Is this wear on the rod and crank bearings normal?

[i.rosca]

Given that I have a 2.0CDTI engine (A20DTH) and that last winter I had the low oil pressure light pop up for a second or so when starting the engine in the morning, I thought I should replace the O ring on the oil pickup from the sump. 

After taking the sump off and removing the O ring I did notice that it was stiff and brittle and I replaced it. Since the O ring was so brittle I decided to take a couple of bearings off and inspect them and the crank. I've uploaded some images.

Can someone please take a look at the images and based on the damage advise what I should do? Thanks!

[Rusty2009]

@vocky any ideas mate?

[Jpbroad1970]

In my opinion crank looks OK but bearings need changing but I'm not a mechanic.

[i.rosca]

@Jpbroad1970 thanks. I thought so the same. 

I actually asked a mechanic about changing just the bearings but he said that if I changed just the bearings I would have to machine the crank because "the crank will not fit in the new bearings". To my relatively untrained mind that smells like he's trying to get more money off of me. If I use the same thickness bearings how can it not fit, it's not as if the wear enlarged the diameter of the crank, quite the opposite I would say. 

Another mechanic told me to change the whole engine and a third mechanic told me that I could probably drive it for a couple of years if the o ring won't fail or if it gets replaced in time so as to avoid more excessive wear. He also advised me to sell it, though. With all these mechanics and their opinions, I don't really know what to do, hence why I'm asking here.

[andyp]

Given that I have a 2.0CDTI engine (A20DTH) and that last winter I had the low oil pressure light pop up for a second or so when starting the engine in the morning, I thought I should replace the O ring on the oil pickup from the sump. 

After taking the sump off and removing the O ring I did notice that it was stiff and brittle and I replaced it. Since the O ring was so brittle I decided to take a couple of bearings off and inspect them and the crank. I've uploaded some images.

Can someone please take a look at the images and based on the damage advise what I should do? Thanks!

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Hi
Run your finger nail across the crank bearing surface if you can not feel any steps its ok replace bearings with new stamped on the non mating surface ie the side not in contact with the crank will be the size marked std or +10 etc remember to coat new bearings with assembly lube when fitting be very clean and torque up bearing caps to correct setting
also fit new sump gaskets etc
hope this helps
andy

[i.rosca]

Hi, thanks for the info. Before I commit to removing the engine from the car and the crank from the engine, or at least the latter, is there any chance I could do this with the engine and crank and pistons in place, ie pushing on the straight end of the bearing to rotate the notched part out and pull it away from the crank / rod ? Of course, all while applying liberal amounts of lube and keeping everything clean.

In the meantime, other opinions are welcomed. The more the better!

[andyp]

Hi, thanks for the info. Before I commit to removing the engine from the car and the crank from the engine, or at least the latter, is there any chance I could do this with the engine and crank and pistons in place, ie pushing on the straight end of the bearing to rotate the notched part out and pull it away from the crank / rod ? Of course, all while applying liberal amounts of lube and keeping everything clean.

In the meantime, other opinions are welcomed. The more the better!

HI
Frayed knot the crank is bolted to the flywheel

[Jpbroad1970]

Minimum head off but far easier with engine out. Although it's feasible through past knowledge it's only a short term fix. Depends how long you are keeping it for and how mechanical you are. There is a lot of labour involved at a garage. It's a difficult one to call as everyone is right really. A low mileage engine swap maybe best idea but again it's all relative to what you want or are willing to pay. I'm sure that's cleared none of it up but best I can throw in lol.

[i.rosca]

@Jpbroad1970 The risk with an engine swap is that I may get one with the same problem and in the end will cost me more. What I would ideally consider is a replacement crank and bearings but I can't find any that are new. 

Honestly, I plan on keeping it for as long as it runs but I didn't think that time would come so fast. Apart from this, I really can't justify replacing it. Besides, with the depreciation, I may end up spending more on getting a newer but equivalent car in terms of trim level and even performance. 

I suppose I have to decide what is more convenient for me. I probably shouldn't slap the oil pan back on it and drive till it fails. 

The consensus is that I must do somethin' about it, right?

[Jpbroad1970]

If you put it all back together as is and use it like someone said it could last a long time it might only last 6 months but I suppose what that would do is give you time to source the parts you want. It's a risk I suppose. How many of us have checked our crank bearings, they may be the same as yours. If you hadn't removed con rod cap you would have just put it back together with new o ring and carried on driving. It's really your call. I think if it was me I would look at low mileage engine but that's me.

[i.rosca]

If you put it all back together as is and use it like someone said it could last a long time it might only last 6 months but I suppose what that would do is give you time to source the parts you want. It's a risk I suppose. How many of us have checked our crank bearings, they may be the same as yours. If you hadn't removed con rod cap you would have just put it back together with new o ring and carried on driving. It's really your call. I think if it was me I would look at low mileage engine but that's me.

I guess a low mileage engine is my second option but only if the seller would let me take apart his oil pan and caps so I can inspect the crank and bottom half bearings.

[Jpbroad1970]

As a guide vauxhall crank

55596141 CRANKSHAFT, ASSY. (NLS.- USE 55596141 6 14 215) £777.00

Should be number but done without reg so is only a guide

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https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CRANKS...%7Ciid%3A1

[i.rosca]

As a guide vauxhall crank

55596141 CRANKSHAFT, ASSY. (NLS.- USE 55596141 6 14 215) £777.00

Should be number but done without reg so is only a guide

---

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CRANKS...%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks for the numbers!

[vocky]

you can probably change them with the crank in the car, but it will be awkward.

The big end bearing in the photo does need changing, but the mains in your photo should be okay. Usually the big ends go before the mains.

[i.rosca]

you can probably change them with the crank in the car, but it will be awkward.

The big end bearing in the photo does need changing, but the mains in your photo should be okay. Usually the big ends go before the mains.

Thanks! If I start changing 'em, I'll change 'em all. 

I know it'll be awkward but, to my mind, it beats having to tear down the engine bay. Anyhow, I think I'll change all the bearings and maybe the crankshaft as well. So engine out it is, I suppose.