13:th-Oct-2014, 19:49:17
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13:th-Oct-2014, 19:54:05
I'll grab it in the morning mate factory wiring.
13:th-Oct-2014, 20:05:10
Thanks your a star
14:th-Oct-2014, 08:01:36
Here you are mate.
Download link .PDF
Download link (Full details)
Other info you might want mate.
X53A Fuse Block - Rear Body X3
Luggage Compartment Components - Left Rear
K68 Trailer Lighting Converter X1
K68 Trailer Lighting Converter X2
Download link .PDF
Download link (Full details)
Other info you might want mate.
X53A Fuse Block - Rear Body X3
Luggage Compartment Components - Left Rear
K68 Trailer Lighting Converter X1
K68 Trailer Lighting Converter X2
14:th-Oct-2014, 19:24:28
Thanks very much
14:th-Oct-2014, 20:03:07
Your welcome mate, think I got all the bits if your doing a retrofit?
if I've missed anything just shout.
if I've missed anything just shout.
17:th-Oct-2014, 17:14:07
and dont forget to grab some pics of the fit mate
17:th-Oct-2014, 17:15:23
Rusty I could do with them mate
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:01:23
I will paul but the best price I can get for a the wiring kit is £200 not paying that
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:04:37
very pricey the control module may be found from a scrappy then
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:06:14
No that's just for the wiring
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:09:08
Rusty I need all the bits in the car to wire up my light socket if you have them
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:10:53
wow that is not that good it may be best to phone about and see if anyone is braking a car with a factory toe bar then
and get all the connectors and module from that as that will keep the cost down
as programming will still be needed if you want the factory kit to work
and get all the connectors and module from that as that will keep the cost down
as programming will still be needed if you want the factory kit to work
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:12:21
Programming is the easy bit it's finding the bits is the problem
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:12:23
also what toe bar do you have the factory one or after market
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:13:00
After market mate
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:17:06
so it has no wires or kit with it then just a bar
also moving this thread over to the research section as something may come of it.
also moving this thread over to the research section as something may come of it.
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:19:12
Yeah it has the socket and wire and a bypass relay but that won't work on my car I don't want to blow the body control mod
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:24:08
would it not just splice in to the light wiring brake indicator etc did any wiring diagrams come with the kit
i know some of these questions sound daft but best to know what you have as there may be a way round the factory wiring option
sure rusty will pick this thread up as i know he has done this
i know some of these questions sound daft but best to know what you have as there may be a way round the factory wiring option
sure rusty will pick this thread up as i know he has done this
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:31:22
That's what I thought but you have to be careful with the canbus
17:th-Oct-2014, 18:41:47
the extra light voltage will trow up errors on the dash for sure
so you really need to go the factory wiring and module way to get it error free
so you really need to go the factory wiring and module way to get it error free
17:th-Oct-2014, 19:47:23
Dicko I have aftermarket towbar with bypass and there is no problems whatsoever.
i can get pics you but will have to to wait till Sunday / Monday, I'll look for all the other bits but again will be Sunday / Monday.
i was going to get a Vauxhall towbar with electrics and modules was on eBay for £75 a few months back but left it as I didn't have the pins in the fuse board.
i can get pics you but will have to to wait till Sunday / Monday, I'll look for all the other bits but again will be Sunday / Monday.
i was going to get a Vauxhall towbar with electrics and modules was on eBay for £75 a few months back but left it as I didn't have the pins in the fuse board.
17:th-Oct-2014, 19:49:09
So you just used a bye pass relay and taped in to the lights wiring
17:th-Oct-2014, 19:53:59
Yes mate, I didn't fit it but I know it runs off a 10A (iirc) off the rear board to power the bypass box then they just taped into rear lighting using them annoying blue clip things.
ill grab the pics and info for you mate.
ill grab the pics and info for you mate.
17:th-Oct-2014, 19:55:09
Thanks that's brilliant mate a photo would be good
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:02:59
And show to rusty
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:03:55
Even better
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:10:01
tucpal Wrote:And show to rusty
?????? That makes no sense or am I being thick tonight?
Dicko what time do you finish work tomorrow?
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:11:22
Don't know yet don't think it will be to late probably about 3ish
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:15:06
How far from the port are you? Could always pop over for you too look time and distance depending.
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:17:53
Not far about 10 to15 minutes drive
Pm me your phone no I will phone you when I am on my way home if you want
Pm me your phone no I will phone you when I am on my way home if you want
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:23:50
Cool PM sent.
17:th-Oct-2014, 20:28:01
Reply sent by text mate
17:th-Oct-2014, 22:05:45
You will be 45 mins away rusty I have dicko,s address on my nav
17:th-Oct-2014, 22:46:27
Agree with Rusty, bypass relay works spot on. Likewise, if your looking to require hooking up a caravan, the smart charge relay works spot on too with no errors.
No need for expensive OE wiring.
No need for expensive OE wiring.
18:th-Oct-2014, 01:11:09
that sounds a better solution as long as it will fool the can buss but loads could be added if errors persist
18:th-Oct-2014, 11:30:40
It works spot on, Tucpal. Had my tralier and caravan hooked up, no errors what so ever.
Jobs a good one, and cheap too. It's a win win
Jobs a good one, and cheap too. It's a win win
18:th-Oct-2014, 19:20:34
Dicko can you check the wiring on the back of the headlamp switch for me mate?
Want to compare it to mine
Sent from my iPhone 5c using Tapatalk.
Want to compare it to mine
Sent from my iPhone 5c using Tapatalk.
18:th-Oct-2014, 19:22:04
Yeah no problem do it tomorrow what do you need to no
19:th-Oct-2014, 08:49:24
Sorry for the delay fell asleep lol,
can you check your's matches the follow pin out for me please mate.
http://vxoc.org.uk/download/VXOC%20docs/...Switch.pdf
I'm just going to start taking the side trim off so I can get you pics and details for the Towbar wiring.
can you check your's matches the follow pin out for me please mate.
http://vxoc.org.uk/download/VXOC%20docs/...Switch.pdf
I'm just going to start taking the side trim off so I can get you pics and details for the Towbar wiring.
19:th-Oct-2014, 11:19:33
Right mate here you go.
runs in the car here
connects into the relay module
Power is comes here on the fuse board 05 has an inline 15A fuse then into the module
The White wire that come into the car is spliced the wire goes to a ground (they used the nut on the fuse board) the spliced wire goes into the module.
Then there is a plug which comes out the module and these are tapped into the rear lights.
the Green goes off to the drivers side rear fog light it's tapped into the Blue wire
The Blue wire is tapped into a yellow wire above the rear fuse board
The rest are tapped into wire here
I'm just going to get all the other wire colours for you.
Here is a .PDF for mine and if you don't have a module yet these can picked up ebay
http://www.vxoc.org.uk/Images/rusty/Towb...ZR2500.pdf
Here's a full kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12n-Single-Tow...43ca8c49d4
or just the module
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOWING-7-WAY-B...3cd29b5ee8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCT-Automotive...43af18054a
runs in the car here
connects into the relay module
Power is comes here on the fuse board 05 has an inline 15A fuse then into the module
The White wire that come into the car is spliced the wire goes to a ground (they used the nut on the fuse board) the spliced wire goes into the module.
Then there is a plug which comes out the module and these are tapped into the rear lights.
the Green goes off to the drivers side rear fog light it's tapped into the Blue wire
The Blue wire is tapped into a yellow wire above the rear fuse board
The rest are tapped into wire here
I'm just going to get all the other wire colours for you.
Here is a .PDF for mine and if you don't have a module yet these can picked up ebay
http://www.vxoc.org.uk/Images/rusty/Towb...ZR2500.pdf
Here's a full kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12n-Single-Tow...43ca8c49d4
or just the module
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOWING-7-WAY-B...3cd29b5ee8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCT-Automotive...43af18054a
19:th-Oct-2014, 11:46:11
In my above post I got the wire wrong please disregard the GREEN GOING TO FOG IT DOESN'T.
Wiring.
From module to car wiring.
Green runs to drivers side taps into Blue wire = RH Indicator
Blue taps into Yellow/Grey above the fuse board = Fog Light
Red taps into Grey/Yellow below fuse board = brake light
Yellow taps into Blue/White below fuse board = LH Indicator
Brown & Black Join and taps into Purple/Grey below fuse board = Side lights
White taps into reverse light but I don't have that connected.
Wiring.
From module to car wiring.
Green runs to drivers side taps into Blue wire = RH Indicator
Blue taps into Yellow/Grey above the fuse board = Fog Light
Red taps into Grey/Yellow below fuse board = brake light
Yellow taps into Blue/White below fuse board = LH Indicator
Brown & Black Join and taps into Purple/Grey below fuse board = Side lights
White taps into reverse light but I don't have that connected.
19:th-Oct-2014, 12:09:21
Thanks for that rusty much appreciated
20:th-Oct-2014, 16:21:26
how are you getting on Dicko ?
10:th-Sep-2017, 21:04:47
Hi just reading about the wiring for a tow bar. I'm doing the same on my 2013 insignia. I'm using a similar retrofit kit.
Many thanks
Matt
Many thanks
Matt
11:th-Mar-2018, 12:33:37
Hi Folks
sorry for bumping an old thread but rather than starting a new one thought i better to ask on this thread.
I've just picked up what appears to be factory fitted towbar & electrics.
I'm pretty handy with rewiring the car but i can seem to find any reference guides online for how to fit the wiring i've had sent with the towbar.
so just looking for some advice on how i either fit what i have
or
am i better going with an aftermarket module like the one further up the thread,
as i say electrics dont bother me so fitting an aftermarket one & splicing into the loom would be fie for me & i'm not going to be towing a lot so having integration with the CANBUS system isn't a must either
Here is the loom i've been sent with the towbar
sorry for bumping an old thread but rather than starting a new one thought i better to ask on this thread.
I've just picked up what appears to be factory fitted towbar & electrics.
I'm pretty handy with rewiring the car but i can seem to find any reference guides online for how to fit the wiring i've had sent with the towbar.
so just looking for some advice on how i either fit what i have
or
am i better going with an aftermarket module like the one further up the thread,
as i say electrics dont bother me so fitting an aftermarket one & splicing into the loom would be fie for me & i'm not going to be towing a lot so having integration with the CANBUS system isn't a must either
Here is the loom i've been sent with the towbar
12:th-Mar-2018, 08:31:16
While that is a factory module it's not a factory loom, it's a kit made by a 3rd party.
So you you would need to contact them.
The only person I know who did fit one of these sadly passed away.
So you you would need to contact them.
The only person I know who did fit one of these sadly passed away.
12:th-Mar-2018, 11:20:41
This is what i know about the MERIVA's towbar wiring... using that trailer interface module you have (TIM) there's basically about 4 wires that need connecting to the car and 3 earths,
one wire is to the brake light wire on the car... might not be needed on astra's.. on merivas the brake light isnt on the canbus it seems... it's also able to be controlled by other modules directly, hence the need to tap into it.
Then there's a couple of power wires, one to run the TIM,
the other to feed power to the 13 pin trailer socket... for power to charge a caravans battery and run the fridge etc, that looks to be those thick red and yellow wires with the white plug going to the trailer socket.
Then there's a wire to the front of the car (meriva's dont have rear electrical centres like astras do) that wire is the canbus wire, so basically one connection runs all the lights on the trailer, gives you bulb out warnings and aparantly alters the abs and eps when towing... if towing a caravan and it gets into a snake, the car will brake the opposite rear wheels to try and correct the snake before the caravan flips the car over or spins it around,
Oh, and if you have rear reversing sensors, it turns them off when towing too... BUT, it needs programming to the car with a tech2/mdi, simple 5 minute job to tell the bcm and reversing sensor module that you now have a trailer interface.
personally i'd wire in the TIM you have, as it integrates the trailers lights into the car, and is only a few connections, and the canbus connection will be at the rear electrical centre, so easier than on a meriva.
to use a canbus bypass module you will need 6 or 7 connections to the rear lights, power, earth, and an annoying buzzer that goes off when the trailers indicators are working (with the factory system, it tells you if you have a trailer bulb out rather than buzzzing or a second indicator symbol on the dash)
The wiring connections can be worked out, may need a bit of a new loom making up... and i dunno why they cut the main (big red) power tire to the TIM.. and so close to the plug,
one wire is to the brake light wire on the car... might not be needed on astra's.. on merivas the brake light isnt on the canbus it seems... it's also able to be controlled by other modules directly, hence the need to tap into it.
Then there's a couple of power wires, one to run the TIM,
the other to feed power to the 13 pin trailer socket... for power to charge a caravans battery and run the fridge etc, that looks to be those thick red and yellow wires with the white plug going to the trailer socket.
Then there's a wire to the front of the car (meriva's dont have rear electrical centres like astras do) that wire is the canbus wire, so basically one connection runs all the lights on the trailer, gives you bulb out warnings and aparantly alters the abs and eps when towing... if towing a caravan and it gets into a snake, the car will brake the opposite rear wheels to try and correct the snake before the caravan flips the car over or spins it around,
Oh, and if you have rear reversing sensors, it turns them off when towing too... BUT, it needs programming to the car with a tech2/mdi, simple 5 minute job to tell the bcm and reversing sensor module that you now have a trailer interface.
personally i'd wire in the TIM you have, as it integrates the trailers lights into the car, and is only a few connections, and the canbus connection will be at the rear electrical centre, so easier than on a meriva.
to use a canbus bypass module you will need 6 or 7 connections to the rear lights, power, earth, and an annoying buzzer that goes off when the trailers indicators are working (with the factory system, it tells you if you have a trailer bulb out rather than buzzzing or a second indicator symbol on the dash)
The wiring connections can be worked out, may need a bit of a new loom making up... and i dunno why they cut the main (big red) power tire to the TIM.. and so close to the plug,
13:th-Mar-2018, 17:14:23
Cheers Rusty
TBH after reading the posts on here I just went wit the 7way relay, looks super easy to fit where as trying to reverse engineer this other loom & box looks like a lot of work
TBH after reading the posts on here I just went wit the 7way relay, looks super easy to fit where as trying to reverse engineer this other loom & box looks like a lot of work
13:th-Mar-2018, 17:22:46
Sorry Gaz, missed your reply...
I might have another look then, if its pretty much just a single wire to tap into the canbus system then that would make it easier, the whole loom just looks a mess right now but your explanation certainly clear up a lot of the unknowns
I might have another look then, if its pretty much just a single wire to tap into the canbus system then that would make it easier, the whole loom just looks a mess right now but your explanation certainly clear up a lot of the unknowns
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