![[-]](https://vxoc.org.uk/forum/images/dark1.8/collapse.png "[-]")
15:th-Oct-2017, 20:19:40
Got the rubber foot mats today, happy muddy foot dog walking ahead!
![[Image: 20171015_173734.jpg]](https://preview.ibb.co/f9cYd6/20171015_173734.jpg)
![[Image: 20171015_173730.jpg]](https://preview.ibb.co/ma1td6/20171015_173730.jpg)
![[Image: 20171015_173747.jpg]](https://preview.ibb.co/mWLVQm/20171015_173747.jpg)
With the car, I received 1 flip key & one "stab you where it hurts when you sit" key.
I bought a blank flip key off eBay for £3 and proceeded to swap the electronics from one key to the other.
This is where I wish I had done a how-2 for anyone else with this but I was too far gone before thinking about it. New rule: photos all the time just in case!
The internal PCB was larger than the flip key fob allowed for, along with having the contacts for the CR2032 being on the wrong side for the fob case.
So it was with a lot of bravery, I fetched some side snips, needle nose pliers & sand paper.
I didn't care about the new flip key case: if I botched it, it was £3. But I destroyed the original key getting the PCB out without damaging the PCB (such irony for what I was then to do to it.)
First, I spotted the bottom of the PCB was sharp cornered, but taking up about 2mm extra space. So I sanded these down, which moved the PCB into position for the switches. The immobilizer RFID however was still obstructed by a bit of the case plastic, but I was able to snip some out to make way.
However, a giant lug of PCB was still poking out into the swivel part of the key fob. On closer inspection, I could only see a single "+" marked contact but nothing else on the PCB. So using the side snips I carefully cut off a section of the PCB, a little under a square cm in size.
Quick pressing with the battery & I confirmed, it still worked!
Onwards and upwards. I had to trim a little more casing to move the battery +ve connection to the other side and bend it a little, but £10 for a key cutting later and viola, two flip-keys.
Please note, this involved significant risk to the PCB board. Replacing & programming these are not cheap, do any of this at your own risk!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
With the car, I received 1 flip key & one "stab you where it hurts when you sit" key.
I bought a blank flip key off eBay for £3 and proceeded to swap the electronics from one key to the other.
This is where I wish I had done a how-2 for anyone else with this but I was too far gone before thinking about it. New rule: photos all the time just in case!
The internal PCB was larger than the flip key fob allowed for, along with having the contacts for the CR2032 being on the wrong side for the fob case.
So it was with a lot of bravery, I fetched some side snips, needle nose pliers & sand paper.
I didn't care about the new flip key case: if I botched it, it was £3. But I destroyed the original key getting the PCB out without damaging the PCB (such irony for what I was then to do to it.)
First, I spotted the bottom of the PCB was sharp cornered, but taking up about 2mm extra space. So I sanded these down, which moved the PCB into position for the switches. The immobilizer RFID however was still obstructed by a bit of the case plastic, but I was able to snip some out to make way.
However, a giant lug of PCB was still poking out into the swivel part of the key fob. On closer inspection, I could only see a single "+" marked contact but nothing else on the PCB. So using the side snips I carefully cut off a section of the PCB, a little under a square cm in size.
Quick pressing with the battery & I confirmed, it still worked!
Onwards and upwards. I had to trim a little more casing to move the battery +ve connection to the other side and bend it a little, but £10 for a key cutting later and viola, two flip-keys.
Please note, this involved significant risk to the PCB board. Replacing & programming these are not cheap, do any of this at your own risk!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk