VXOC Astra-J/GTC - 2.0 CDTI, EGR VALVE, MAP SENSOR AND THROTTLE BODY CLEAN

HOW TO CLEAN THE EGR VALVE AND EGR PIPE AND MAP SENSOR AND THROTTLE BODY AND MAF SENSOR.

This How To will cover The Process of cleaning the EGR Valve
And Related Parts Needed if you are having EGR Related Problems
on the 2.0 CDTI Engine But This is also a Recommended Thing to do Every 10 or 20.000 Miles
to Keep the EGR and DPF in Top Condition and keep the Valve from Getting blocked with Soot
this will Save You Costly Replacement parts and problems if the valve gets Blocked and Stuck
The same Process will Apply to other Diesel Engines
But the Location of the Parts will Differ And the Process of Removing the Parts will be Different.

.........................PARTS NEEDED.......................

1X T27 TORX SOCKET..
1X 10MM SOCKET..
1X 5MM LONG ALLEN KEY OR SOCKET..
1X 4 OR 5 INCH RATCHET EXTENSION..
1X RATCHET..
2 x THROTTLE BODY EGR CLEANER..a few cans.
CAUSTIC SODA..Optional Comes with Risk.
RUBBER GLOVES..
BUCKET..
RAGS..

.........................HOW TO..................................

The First Step is to make sure the engine is cold before working on the car
And then Remove the Battery Negative
Then Remove the Engine Cover and Locate the EGR Valve.
it will be Found at the Back of the Engine Near the Throttle Body.

[Image: DSC03230_zpseohgxjyr.jpg]

...Second step...

Remove the EGR Valve,
You will see a Brown Connector Pull the Yellow Tab Back and Pull the Connector Off
You will then see Two Torx T27 Bolts One Bolt at the Top And One Bolt at the Bottom
This is the Awkward One You will Need an Extension on your Ratchet to get this one Out
Also be Careful You will Need to get Right Over the Engine be Aware of the Fuel Pipes on the Injectors
They are Brittle don't break them also try not to Drop Anything in the Engine Bay it is a Nightmare to Get them Out
Remove the Two Bolts and Pull the EGR Valve out You may See some Coolant come out But There Will Only be a Tiny Bit this is Normal.
There is a Round Metal Gasket that will be Sitting in the Hole for the EGR About 3 Inches Inside
Remove this and Clean it But Do Not Bend it and then Replace it Back into the Hole Before you Refit the EGR
but Really you Should Replace the Gaskets New ones are Best Option.

[Image: DSC03214_zpsspk4i2rv.jpg]

....THIRD STEP....

Remove the EGR Pipe You will See Three 10mm Bolts At the Top of the Pipe
And Two 5mm Allen Key Bolts at the Bottom of the Pipe
You will Need a Long Allen Key or Extension on your Ratchet to get These out
As There Awkward again to Reach Again Take Care of the Top of the Engine when Reaching over it
when the Bolts are out Pull and Twist the Pipe free and out
There is a Rubber Gasket at the Top of the Pipe Take care this does not fall off.

[Image: DSC03219_zps0n88ibz3.jpg]

....Fourth Step....

Clean the EGR Valve and Pipe
You can Clean the EGR Valve and Pipe How You Like You can clean it with EGR Cleaner Spray and do it the correct way
You can Scrape the Carbon Build up out and then Scrub, Spray, Wipe, Soak, Scrub, Spray, and so on
an old Toothbrush Comes in Handy and Leave the EGR Cleaner to Soak for a few Minutes in Between Brushing
And So on Till The EGR is Clean and This is the Recommended Way To clean the EGR.

Or You can Soak the EGR in a weak Caustic Soda bath with hot water for 5 mins Max checking after the first 2 mins
if it looks Cleaner after 2 mins then Remove it Rinse with Clean Water and Remove the Rest with EGR Cleaner
This will Eat the Carbon much Quicker and will Help if your EGR is Really Clogged up Badly with Hard Carbon
But if Left too Long it can also Eat the Alloy and even Damage the EGR
You can Submerge the Pipe for Longer but Do Not Get Any of this Stuff on Any Plastic Parts or Connectors on the EGR Valve
Do Not Use With Plastic Pipes this is for Metal Pipes Only,
This is Nasty Stuff if it gets on Skin Please Read and Follow the Instructions on the Box Carefully
Fill the Bucket with Just Enough to Clean the Metal Parts Only
Do not Knock the EGR Over stand Upright just below the Metal Plate in the Bucket Take Care
And Wear Eye Protection and Rubber Gloves and Cover Skin again Read the Instructions Fully
After the parts have had a Quick Soak as short a Time as Possible Max 5 mins
Wipe the Parts Clean and then Rinse the Metal Valve and Pipe with Clean Water and Wipe and Dry
But Again Keep the Top Plastic Bit of The EGR Clean and DRY when Rinsing
Do Not Refit till Fully Dry Leave Standing for a Good While
Dispose of waste in the Bucket Responsibly it's Now very Nasty Black Acidic Toxic Waste.
i Actually Recommend the Caustic Soda for the Pipe but again not to Long
But Only a Quick Dip 2 mins for the EGR if you are Having real Trouble Removing the Carbon Build up with the EGR Cleaner
It is more of a Last Resort Method it Has to be Mentioned
As there are Loads out There who Say to use it and this Has been Mentioned and Explained so you know the Risks.
The Same Risks will Apply to Oven Cleaner it Caustic.

Really Try the EGR Cleaner its Just Safer and Kinder to the Alloy on the EGR
And just Safer All Round.

[Image: DSC03223_zpsql7ld0ds.jpg]

Now Take a Rag and Spray it with EGR Cleaner and Wipe the Inside of the Inlet Holes for the EGR and Pipe
on the Engine and get them as Clean as Possible Take Care not to Knock Any Chunks of Carbon into the Intake Holes
Then you can Refit the Pipe and EGR Valve Back into the Car Do Not Over Tighten the Bolts 10nm is Fine
Reconnect the Connector and Push the Yellow Locking Tab Back in Place
and check the Coolant Levels Keep an Eye on it for a Day or Two just Incase you have Any Leaks
But i would Move onto the Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure Before you Refit the EGR and Pipe
This will Make Cleaning Inside the Inlet Manifold Pipe where the EGR Pipe Sits a lot Easier

[Image: DSC03232_zpskix9grwl.jpg]

....STEP FIVE....

[Image: 9nd4_zpsea5fce57.jpg]

....THROTTLE BODY CLEAN....

..TOOLS...

T30 TORX SOCKET.
10MM SOCKET.
Rachet Plus Extension.
THROTTLE BODY CLEANER.

It is a Real Good Idea to Clean the Throttle Body and Inlet and Out Let Pipes Connected to it
After you have Done the EGR Clean Do this Before you Fit the EGR Pipe Back as this will Help You
Clean Further Inside the Inlet Manifold.
First Remove the 10mm Bolt from the Holding Bracket on the Intake Pipe
and Remove the Two Small Pipes from the Intake and move them out of the way
Then Pull the ECU Out the Way also so you will have Better Access to Get to the Bolts
Remove the 3 T30 Torx Bolts and Pull the Intake Pipe Out

[Image: DSC03253_zpstbz1lhyb.jpg]

Next Remove The 3, 10mm Bolts from the Throttle Body
Remove the Brown Connector and then Pull the Tab Out Then Pull the Connector off
You can now Remove the Throttle Body and Clean with Throttle Body Cleaner
and Clean out the Inlet and Out Let Pipes also with a rag and cleaner
There is a Rubber Gasket on the Plate Around the inlet pipe Make Sure that has had a Clean also
And Then Refit it as Above in Reverse and then you can Refit the EGR as well.

[Image: DSC03258_zps3qx0llr3.jpg]

....Step SIX....

MAP Manifold Pressure Sensor Clean.

Tools

T30 Torx Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet Extension
EGR Cleaner

The First job is to Locate the MAP sensor Position on the Inlet Manifold at the Back of the Engine
This is a Very Tight Space to Work so a Few Things have to be Moved out the Way to get to the Bolt on the Boost Sensor

[Image: DSC03248_zpsprpmvlhe.jpg]

Remove the Black and Yellow Connector on the MAP Sensor that needs to be Removed out the way
Just Pull the Yellow Tab back and Pull the Connector off
You will see a 10mm Nut Remove this and Move this Sensor out of the way
There is a Pipe that would be Best Removed but Leave it Alone as it is not Easy at all to get that off and you Risk of Splitting the Pipe.

[Image: DSC03237_zpszyj87rqa.jpg]

Next just Near to the Torx Bolt on the MAP Sensor you will See a 10mm Bolt on a Black Plastic Bracket
Remove this Bolt this will Help you Move the Pipe Slightly out off the way to get Access to the Blot on the Boost Sensor
After that Remove the Connector on the MAP Sensor
Again this is a Very Tight space to work in Dont Drop the Bolt.

[Image: DSC03235_zpsv3em1uyw.jpg]

Next Remove the t30 torx Bolt Holding the MAP Sensor this is still a Very Tight thing to get out
so be Careful Removing it then Push the Tab Down at the Bottom Holding the MAP Sensor and Remove the MAP Sensor

[Image: DSC03239_zps6wql0cu9.jpg]

Next Clean the MAP Sensor with EGR Cleaner to Remove the Carbon Build up and Scrub it with an old Toothbrush
Keep the Connector Plug Part free from Cleaner and as Dry as Possible
After you have Cleaned the MAP Sensor Refit it to the Car as above in Reverse Order
Just Take Care Getting the Bolts Back in as it is Tricky so Take your Time.

[Image: DSC03242_zps8luijcm5.jpg]

....STEP SEVEN, MAF CLEAN, Mass Air Flow....

[Image: 9nd4_zpsea5fce57.jpg]

..TOOLS..

7MM socket.
MAF Cleaner.

You may as well Check the MAF, or the Mass Air Flow Meter is Also Clean
and Check the Condition of Your Air Filter while you are There
Unplug the Connector Pull the Yellow Tab Back and Pull off the Connector
Other Models will Have Two Screws just Undo them and it will Just Pull Out
2.0 CDTI just undo the Two 7mm Bolts on the Clamps and Pull the MAF Casing Out
Spray with MAF Cleaner and Allow to Dry do not Rub the Sensor with a Rag
Just Leave it to Dry and then Refit it back Together.

[Image: DSC03249_zpseqygsflm.jpg]

....Next and Last Step......Fuel Additives.........

[Image: 9nd4_zpsea5fce57.jpg]

Now you have Done all That Start the Engine and Let the Car Idle Till the Engine is Warm
Fill the Car up with a Good Quality Fuel like Shell V Max use a Full Tank of Diesel
and add a Good Quality Diesel Fuel Injector Fuel Cleaner Treatment Additive and add to the Full tank
This will Help Clean the Injectors and Fuel Sytem out.
And go on a Long Run Altering the Driving Conditions and Rev Range
Have Fun your Car Should be Feeling Better for Your Hard Work.

Also you may want to Think about Changing the Fuel Filter also
and Adding a Good Quality DPF Treatment on your Next Fill up to Further Clean Things up.

https://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How...iesel-cars

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141809892366?_...EBIDX%3AIT

You may want to think twice before using supermarket cheap diesel in the future
Yes its Cheap but its Your Engine and the Cleaning Additives they use in their Premium Fuels do Help keep things Cleaner
and Every 3 Months add a Good Quality Fuel and Injector Cleaner to the System

if you are Still having Problems you may need to Run the Engine and put EGR Cleaner through the System
Holding the Revs at 1500 rpm and altering to 2.500 rpm and Squirting the EGR Cleaner in Quick Blasts till the can has Gone
this may Trigger an Engine Management Light this may Clear on it own or you may have to get it Reset
Seek Advice before Doing this or ask a Professional there are Products out there for the Job.
you may have other Problems like cracked intercooler pipes, turbo problems or blocked breather pipes, DPF issues, Swirl flap issues, etc
if problems Persist you should Seek Professional Advice.
this How to is More for Maintenance and Prevention of Problems but it will Cure Most.

Always disconnect the battery before unplugging any electrical connectors to avoid error messages.

....EGR TECH INFO...

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-Serv...8#pid17518

AS WITH ALL MECHANICAL HOW TOO,S.
you do this at your own risk if you follow the how to correctly
there should be no problems thank you.

INFO NOW UP.

Well done and thank you.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can Also Do a Diesel Purge to get the Injectors in Top Condition

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&...AuOPOhuhKg

You can make a Rig up like the one Here it makes things Easier

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq_ZGh1KEec

And This is a full System and Turbo Cleaner
but this may or will Trigger the Engine Management Light
This may need to be Reset but i Don't know that for Sure
But the Benefits may be Worth the Cost of the Reset.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&...GabCW5Y61w

now there a is few how to's that need Doing Ha ha
just a few other things to think about and try.

I deffo need to do this :-p not got all the tools though :-(

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sure rusty can tackle it if you ask nice

Going to see him sunday, got navi fin ready getting navi in feb

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone find they've got a hissing sound whilst accelerating after cleaning everything out, is this expected or does it sound like a pipe is loose ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a go at doing the throttle body today, did everything step by step but after removing the three torx bolts I couldn't get the intake pipe to budge from the throttle body. I didn't want to put too much pressure on it in case I knackered something, is the intake pipe usually difficult to pull out of the throttle body? Dontknow

My missus had been out in the car a short while before so the engine wasn't totally cooled down so maybe that caused it to be tight? Any advice appreciated.

Got the throttle body done, noticed that if the throttle body is removed it's definitely easier to do the egr valve and egr pipe. So when I have a guaranteed good day of weather I will do them both, even though the valve was only done about 6 weeks ago by our local garage I don't think they removed the pipe and cleaned that.

Quick question:... I did the egr valve and pipe today and noticed that when I took the egr pipe out there was a metal gasket at the bottom of the pipe, well to be honest it fell out when removing the pipe. Is this gasket meant to be there (fixed to bottom between pipe and intake) as there is no mention of it above, or at least I can't see it mentioned.

There is a gasket there if I remember correctly also a rubber one at the top

(28:th-Aug-2016, 18:14:07)tucpal Wrote: [ -> ]There is a gasket there if I remember correctly also a rubber one at the top

Cheers, yeah I saw the rubber one and heard the metal one fall down just as I removed the last bolt. It looked as though is sat at the bottom of the pipe and it fit there also so assumed it was meant to to be there, just thought I would double check here though as well to make sure. Good job really as I put it back together with the gasket on lol.

Hi , could a degreaser like gunk be used to clean the parts ?

Cheers james

not sure that will break down the carbon
MAF cleaner for the map and maf sensors
DPF cleaner for the rest euro parts do a bigger can and a good soak over night does the trick

Cheers mate

And last question.... what are the benefits of doing this ? Run smoother etc ?

And could you reprofile the butterfly to aid airflow ? ( I've done this numerous times on my twin su's for my classic mini and makes a big difference )

Cheers james

it will run smoother having carbon gunk build up around the throttle body is not good
and when it gets very bad it starts to run down the intercooler pipes and into the intercooler itself
and that also is not a good thing and keeping the EGR clean will stop it from sticking open also not a good thing
cleaning the map sensor will stop it from clogging up and it does that very quickly
it can only be a good thing EGR technology is dreadful

Cool thnx tuc.... on my list to do next weekend

I had a go, and cleaned the EGR Valve, EGR Pipe, MAP sensor and the Throttle Body, to the letter. Refitted the parts and the connectors perfectly. Then I reconnected the Battery by connecting the Negative wire as that was the only wire that was disconnected.
When I connected the battery wire, I heard the small licks and hums , and I believe these are usual system resetting.

Then the final step, I switch on the car and try to start: the dashboard lights are all ok (as usual).
Can hear the starter motor running but the engine is not starting. Please could you advise me the next course of action to be taken or have I miss something in the processes?

check all the connectors are back in place

It all started, after couple of ignition key starts. But, I still see the massage “Service Vehicle Soon”, on the dash. The car does not get accelerated, very slow acceleration. Would a reset bring back to normal running.

you need to get the fault codes read
what did you clean the maf and map sensor with
did you brush the two mentioned sensors at all
the maf sensor is very delicate and heavy brushing may break it

MAP sensor, was cleaned by using EGR spray and brush (old tooth brush). I did not clean the MAF, as I felt the sensor and the rest of the pipes were dust free (the air filter too).
In the process of cleaning the MAP, I observed a slight burn/blackish one side of the sensor. At what stage does this needs to be replaced!
The next is, just before I took the car sensors to be cleaned, I got the massage diesel Particle Filter full and Continue to drive, massage. So I have two issue remaining to be solved; one is the DPF cleaning, and getting rid of the “Service Vehicle soon” message.
Today, I did one full hour of running to get the DPF cleaned, but that massage still keeps coming.
And the next is when I start the car it runs perfectly, but after about 5 minutes, the service massage comes up, and then the speeds drops.

Service Vehicle Soon message is telling you there is a fault, you need to get the car hooked up to a diagnostic machine so that the fault code can be read. The fault could be related to dpf hense the reason why the dpf cannot complete regeneration. It could be because the dpf is too full and can't regen normally, or there could be a fault with some other component relating to dpf such as temp sensor that is causing the issue. Long story short though is take it to someone that can read the stored fault codes.

Don't just keep running the car if the svs message is on and the dpf cannot regenerate as you will end up with much bigger problems.

as above you need a forced regen done on the car any local garage with the correct scan tool can do it
this is unrelated to the clean you have done it is just that you have failed too many regens and the DPF is full

Just fitted a egr blank to mine (with a hole in) and now it wont start. Just turns over. Has anyone got any ideas

yes i have said you can not just add a blanking plate to the egr
it has to be altered with the map also
put the egr back on and hopefully the error code will clear
you need a remap and egr delete by a specialist remapper

i want this done also but if you look at say celtic tuning
they can turn the egr valve function off and also remap the car

Quick question out of curiosity, are the names of the sensors correct in the image below, and is the dpf pressure sensor/ exhaust pressure sensor the same thing?

[Image: 045f14b5c4977f02e0b6fbbb6010d668.png]

[Image: 045f14b5c4977f02e0b6fbbb6010d668.png]

YES mate the only other is the DPF temp sensor on the cat

(7:th-Jan-2017, 22:30:36)tucpal Wrote: [ -> ]YES mate the only other is the DPF temp sensor on the cat

Cheers mate, with people referring to parts using different names all the time you start to think that they are talking about something else lol

Hi This is a great tutorial, will have a go at this in the week, made a massive difference to my H, I was going to blank off the EGR on the BiTurbo but have read it will cause problems, do I wait and do it when I get the DPF gutted and mapped out and get EGR mapped out too?

It’s on 23,000 miles what do you recommend doing and what problems do they suffer, I've had the 2009 SRi XP 1.9 H for 6 years and has only problem was bearing whine last year, but got all the bearing replaced before any damage set in, lucky and just missed the DPF so no problems there, EGR was blanked off at 36,000 and done a similar clean and the gunk in the throttle end was just crazy.

Hi to all new here and always find forums a great source of help.

Steve.

(26:th-May-2017, 20:20:03)eatmybogbrush Wrote: [ -> ]Hi This is a great tutorial, will have a go at this in the week, made a massive difference to my H, I was going to blank off the EGR on the BiTurbo but have read it will cause problems, do I wait and do it when I get the DPF gutted and mapped out and get EGR mapped out too?

It’s on 23,000 miles what do you recommend doing and what problems do they suffer, I've had the 2009 SRi XP 1.9 H for 6 years and has only problem was bearing whine last year, but got all the bearing replaced before any damage set in, lucky and just missed the DPF so no problems there, EGR was blanked off at 36,000 and done a similar clean and the gunk in the throttle end was just crazy.

Hi to all new here and always find forums a great source of help.

Steve.

It does help giving them a good clean.

Most people only advise gutting the DPF if you have issues with it.

I would hold fire on the DPF gut as new laws are coming out to test the DPF in an MOT.

There could be a way around it, get a spare ECU programmed and then mapped and a spare DPF this way way you can restore the car back to standard for MOT's etc.

Ok I thought they may change the law as it's been on the cards for years, would like the EGR blanked off as soon as, changing some of my bulbs for LED's I noticed the headlights have 3 bulbs in them, it's only taken me 3 weeks to notice that, never seen headlights with 3 bulbs?

Can you retrofit the silver bits around the fog lamps on the VXR to the BiTurbo bumper?

I have done this now and great what a difference, mine was dry soot on the pipe so just put a dremel with a little wire wheel up the tube { long flexi head }, quite a bit of crap around throttle body and the pressure sensor, could hardly see through it, also put a long screw driver up the manifold and scrapped out some oily gunk eewww you get in a right mess lol.

Sensor was easier just to move the wiring harness out the way, excellent tutorial thanks.

Is there any other guide likes this for the 2.0 CDTI? ,This is a great guide done the EGR using this a few weeks ago now going to do my MAP and MAF , would want to find clear guides like this for other jobs my next one is timing belt ,waterpump,pulleys,tensioner and coolant change.

Hi I realise this is a old post but followed it yesterday and now I’ve got a coolant leak I think it’s coming from the little hole on the side of the egr valve I topped it back up and after a short drive it’s nearly empty again,is there anything ment to be connected in the little hole?

Hi I removed my egr the other day cleaned it and noticed today my coolant tank was empty I took it all apart and checked it was back on correct and re topped up drove a short journey and it’s nearly empty again I think it’s leaking from the little hole on the egr valve is there ment to be something plugged into this?any help would be really appreciated thanks

I've had mine off a few times and not had any issues as far I know water doesn't go to the EGR.

Have knocked a pipe while doing it maybe?

Could be worth running the engine and have a good look around for any leaks.

(23:rd-Aug-2016, 21:32:32)Starie Wrote: [ -> ]Anyone find they've got a hissing sound whilst accelerating after cleaning everything out, is this expected or does it sound like a pipe is loose ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, how did you fix this problem please?

De acuerdo,
gracias [Image: smile.png]

Why are the pictures blurry?

(20:th-Feb-2020, 22:26:56)charlestodd Wrote: [ -> ]Why are the pictures blurry?

It's a limitation of PB if you open them in a new TAB the image is clear on PB.

i have a 2015 code any help would be most appreciated

Hi,

I'm struggling a bit here, I've unclipped the sensor and taken out the 2 torx screws (top and bottom). I would have thought with a bit of a pull it would come off. Am I missing anything or just need to put more force into it?