws also.

(13:th-Feb-2016, 10:58:01)Steve64 Wrote:
(12:th-Feb-2016, 20:03:09)richje100 Wrote: Cheers. For the sake of £8 I bought a new pump. Didn't want to take it all off , find out the pumps knackered, put it all back together etc......


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That is quite cheap ,is it a used one?
When you get at the reservoir and pump don't remove the old pump from the tank, disconnect it electrically and connect your new one to the plug and see if it works.
Then replace if it works . On the Astra h you could access the reservoir from under the car without removing any trim, through a gap in between the bumper and wheel arch liner. Looking at a picture of the underneath of the j It looks similar to the h in that area. If not, it's a case of wheel liner off, quite easy to do, push the centres out of the plastic rivets to remove them and there are a few screws also.
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#15
Cheers Steve. No brand new from my local car part place fast parts. Another place had them for £12


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#16
Update guys, took wheel off, there's no clips for the wheel arch lining just hex screws. Took out the pump and the one I bought has a square connector and the vx one is oval shaped.
Tried another spares place and they have same square one. Went to vx and for £18 incl club discount fitted in minutes.
Thanks for ur help guys I now have a clean rear window!!


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#17
glad you got it sorted out
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#18
Hi
Glad it was an easy fix.
Thought £8 was a bit cheap for the pump but £18 still seems reasonable to me for a genuine vx one
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#19
I rang another motor factors took my reg down and said it the same pump unit. Strange!!


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