VXOC Astra-J/GTC

(15:th-Aug-2017, 10:07:00)robinsonharry96 Wrote: [ -> ]Any chance someone could post a picture on wiring up the rca converter to the head unit loom? cd400 astra gtc.

All the images at the start of this thread have disappeared!

I've sent an email to the person who did the how-to asking if they would send the pic's so I can I add them to the server, I've not yet had a reply.

hi guys ive been thinking of installing a sub i have never done it before so im a bit confused i spoke with halfords and they said thay i would lose my rear speakers is there a simple way around this i have a navi 650 headunit?

thanks guys

(24:th-Nov-2017, 12:31:52)rfoster88 Wrote: [ -> ]hi guys ive been thinking of installing a sub i have never done it before so im a bit confused i spoke with halfords and they said thay i would lose my rear speakers is there a simple way around this i have a navi 650 headunit?

thanks guys

I think you need to go back to Halfords and tell them to stop taking rubbish. Splice into rear speaker outputs and use HIGH TO LOW LINE LEVEL CABLE ADAPTER & RCA cables.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPEAKER-TO-RC...4d25eccbf7

You cold splice into them at the rear doors if you wanted.

Thank you rusty I'll look into it

Did you manage to get hold of the images that shows you how to install the sub

Hi could someone possibly post the pictures of the wiring loom and where/what wires go from the RCA to the loom? I cant seem to be able to view the ones posted in the original post. Many thanks

(27:th-Nov-2017, 18:32:59)kirsty2011 Wrote: [ -> ]Hi could someone possibly post the pictures of the wiring loom and where/what wires go from the RCA to the loom? I cant seem to be able to view the ones posted in the original post. Many thanks

Unfortunately none of us can view the images and we don't have access to the images to re-upload them.
I have contacted the original poster but without success.

Hoping when someone else does it they will make a new how-to.

(28:th-Nov-2017, 08:17:26)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(27:th-Nov-2017, 18:32:59)kirsty2011 Wrote: [ -> ]Hi could someone possibly post the pictures of the wiring loom and where/what wires go from the RCA to the loom? I cant seem to be able to view the ones posted in the original post. Many thanks

Unfortunately none of us can view the images and we don't have access to the images to re-upload them.
I have contacted the original poster but without success.

Hoping when someone else does it they will make a new how-to.

Thank you

i done this in my astra j gtc and it turns on and off by its self worked fine when fitter but seems to go haywire its self

I have an Astra J 2013 cd400, can I connect the amp remote wire to pin 43? Or do I have to connect to cigarette lighter?
Any help would be appreciated thanks

For amp remote wire could i connect to pin 43? Or should i connect to cigarette lighter?
Astra j 2013 cd400

Yes Pin43.

(10:th-Dec-2019, 16:01:46)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]For amp remote wire could i connect to pin 43? Or should i connect to cigarette lighter?
Astra j 2013 cd400

Thanks Rusty, I wonder why the OP did not connect to Pin43? He said he used the cigarette lighter
Also i am trying to find a speaker wiring diagram for the cd400, the op’s photos aren’t very clear, can you please tell me where i put the 4 wires from the converter?

(11:th-Dec-2019, 07:45:54)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Yes Pin43.

Thanks Rusty, I wonder why the OP did not connect to Pin43? He said he used the cigarette lighter

Also i am trying to find a speaker wiring diagram for the cd400, the op’s photos aren’t very clear, can you please tell me where i put the 4 wires from the converter?

Speaker wires go into the 4 coloured pins in this pic.



Pin 33 = RED = Right Rear Speaker Signal (-) (Factory colour = Blue/Black)
Pin 34 = Orange = Left Rear Speaker Signal (-) (Factory colour = Green/Black)
Pin 41 = Green = Right Rear Speaker (+) (Factory colour = White)
Pin 42 = Pink = Left Rear Speaker (+) (Factory colour = Green)

Please take note the factory colour can change and is only given as a guide.

(12:th-Dec-2019, 08:42:43)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Speaker wires go into the 4 coloured pins in this pic.



Pin 33 = RED = Right Rear Speaker Signal (-) (Factory colour = Blue/Black)
Pin 34 = Orange = Left Rear Speaker Signal (-) (Factory colour = Green/Black)
Pin 41 = Green = Right Rear Speaker (+) (Factory colour = White)
Pin 42 = Pink = Left Rear Speaker (+) (Factory colour = Green)

Please take note the factory colour can change and is only given as a guide.

Thanks Rusty, it says Red, Orange, Green ,Pink, is that the colours of the converter wires?
As i can see the wires from converters are Red, Green, Black, White?

No it's not the colour of converter wires these are just colours which the OP used to highlight the pins/wires on the plug.

Have got a link the converter you have & I'll have a look for you.

(12:th-Dec-2019, 13:27:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]No it's not the colour of converter wires these are just colours which the OP used to highlight the pins/wires on the plug.

Have got a link the converter you have & I'll have a look for you.

This is the converter I bought, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-RCA-Line-Ou...313c18f977

I really appreciate your help Rusty!
I plan to install the subwoofer this weekend.

Ok so I'll list as colours from the converter to the radio pin.

Green to Pin 42 (Pink highlight)
Grey to Pin 41 (Green highlight)
Brown to Pin 34 (Orange highlight)
Black to Pin 33 (RED highlight)

Hope that makes sense.

(12:th-Dec-2019, 13:55:11)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Ok so I'll list as colours from the converter to the radio pin.

Green to Pin 42 (Pink highlight)
Grey to Pin 41 (Green highlight)
Brown to Pin 34 (Orange highlight)
Black to Pin 33 (RED highlight)

Hope that makes sense.

You’re amazing! Thank you very much!

(13:th-May-2015, 17:13:56)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks mate

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.

(13:th-May-2015, 17:52:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.

Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

(14:th-Dec-2019, 20:19:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13:th-May-2015, 17:13:56)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks mate

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.

(13:th-May-2015, 17:52:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.

Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

(14:th-Dec-2019, 21:56:31)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 20:19:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13:th-May-2015, 17:13:56)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks mate

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.

(13:th-May-2015, 17:52:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.

Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

Thanks, incase i forget to turn radio off when i take key out it will still turn off won’t t it? Think takes a few seconds though....

(14:th-Dec-2019, 22:28:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 21:56:31)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 20:19:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13:th-May-2015, 17:13:56)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks mate

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.

(13:th-May-2015, 17:52:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.

Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

Thanks, incase i forget to turn radio off when i take key out it will still turn off won’t t it? Think takes a few seconds though....

Do you know I've never turned the radio on with key out (unless by accident) but I think it would only only turn off if you push the button again.
I know if you leave the the key in it will auto shut off after 30mins.
But it will always turn off when you remove the key.

Connecting remote cable to factory radio isn't a good idea. When removing key, radio doesn't completely shut off. It stays on (even if it seems the opposite) in order chimes to work. It completely shuts off after a minute or two when locking car. It also turns on when you unlock the car. That means that your amp will be running even if you turn off the engine and it will power on when you unlock the car. This wil eventually lead to beattery issues. Learned this the hard way. Had installed a DSP with auto sense function and was working as described above.

(15:th-Dec-2019, 09:00:34)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 22:28:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 21:56:31)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 20:19:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13:th-May-2015, 17:13:56)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks mate

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.

(13:th-May-2015, 17:52:59)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.

Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

Thanks, incase i forget to turn radio off when i take key out it will still turn off won’t t it? Think takes a few seconds though....

Do you know I've never turned the radio on with key out (unless by accident) but I think it would only only turn off if you push the button again.
I know if you leave the the key in it will auto shut off after 30mins.
But it will always turn off when you remove the key.

Thanks Rusty, Pin43 it is!

(15:th-Dec-2019, 13:09:45)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(15:th-Dec-2019, 09:00:34)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 22:28:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 21:56:31)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 20:19:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Rusty, would i best connect the remote to the cigarette lighter or to the Pin43?

Thanks

PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

Thanks, incase i forget to turn radio off when i take key out it will still turn off won’t t it? Think takes a few seconds though....

Do you know I've never turned the radio on with key out (unless by accident) but I think it would only only turn off if you push the button again.
I know if you leave the the key in it will auto shut off after 30mins.
But it will always turn off when you remove the key.

Thanks Rusty, Pin43 it is!

Finished wiring behind stereo, now car won’t start, error Service esp, service power steering. Help!

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(15:th-Dec-2019, 17:28:35)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(15:th-Dec-2019, 13:09:45)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(15:th-Dec-2019, 09:00:34)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 22:28:53)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]

(14:th-Dec-2019, 21:56:31)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]PIN 43 as it'll wake the amp with radio, I.E key out radio on AMP will still work.

Thanks, incase i forget to turn radio off when i take key out it will still turn off won’t t it? Think takes a few seconds though....

Do you know I've never turned the radio on with key out (unless by accident) but I think it would only only turn off if you push the button again.
I know if you leave the the key in it will auto shut off after 30mins.
But it will always turn off when you remove the key.

Thanks Rusty, Pin43 it is!

Finished wiring behind stereo, now car won’t start, error Service esp, service power steering. Help!

Battery had died, im a noob! Had interior light on for a bit!

I connected the remote wire to an on/off switch but didn’t measure properly so had to connect to cigarette lighter!
Thank you for all your help Rusty

Hi Rusty, all is good with the sub installed, the only this is the rear view mirror rattles very loudly and keeps moving downwards! Is there a solution to this? Maybe anti vibration rubber?

(5:th-Jan-2020, 01:48:50)Zed452 Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Rusty, all is good with the sub installed, the only this is the rear view mirror rattles very loudly and keeps moving downwards! Is there a solution to this? Maybe anti vibration rubber?

I guess your referring to mirror not the fixing plate? if so I would say possible mirror is worn.

Be quicker to replace can pick mirror up cheap on ebay.

Hello guys.

Little help. I take ALPINE SWE-815 with active amplifier. I will connect it to my CD400

I would like to take power from trunk on my tourer.
Where can i connect it? Also where i take remote for sub.
Which colors are wires from rear speakers (left and right)

Picture of cables from sub. All help appreciated.

(13:th-May-2020, 08:01:06)Dooks Wrote: [ -> ]Hello guys.

Little help. I take ALPINE SWE-815 with active amplifier. I will connect it to my CD400

I would like to take power from trunk on my tourer.
Where can i connect it? Also where i take remote for sub.
Which colors are wires from rear speakers (left and right)

Picture of cables from sub. All help appreciated.

Speaker wiring as per this.




Remote couple of options off the remote wire on the radio plug, or off the 12v socket (I'd do it off the radio).

Power what power does it need or what are the fuses installed there?

(19:th-Jun-2015, 17:20:14)Jj0063 Wrote: [ -> ]I've done this on my CD500 now, all in and working.

Just for reference as I might of been being thick but I struggled wit the diagram/colours being different to the car.. This is as per the diagram in the OP but with wire colours of the car loom..

Right front speaker: Yellow (+) Black/Yellow (-)
Left front speaker: Blue (+) Black/Brown (-)
Right rear speaker:  White (+) Black/Blue(-)
Left rear speaker:  Green (+) Black/Green (-)

Thank You

(18:th-May-2020, 11:11:39)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13:th-May-2020, 08:01:06)Dooks Wrote: [ -> ]Hello guys.

Little help. I take ALPINE SWE-815 with active amplifier. I will connect it to my CD400

I would like to take power from trunk on my tourer.
Where can i connect it? Also where i take remote for sub.
Which colors are wires from rear speakers (left and right)

Picture of cables from sub. All help appreciated.

Speaker wiring as per this.




Remote couple of options off the remote wire on the radio plug, or off the 12v socket (I'd do it off the radio).

Power what power does it need or what are the fuses installed there?

I manage to find everything what i needed. I used colors for speakers as was written above.
Power i else is taken from left side in boot of estate.
Picture in attach if someone will needed.

Hi all,
Thanks a lot for the guide! I've just got a sub/amp combo but need to convert the speakers to RCA connectors.
In haste, I've picked up one from halfords, but this one has earth, power and remote leads off of it too.
Does anyone know if I absolutely must use these extra cables or can I just use the speaker outputs to get the sub going?

Thanks in advance

I 've used in the past a cheap passive LOC (hi to low converter) with no power or remote inputs. Just speaker inputs. But I was not happy with the result. I have switched to an active LOC and the difference was night and day. I got more volume and more bass.
You can try using the speaker cables only but you 'll get the best results using it as an active(powered) device.
More info about LOCs here:
https://carsoundlab.com/best-line-out-converter/

Thanks DNT!
The only thing that worries me about the active LOC is the wiring up of it, I just have no idea.

Did you run a cable to it for 12v power direct from the battery or can you splice it from the 12v coming to the head unit? From what I've read once the LOC receives signal from the head unit i can use the remote out to power on the amp?

My main concern is the wiring for power to the LOC, I dont want to blow anything up after reading all sorts of rigging up for them on the web.

You should wire it just like you would wire your amplifier. But you ll use a thinner cable like a 1.5mm2 one for feeding it. 12v constant power from battery, acc power and negative/ground. In case your LOC has signal sensing capability, you won't need acc power.

Then use the LOC's remote output(if there is one) to the amp remote input. That way you ll avoid pops and clicks during switching on and off.

Great stuff, have just ordered some of that cable to run the LOCs power with the amps power through the bulk head, will just tape them both together. That remote pass through feature makes a lot of sense and is quite nifty if it'll avoid popping etc as you said.

Thanks again for your replies, really appreciate your help!