VXOC Astra-J/GTC

Full Version: How To Fit Sub To CD400 Head Unit
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Well my little Sub arrived today not sure I would class it an under seat sub tho.

[attachment=391]


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big seat then but still it looks good
For £40 & 500W I don't expect too much but just to have some bass would be good.
this is on the list after a few other mods but i will get around to this very soon
(12:th-Jun-2015, 18:30:09)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]I'm just going to buy a small 500w under seat Aqua sub as IMO the car is not a mobile disco machine.

Disco machine you say? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-LXJoJF1cU 

(19:th-Jun-2015, 16:21:22)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Well my little Sub arrived today not sure I would class it an under seat sub tho.

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That's pretty big for underseat! Should give you more than enough Bass, the 250w setup I have is more than enough but maybe I'm getting old.
(19:th-Jun-2015, 16:58:43)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]
(12:th-Jun-2015, 18:30:09)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]I'm just going to buy a small 500w under seat Aqua sub as IMO the car is not a mobile disco machine.

Disco machine you say? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-LXJoJF1cU 


(19:th-Jun-2015, 16:21:22)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Well my little Sub arrived today not sure I would class it an under seat sub tho.

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That's pretty big for underseat! Should give you more than enough Bass, the 250w setup I have is more than enough but maybe I'm getting old.

That's just going too far lol but does look nice.

I can't stand these cars with their music at full volume and making the ground vibrate, I don't what to listen to half the rubbish they play I can't understand half of it.

I don't mind it loud on the motorway or dual carriage way where I'm not disturbing anyone but round town it has to be quite.
I've done this on my CD500 now, all in and working.

Just for reference as I might of been being thick but I struggled wit the diagram/colours being different to the car.. This is as per the diagram in the OP but with wire colours of the car loom..

Right front speaker: Yellow (+) Black/Yellow (-)
Left front speaker: Blue (+) Black/Brown (-)
Right rear speaker: White (+) Black/Blue(-)
Left rear speaker: Green (+) Black/Green (-)
Colours do change I found that out when doing the AFL retrofit mate.
EDIT i've just realised what i've done lol
So does anybody know what connections I need for my sub?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231016738055?_...EBIDX%3AIT

RCA cables don't fit.

Also what should I do run the sub from the amp or the head unit?

I only have small amp which is full from the front and rear door speakers so if I run the sub off the amp I'll have to put the rear speakers back to the HU.

This is my AMP
http://kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/amp...ew=support

And HU
http://kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/nav...DNX9210BT/
Those aren't RCA connectors on your sub, lol.

You need to run a speak wire from those two outputs (They unscrew and there'll be a hole to push wire through, for you then to screw down again) run that to the amp.

RCA's into the amp.

You can't run a sub without an amp. A sub needs to be amplified.
Cool I found they unscrewed just thought there was like a connector that plugs in, never fitted a sub before.

The HU has an RCA amp Pre out.
All in fitted and working thanks to @Jj0063 for the help.

Rather than put the rears back through the head unit I hooked them up like so

[Image: speakers.jpg]

Wow the sound is so much better now alot crisper and clearer now.

The sub just fits under the flex floor at it's highest setting.
i sure that a few weeks back very good set up there
Quick question
In this feed why was only the rears connected? Is there another how to for the full set up. And how can you tell if yours is the cd400 etc.
I guess you would just do the same again but for the front.
Hi guy does anyone have full pinout for this radio please ?
rusty should have that
I'll get it tomorrow


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Pinout as promised

[Image: A11%20Radio%20X1.JPG]
(15:th-Feb-2015, 13:02:32)tucpal Wrote: [ -> ]There is a plug and play option out there for this but it is a bit pricey
at around the £100 mark from Germany.

[Image: plug-and-play-kabelbaum-endstufe-cd300-c...jbilfw.jpg]


They have CD400 and NAV500,600,800 options
and as you can see they come with the speaker wires and just plug and play
and is a better option then splicing the wires into the old connector.





Is this for an amp or could it be used for an active subwoofer
not to sure i found it from a german forum
sure it was for speaker wire replacement and a subwoofer
Here you go, quick answer is it gives you Rca port to put a cable in

...............

This package includes the cable harness is to be able to connect an amplifier to the factory radio. The advantage of this harness is that you have to put it only on the radio.  The wiring harness provides the connection of RCA cables as well as the direct connection of the speakers. Also, the remote signal is equal to co-generated. That is, it must be taken only the two cables for mass and the positive pole. Installation options: It can be installed in all vehicles in connection with:  CD300  CD400  CD400 + Installation service: We offer for all our products to free installation in 42389 Wuppertal. Please suggest an appointment with us.
.........



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thats the one cheers sure that will help
so is that a way of fitting a active subwoofer without hacking wires
Yes looks that way
Hi All. New here. Great forum. Any help appreciated!

I have updated my Navi 600 successfully to v2.08. I now have 3D maps but the themes are the standard ones and cannot get the red theme. Anyoone upgraded and experienced similar or point me in the direction of what i am doing wrong??
check this thread out you want theme change section

https://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-how...o-a-NAV900
(23:rd-Jan-2016, 19:18:23)tucpal Wrote: [ -> ]check this thread out you want theme change section

https://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-how...o-a-NAV900

Hi tucpal,

Thanks for the response.  These were the instructions i initially used and all worked as per expected bar getting the red theme.  I have since reflashed the system at least 5 times with superceding software.  My satnav is now on m14 whereas the screensots in the post are m12.

It's got me stumped as the theme has never changed on any of the upgrades but i have everything else - 3D maps, logbook etc!
ok i will reply in the sat nav section
Any information on how you ran your amp live cable from the batt to the boot ? Finding it difficult to find route threw engine bay.

Regards

Link
You need run down and under the coolant tank, there is a big rubber grommet down there with loads of wires.

Then you remove the kick panel on the passenger side & run it along there and into the boot.
Does it sound good? What do u think about under seat sub? Should I replace the door speakers?
(8:th-May-2016, 23:03:21)Bruno Neri Wrote: [ -> ]Does it sound good? What do u think about under seat sub? Should I replace the door speakers?

I like it it's made a massive difference and having better quality door speakers has also helped. The only down side is it's not really under-seat SUB it's too big for that so it lives in the boot.
Is the pin out in the OP the same for all modes? I've got the navi 600 and thinking of putting a sub in tomorrow just about to order some parts.
Speakers are the same yes mate


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thanks rusty, got the sub and amp ready, wiring kit and converter due to arrive tomorrow, any tips/anything i should be aware of?
Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.
(21:st-May-2016, 07:24:28)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.

Yea defo do not do this, you will end up driving along and the sub cuts out, not fun. Thanks again Rusty for doing that when I was down last!
(21:st-May-2016, 09:27:07)DC_ELiTE Wrote: [ -> ]
(21:st-May-2016, 07:24:28)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Only thing I can think of is don't push the wires in, did that and they came out so I did a proper splice job and heatshrink. unfold a paper clip or a small slothead and you can remove the pins from the connector to get the heatshrink over.

Yea defo do not do this, you will end up driving along and the sub cuts out, not fun. Thanks again Rusty for doing that when I was down last!

All done. Not a bad job really, biggest problem I've got now is the sub and amp aren't the biggest and to me isn't loud/chavvy enough haha, I want more, best get saving
Looking into a 4channel RCA so I can put all speakers to my amp.

Come across this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191869140831

I'll wire this directly into the radio plug and then run new wires from the amp to speakers wires behind the dash.


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(14:th-Dec-2015, 09:41:06)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]
Pinout as promised

[Image: A11%20Radio%20X1.jpg]

Does this apply to CD500 too?
Also does fitting an amp to factory unit lead to loss of warning sounds (seatbelt etc) ?
It applies to unless you have infinity sound system then its wired different.

No you won't loose any sounds.
Ok a few thoughts before buying the stuff needed to connect my amp (4ch Rockford Fosgate) . Connecting remote wire to the cigarette lighter terminal means that amp will be powered on when ignition is on. But what if  I want to switch on the headunit with the ignition off or without the key in the ignition? Then the amp wont turn on and you wont hear anything even if the headunit is on. Also in case  you re driving and you want to turn off the headunit, the amp will still be operating.

So it would be the best if there was a remote wire in the head unit. Checked the pinout above but cant figure out if there is a pin that corresponds to remote power (maybe pin 43?). Next option is to buy a High to Low Level converter with remote power control. For example: http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLVHL70/2-C...te-Turn-On

But this needs to be connected to 12V constant power and ground. Checking the pinout, pin 44 is for 12V constant power and pin 38 is for ground. Am I right?

So should I prefer the converter with remote wire or dont bother at all and connect remote wire to lighter terminal?
Best way is to hook up to the factory remote signal wire (which is used for factory amp etc) Which is in pin43.

Yes pin 44 power & pin 38 ground.

I'd go without remote power as you have pin43 to supply that.
(14:th-Dec-2015, 09:41:06)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]
Pinout as promised

[Image: A11%20Radio%20X1.jpg]

Wondering where the center speaker is connected. Also does anyone know how each woofer and tweeter is connected to the headunit? I mean one cable leaves behind the hu and splits to woofer and tweeter? Or seperate cables leave behind the hu for each woofer and tweeter?
@DNT are you asking factory set up would be for amp?
Any chance someone could post a picture on wiring up the rca converter to the head unit loom? cd400 astra gtc.

All the images at the start of this thread have disappeared!
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