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to pulls side car one

Car pulls to one side
#1
I have recently bought a 2013 Astra Elite 1.6 (1st Registered December 2013), it was 9 months old when I purchased it with only 2,600 miles on the clock. The car drifts to the nearside and the steering wheel is off centred to the right. The car has been back to the dealership x3 times and I am told the wheel alignment is spot on. I am also told as the car has 18ins wheels fitted (factory fitted), that is the reason for the drift to the nearside - all Astra's with 18ins or 19ins wheels drift to nearside! I contacted Vauxhall and the car has been inspected/driven by a Technical man. He has stated there is no problem with the car and it 'drives as it would be expected from the factory'. Obviously, I am not happy with the situation and would welcome some advice from anyone who has experienced this problem please. A new'ish car like this should not, in my opinion, drift to the nearside. Any help would be appreciated.
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#2
Hi Paul and welcome to vxoc.

I have moved your post into its own thread into an area where it's more fitting.

no your car should not pull to one side, I trust you have tested it a flat straight length of road?

if the steering wheel is off is sounds like it's been taken off and not put back on right or there could be damage somewhere.

i would advise you have it checked by an independent garage and get a report done (I this will cost a few pounds which won't see back).

Ive upgraded from 17 to 19 and it drives in a straight line when I take my hands off the wheel.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#3
The Vauxhall Technical Field Manager who inspected my car and took it for a drive, said he could not find a fault! I had demonstrated to him that even on an adverse camber road (running from left to right) the car still drifted to the nearside. I have been driving for 48years, I am not a novice driver, and know there is a definite problem. I do not think a car, no matter what size wheels it is fitted with, should drift like this one does. It was also stated that with the gearbox being on the nearside and with a shorter drive shaft on that side, this all adds to the drift problem.
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#4
[MENTION=48]Kevin[/MENTION] will be best to offer to advise on this, I'm sure he'll be along soon.


Sent from my iPhone 5c using Tapatalk.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#5
I seem to remember someone having a similar problem and getting no were with the dealers is the car pulling to one side when braking are you feeling any pulling from the steering wheel when driving is the steering wheel center and do all the tyres have the same psi and they are also telling you porky pies with regards to wheel size having any effect and also the camba is not adjustable On the j it would also be best to get the tracking checked at your local tyre shop just to be sure and get a local garage to give it a check over also
but i am guessing if the steering wheel is not where it should be this will be the issue

i will move this thread to common problems for reference
but keep it updated thanks
[Image: DSC03659_zpssmtodvyc.jpg]
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#6
I've got 20inch wheels on mine and it drives as straight as the Elite I had before hand which had 17's As others have said I'd get it in at either another dealer or a local tyre place.
[Image: johnl_zps418f4568.jpg]
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#7
Interesting. Don't shoot me here, but you do get the odd car that will always drift slightly, no matter if others of the same breed don't. It might be something you have to live with!

Back to problem in hand, is it a pull or a drift?

Check all tyre pressures, if the tyres are not directional, switch the front wheels side to side. that can fix most issues.

Then have the wheel alignment set up. The wheel should be central. On some cars (talking in general, not astra specific) if the wheel is off centre, the car will tend to try and drive to get the wheel straight, which ties in nicely with your fault (right hand down, steers to left)

If it is still not ok after that, get the steering angle sensor calibrated. Hopefully after that, all should be fine. If not, you might just have to live with it!

Vauxhall saying the driveshafts causing it is rubbish, if it does it without and power on, then its rubbish. They did away with torque steer ages ago as the 2 shafts are technically the same length due to the fitment of an intermediate shaft on the offside, meaning the part of the shafts that angle down to the wheels are both the same length. Putting that aside, front wheel drives used to pull to the offside under load anyway!

Good luck.

PS, choose your tyre place carefully for wheel alignment. There are loads that don't have a clue. Best places for alignment are a good bodyshop.
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#8
Kevin Wrote:PS, choose your tyre place carefully for wheel alignment. There are loads that don't have a clue. Best places for alignment are a good bodyshop.

Got to agree with that Kevin I took my old veccy into National tyres for them to sort the alignment out next day the power steering went was told they didn't unclip the pipe a nice £400 bill to fix very annoyed as I had the car up for sale now I only use Bathwick tyres
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
Reply
#9
Thanks for all that KEVIN, all taken on board. It is what I would term a drift to nearside, it doesn't tug. Tyre pressures are spot on, always very specific with them - 32psi all round. As for swapping front tyres side to side, not sure the dealership did that, certainly front to back though with no difference. As for them being 'directional' not sure, they are Bridgestone Potenza 225/45 R18. Who can I get to calibrate the steering angle sensor, would a motor engineer (non Vauxhall dealership) be able to do it? I understand Quick-Fit have an all singing, all dancing wheel alignment machine, would you trust them?

I called in at another Vauxhall dealership yesterday and spoke to the Service Manager. He told me ALL Astras drift to nearside to a certain degree as they are 'camber sensitive', he wouldn't consider it a problem, only if it tugged hard!

It is all well and good these Vauxhall people saying there is not a problem, but it is ME that is driving the car. I am very disappointed with the drive. When the steering wheel is centred (the bar straight across) the car drifts off to the nearside.

Thanks to all who have contributed posts to this thread, it is appreciated! Thank you all very much.
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#10
Paul A Wrote:Who can I get to calibrate the steering angle sensor, would a motor engineer (non Vauxhall dealership) be able to do it? I understand Quick-Fit have an all singing, all dancing wheel alignment machine, would you trust them?

Most garages with some form of diagnostic equipment should have the function to recalibrate the sensor.

Regarding the all singing and dancing wheel alignment machine. Great if the operator knows what they are doing and how to use it. If not, then no matter how good the machine is, then it's deemed useless! I have seen good and bad results from these places.

You say when the cars wheel is straight that it will drift, does it not drift unless you do that?
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#11
The problem may well be the psi being at 32 psi or the so called comfort setting that is really not the best psi for handling or mpg I also found out that 32 psi can make the car sort of feel like it does not behave to well on the road so try the 39 psi for the Eco recommended setting and the car will feel much better and your mpg will improve also everyone on here will ether have 36 minimum or eco 39 psi and that will give a much better result on the road I always use the 39 psi I am not surprised you are having issues with 32 psi try it anyway and see what happens.
[Image: DSC03659_zpssmtodvyc.jpg]
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#12
I run 36 front and 42 rear but I'm on 19's with a 2.0CDTI.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#13
I run 39 all round on 19s
Using Tapatalk
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#14
On a flat road Kevin, with no great power on, the car drifts off to the nearside and the steering wheel self-centres, the steering wheel has to be given a little right hand lock to compensate and keep the car running straight. What I am saying is, if I hold the steering wheel so the centre bar is straight across, it obviously will run off to the nearside, it has to have that bit of right lock on the steering wheel to keep the straight course.

I will try the tyres at the greater pressures you kind people have recommended and see if it makes a difference. I am willing to try whatever, just to get the problem resolved. I am taking on board everything you have all said, thank you so much!

I just find it very strange that the Vauxhall dealerships and the Technical Field Manager don't seem to accept there is a problem, when obviously there is. The comments I got from the Service Manager at one dealership that the 18ins wheels are not the problem, contradicts the other dealership and the Vauxhall man!
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#15
Put tyre pressures up to 39psi all round and will leave it at that to check on MPG. The vehicle still drifts to the nearside. I have someone in mind to get the alignment checked out, a body shop is offering me 4 wheel lazer alignment for £60, so think I will accept that and just see IF it is out and what happens.
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#16
worth getting it done
[Image: DSC03659_zpssmtodvyc.jpg]
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#17
[Image: vx.o.c.jpeg]

I don't know if this will help you.

Vehicle Leads/Pulls


Vehicle Leads/Pulls
[TR]
[TD]Step[/TD]
[TD]Action[/TD]
[TD]Yes[/TD]
[TD]No[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]DEFINITION: At a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, lead/pull is the amount of effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the vehicle straight path.

Note: Vehicles will tend to lead/pull in the direction of the road slope as part of normal operation.
[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]1[/TD]
[TD]Did you review the General Description and perform the visual/physical inspections?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 2[/TD]
[TD]Go to Symptoms - Suspension General Diagnosis [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]2[/TD]
[TD]Road test the vehicle in order to verify the complaint.

Does the vehicle operate normally?[/TD]
[TD]System OK[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 3[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]3[/TD]
[TD]Inspect the tire/wheel assemblies for:

• Correct tire pressure-Refer to the tire placard.

• Correct tire size-Refer to the tire placard.

• Abnormal tire wear or damage.

Did you find and correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 9[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]4[/TD]
[TD]Perform the Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction .

Did you find and correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 9[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]5[/TD]
[TD]Inspect and correct/adjust the suspension and steering systems for:

Excessively worn, loose, or damaged components.

Did you find and correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 9[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 6[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6[/TD]
[TD]Inspect the brake system for brake drag. With the vehicle suspended on a hoist, brake drag can be identified by rotating each wheel several times and observing whether more force is needed to rotate the left wheel or the right wheel.

Did you find and correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 9[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 7[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]7[/TD]
[TD]Inspect the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary. Refer to Wheel Alignment Measurement .

Did you correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 9[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 8[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]8[/TD]
[TD]Inspect the steering gear for unequal effort. The vehicle must be suspended on a hoist, the engine running, and the transmission in park or neutral. Grasp the tire assembly and manually simulate a turn from the left of center and the right of center observing whether more force is needed to turn to the left or to the right. If this condition exists, replace the steering gear.

Did you correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]System OK[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 3[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]9[/TD]
[TD]Operate the vehicle in order to verify the repair.

Did you correct the condition?[/TD]
[TD]System OK[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 3[/TD]
[/TR]


Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction

Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction
[TR]
[TD]Step[/TD]
[TD]Action[/TD]
[TD]Yes[/TD]
[TD]No[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]DEFINITION: Lead/pull is the deviation of the vehicle from a straight path on a level road with no pressure on the steering wheel.[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]1[/TD]
[TD]Did you perform the Vehicle Leads/Pull diagnostic table?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 2[/TD]
[TD]Go to Vehicle Leads/Pulls [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]2[/TD]
[TD]Road test the vehicle to verify the complaint. Select a smooth level surface to perform the test.

Does the condition exist?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 3[/TD]
[TD]System OK[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]3[/TD]
[TD]1. Cross-switch the left front tire/wheel assembly with the left rear tire/wheel assembly. Refer to . Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation

2. Road test the vehicle on a smooth level surface.

Does the vehicle still lead/pull?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 4[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]4[/TD]
[TD]1. Cross-switch the right front tire/wheel assembly with the right rear tire/wheel assembly. Refer to . Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.

2. Road test the vehicle on a smooth level surface.

Does the vehicle still lead/pull?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Wheel Alignment Measurement [/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 6[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]5[/TD]
[TD]Replace the left rear tire.

Is the repair complete?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 7[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6[/TD]
[TD]Replace the right rear tire.

Is the repair complete?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 7[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]7[/TD]
[TD]Verify proper vehicle operation.

Does the original condition still exist?[/TD]
[TD]Go to Step 1[/TD]
[TD]System OK[/TD]
[/TR]


Wheel Alignment Measurement

Steering and vibration complaints are not always the result of improper alignment. One possible cause is wheel and tire imbalance. Another possibility is tire lead due to worn or improperly manufactured tires. Lead/pull is defined as follows: At a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, lead/pull is the amount of effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the vehicle's straight path. Lead is the vehicle deviation from a straight path on a level road without pressure on the steering wheel.
Before performing any adjustment affecting wheel alignment, perform the following inspections and adjustments in order to ensure correct alignment readings:

• Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear.

• Inspect the runout of the wheels and the tires.

• Inspect the wheel bearings for backlash and excessive play. Refer to Suspension Strut and Shock Absorber Testing - On Vehicle.

• Inspect the ball joints for looseness or wear.

• Inspect the tie rod ends for looseness or wear.

• Inspect the control arms and stabilizer shaft for looseness or wear.

• Inspect the steering gear for looseness at the frame.

• Inspect the struts/shock absorbers for wear, leaks, and any noticeable noises. Refer to Suspension Strut and Shock Absorber Testing - On Vehicle.

• Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components.

• Inspect the fuel level. The fuel tank should be full or the vehicle should have a compensating load added.

Give consideration to excess loads, such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If normally carried in the vehicle, these items should remain in the vehicle during alignment adjustments. Give consideration also to the condition of the equipment being used for the alignment. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment settings. However, if the setting exceeds the service allowable specifications, correct the alignment to the service preferred specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:

• 1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions.

• 2. Jounce the front and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment.

• 3. Measure the alignment angles and record the readings.

Note:
• Record the "Before" and "After" alignment measurements.

• When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front alignment angles.


• 4. Adjust alignment angles to vehicle specification, if necessary. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications .[/TD]

[Image: vx.o.c.jpeg]
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
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#18
Just to update you all on this matter. I had 4 wheel alignment carried out on my car last Thursday by a professional body shop in Hull, one of the best in the area. Well worth the cost to me of £45.00. The steering wheel has been centred and adjustment made to the Partial Toe (as per the print out). The guy there pointed out to me that the Caster is out by a significant degree. I am not sure how I can post the print out on this forum so you can see the figures. I understand the Caster is the third most important alignment angle and it can cause a vehicle to drift or lead to one side (exactly what my complaint was all about). However, the vehicle handles much better now. there is a slight drift to nearside but nothing to what it was. I am considering swapping front wheels nearside to offside now, just to see IF that makes any difference. It is interesting to note that the print out supplied to me by Vauxhall (in the Technical Field Managers report) didn't show Caster - the squares were blank - no figures in place. I am told by the guy at the body shop, replacement of the wishbones may correct the Caster problem, any ideas you chaps out there? Can the Caster
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#19
angle be adjusted any other way? Further help or comments on this would be very much appreciated, thank you.
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#20
not really adjustable but you could add some camber bolts to get the front wheels
100% aligned have a read of this

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-Negative-camber

but glad your getting improvements
[Image: DSC03659_zpssmtodvyc.jpg]
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#21
Glad your getting somewhere at last, I hope you are going to take make a few photo copies and send one the VX customer care and also take a copy into the dealership.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
Astra-J 2.0 CDTI S/S
Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
I can do programming and retrofits using genuine GM MDI and Dealer software.
Reply
#22
Already sent an e-mail and copy of the alignment print out to the Executive Support Manager at Vauxhall, she has passed it to the Technical Field Manager (who carried out the review of my vehicle on site). Awaiting a reply! I will let you know the outcome. Just why should I have had to do this though, was told by Vauxhall everything was 'A OK' with the car! After being a loyal Vauxhall customer for some 30 odd years I think it is disgusting.
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