VXOC Astra-J/GTC

Can anyone help me with a couple of issues i have with my astra j se cdi 1.7 ecoflex,only just got the car so not sure
about the layout of things yet.I am an ex astra g user which never had any problems with and wish id a stuck with that!!.

Anyway the rear electric windows on my astra j dont seem to work or havent for a while looking at them...
The other problem is my front fog lights dont work neither,just wont light up what so ever,this car seems to be throwing more
and more problems up and i have yet to drive a mile in it yet...lol..

Any help would be appreciated...

Hi for the fog lamps check fuse 26 in the engine bay, I'm assuming you have checked bulbs?

For rear windows check fuse 20 in engine bay.

(24:th-Aug-2018, 07:02:54)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Hi for the fog lamps check fuse 26 in the engine bay, I'm assuming you have checked bulbs?

For rear windows check fuse 20 in engine bay.

Yes bulbs look ok Rusty2009,and also checked fuse 26 for front fogs and checked 20 for the rear windows everything
seems ok,just took the door card off rear door to find a fish pond in the bottom of the door,which cant be
any good for electrics... 
Anyway checked with multi to see if door window regulator motor is getting power..and its getting power
11.8v so powers getting there which now leads me to believe the motors gone but gone in both rear doors??

Any ideas mate???

Just throwing something into the mix, could it be bcm as we have seen a couple of issues with them recently.

(24:th-Aug-2018, 20:27:57)Jpbroad1970 Wrote: [ -> ]Just throwing something into the mix, could it be bcm as we have seen a couple of issues with them recently.

Wouldnt even know where the bcm is Jpbroad1970 lol,where is it located bud??? 

(24:th-Aug-2018, 21:45:56)Griifter Wrote: [ -> ]

(24:th-Aug-2018, 20:27:57)Jpbroad1970 Wrote: [ -> ]Just throwing something into the mix, could it be bcm as we have seen a couple of issues with them recently.

Wouldnt even know where the bcm is Jpbroad1970 lol,where is it located bud??? 

Do now bud,i hope its not that?,sounds expensive and will need reprogramming.........

First thing pull the rubber bungs out the bottom of the door this will allow the water to drain properly, check all doors.

2nd if your getting power to rear windows then I would rule out the BCM, but to answer your other question on that not (I can clone and reprogram BCM's on the bench you do need to match part numbers tho).

Is the motor making any noise at all or effort to move? Motors can be sourced pretty cheaply on ebay.

Is the green fog light symbol on the dash turning on when you push the button?

Post your reg up and John or myself can get build spec for you.

(26:th-Aug-2018, 16:35:17)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]First thing pull the rubber bungs out the bottom of the door this will allow the water to drain properly, check all doors.

2nd if your getting power to rear windows then I would rule out the BCM, but to answer your other question on that not (I can clone and reprogram BCM's on the bench you do need to match part numbers tho).

Is the motor making any noise at all or effort to move? Motors can be sourced pretty cheaply on ebay.

Is the green fog light symbol on the dash turning on when you push the button?

Post your reg up and John or myself can get build spec for you.

Thanks for the reply Rusty,yes i removed the bungs and now the waters drained out..shame really as i was going to put some goldfish in there...lol
I am getting no noise from the motor at all,i listened for a while but nothing.
The green fog light symbol does not light up on the dash and never has since i got the car,the rear one lights up ok but ziltch for the front,did manage to 
get front bumper off and checked the wiring,,all was good so not that!!...

Anyway heres my reg Rusty:  SH11 PGZ

Looks like i have bought a white elephant here to be honest,my own fault though!!! 
And great news you can clone and reprogram the BCM`s.. Also sent you Vehicle DTC information from
11/2017 which was in the wallet with the car just to give you some idea of whats going on with it.
Any feedback on it would be appreciated...

Cheers Rusty.. 

Lol be a bugger to feed with the door card on.

I sent you a link back via PM which should help you to test the window but I thought you had a MDI from your PM lol.
Where are you based?

Ok the fogs need some looking into also then as I was thinking maybe they weren't factory fitted but they are (PM on way with full build spec).

Yip that would be a problem feeding them Rusty but they will be ok for a drink...lol

Anyways thanks for the links mate muchly appreciated,as for MDI nop just scanned as jpg then
uploaded to a image hosting site...
Looks like i am going to need a scan tool too as i only have obdII and an app on my phone which does`nt
really show you much,going to get the one you suggested in another thread... 
As for the fogs, god knows mate,got a new headlight coming this week as the drl bulb melted the plastic in the 
holder,so wont know till get it bk together??

I am from Stockton on Tees bud,well a little village not to far from there.. Norton to be precise...

Cheers for now mate...  


P.S Got all my smds for my dash and interior lighting but lost the heart to do them..... 

Ah ok, yep the op-com from http://www.op-com.co.uk/store/c1/Featured_Products.html is best one.

I'm just wondering because the door was full of water it maybe that the motor or window switch got wet?

Could be worth giving them a good spray of WD40.

Ah ok too far to pop to me to help you look into them.

there is a test for fogs I'll see if I can find the info.

Ah you should do it mate it'll make you feel better and have something good.

(28:th-Aug-2018, 09:43:05)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Ah ok, yep the op-com from http://www.op-com.co.uk/store/c1/Featured_Products.html is best one.

I'm just wondering because the door was full of water it maybe that the motor or window switch got wet?

Could be worth giving them a good spray of WD40.

Ah ok too far to pop to me to help you look into them.

there is a test for fogs I'll see if I can find the info.

Ah you should do it mate it'll make you feel better and have something good.

Yes mate thats what i was going to get but was gently swayed towards this by Dennis S

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAUNCH-Creade...2749.l2649

The reason i did go for that as like Dennis S, i wanted something i could keep in the car....

Then this morning i read your pm and looked again on ebay and discovered this:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V1-70-OPEL-OP...2749.l2649


If its rubbish or a clone which it probably is,then for 11 quid cant fall off,as long as i get 6 months out of it im not bothered or 
and it clears my car of faults...

As for the window motor,that was the first thing i thought of spraying it with wd40,but still nothing...
So to plan b?

I am going to buy a new motor regulator and try that(you wouldnt happen to know the part number by any chance would you mate?)
After i have cleared all DTC`s though...

Thanks for the offer for some assitance bud...    

A test for fogs??...Sounds good me....

And ye ive decided to not let these problems put me off what i intentionally set out to do!,so out with the soldering iron at the weekend and 
see if i can get a few smds soldered...Started today by putting my rear led number plate lights in(will get a pic when dark)....

So happy days are getting closer mate(fingers crossed)....

I always advise not to buy them from eBay etc as they use cheap and nasty components.

It’s deffo a strange one for sure.

It’s crazy you were sold a car with these faults.

How long ago did you buy it as TBH I’d be on them to put it right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ye true rusty,i hate buying cheap but needs are such at the moment, so will have to make do,i will get a decent one
when im bk on my feet....

Bought the car 14th of this month Rusty and have yet to get it off the drive,did take it for a 10 min
run when i bought it and no faults were displayed or knocks bangs or anything,the car seemed ok.
Its only after looking into things that i got to know these faults were there.He kept hold of the paperwork
which i thought was strange at the time and now i know why!!.

I did ring the guy but he wouldnt answer the phone.. so really i have just got to bite the bullet and get the car
done and give it that little bit of tlc that it was missing.....
 

Mechanically the car seems ok its just those Dtc`s that have got me thinking,so really the electrical side wants a good
going over.....

Reg lights look ok anyway..... 

Ah lesson learned then if you can't view paper work walk away. but was it a private sale?

I would call up trading standers or even citizen advise and explain to them whats happened.

As to part numbers
13350764 REGULATOR, ELECTRIC, WITH MOTOR, REAR DOOR WINDOW, RH
13350762 REGULATOR, ELECTRIC, WITH MOTOR, REAR DOOR WINDOW, LH older part numbers 13313573

13350760 REGULATOR, ELECTRIC, WITH MOTOR, FRONT DOOR WINDOW, RH some older part numbers 13313569 13294505
13350758 REGULATOR, ELECTRIC, WITH MOTOR, FRONT DOOR WINDOW, LH some older part numbers 13313568 13265061 13294504

Number-plate lights are looking spot on mate.

Ye an expensive lesson learnt Rusty,but its a waste of time crying over it might as well
just get on with it and get car sorted..

Thanks for the part numbers mate i`ll keep my eyes open and see if i can get a second
hand motor regulator and hopefully that will start the ball rolling into a problem solving
frenzy!!...if only...lol

One thing i did find out today is those fogs do work on the wiring from fogs to plug(the one 
that plugs into the socket on pass side front).
So that wiring is ok upto that plug...lol

 

And while i was tinkering about i though i would try the plcc-2 smd`s,very nice too..   


And fitted.......


Or and before i forget, it was a private sale Rusty,the lad brought the car to my house,
i wish i knew then what i know now!!!! 

Cheers for now Mate.... 

That's very true mate.

there was a chap on facebook who had all parts (as he was going to retrofit rear electrics) I'll see if I can find the post.

Looking good mate the door ones need some modding. I don't suppose you fancy making a how-to for them do you? I would do it but not got a conversion job in at the moment.

Ah that's some good news there Here is the test info.

Circuit/System Description

The front fog lamp relay is supplied with battery voltage at all times. The front fog lamp switch signal circuit is grounded momentarily by pressing the front fog lamp switch. The body control module (BCM) energizes the front fog lamp relay by applying ground to the front fog lamp relay control circuit. When the front fog lamp relay is energized, the relay switch contacts close and battery voltage is applied through the front fog lamp fuse to the front fog lamp supply voltage circuit which illuminates the front fog lamps. With the front fog lamp switch activated the BCM sends a message via serial data to the instrument cluster requesting the instrument cluster to illuminate the front fog indicator.

Circuit/System Verification

•   Ignition ON, perform the Front Fog Lamps test. The front fog lamps should be ON/OFF.  

•   Ignition ON, perform the instrument cluster All Indicators test ON and OFF test. The front fog indicator should be ON/OFF.  

Circuit/System Testing

Front Fog Lamp Malfunction
1.  Ignition OFF, disconnect the appropriate harness connector at the front fog lamps listed below:  

 •   E29LF Fog Lamp - Left Front  

 •   E29RF Fog Lamp - Right Front  

2.  Disconnect the negative terminal of the C1 Battery.  

3.  Test for less than 5 Ω between the appropriate front fog lamp ground circuit harness connector terminal 2 and ground.  

⇒ If greater than the specified value, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

4.  Reconnect the negative terminal to the C1 Battery.  

5.  Remove the F26UA fuse. Verify that the front fog lamps does not illuminates.  

⇒ If any front fog lamp does illuminate, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage.

6.  Install a 10 A fused jumper wire between the fuse output contact and B+. Verify that the front fog lamps illuminate.  

⇒ If the front fog lamps does not illuminate, test the signal circuit terminal for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the appropriate front fog lamp.

7.  Disconnect the X2 harness connector at the X50A Fuse Block - Underhood.  

8.  Connect a test lamp between the signal circuit terminal 46 X2 and B+.  

9.  Ignition ON, perform the Front Fog Lamps test. The test lamp should turn ON and OFF when changing between the commanded states.  

⇒ If he test lamp is always ON, test the signal circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K9 Body Control Module.

⇒ If he test lamp is always OFF, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the K9 Body Control Module.

10.  If all circuit test normal, replace the X50A Fuse Block - Underhood.  

Front Fog Lamp Switch Malfunction
1.  Ignition OFF, disconnect the X1 and X3 at the K9 Body Control Module.  

2.  Ignition ON, test for less than 0.3 V between the 12 V reference circuit terminal 4 X3 and ground.  

⇒ If greater than the specified value, test the 12 V Reference circuit for a short to voltage.

3.  Test for less than 0.3 V between the signal circuit terminal 9 X1 and ground.  

⇒ If greater than the specified value, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage.

4.  Ignition OFF, test for infinite resistance between the 12 V reference circuit terminal 4 X3 and ground.  

⇒ If less than the specified value, test the 12 V reference circuit for a short to ground.

5.  Test for less than 0.3 V between the signal circuit terminal 9 X1 and ground.  

⇒ If greater than the specified value, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage.

6.  Test for infinite resistance between the signal circuit terminal 9 X1 and ground.  

⇒ If less than the specified value, test the signal circuit for a short to ground.

7.  Press and hold the front fog lamp switch button.  

8.  Test for 2.7-3.1 kΩ between the signal circuit terminal 9 X1 and the 12 V reference circuit terminal 4 X3.  

⇒ If not within the specified range, test the 12 V reference circuit and the signal circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit test normal replace the S30 Headlamp Switch.

Front Fog Indicator Malfunction
Ignition ON, command the instrument cluster All Indicators test ON and OFF with the scan tool. The front fog indicator lamp should be ON/OFF when changing between the commanded states.

If the front fog indicator stays always on or always off, replace the P16 Instrument Cluster. If the front fog indicator is changing between ON and OFF, replace the K9 Body Control Module.

One thing I'm wondering is if the fuse board may have some some issues as some of these items your having issues with have "non serviceable" relays

(30:th-Aug-2018, 08:14:06)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]One thing I'm wondering is if the fuse board may have some some issues as some of these items your having issues with have "non serviceable" relays

Thanks for the fog lamp test info Rusty,will give it a try when i get a bit of time(well a lot of time really     lol.)
As for the How-to for the door leds,ye no problem,will do it when i do the drivers door one,a bit fiddly but easy now
i`ve done one.... 
You mention the fuse board too,now i thought there was a problem with this the other day when i was testing fuses!!,
some thing just isnt right somewhere??, but where??....
Now goes to test fuses again today and i find this:-


This is the 30amp fuse (num 20) thats popped but dont no why the windows dont even work in the rear?.
Did try another fuse but windows still not working....

Think we could be on the right lines here,some things deffinately not right on that fuse board!!!!...

As for the guy on Facebook that would be great if he had a spare window motor regulator for sale.. 

Cheers for now mate...