VXOC Astra-J/GTC

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Hey guys Smile

So I'm planning on using my partners Go Pro as a dash cam and was just going to stick it to the windscreen just a bit below where the rear view mirror is...anyone think this is a good place to put it or does anyone else use one for this (or use dash cams in general) and know of a better place to mount it?

Thanks
Il get a pic of mine tomorrow, I have an SJCAM SJ4000 which is a virtually identical replica, even uses gopro accessories Smile

I got a PS4 mini USB from Argos & hard wired it too.
This is where I have mine

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Cheers guys! Will look our for those photos today @Jj0063. How have you hard wires the cable in? That's what I was worried about with mine, no idea how to get a cable all the way up to the roof lining and into the camera.

Yeah that's where I was planning on putting mine rusty, just have the basic clip with a double sided sticky pad which came with the camera and hoping that will be suitable for the job
I fitted a hidden 12v socket behind the glove box, gone off the battery via a relay with an ignition live.
I've got mine to the left of the mirror/passenger side so it's less visible.

Wiring it in is easy, run the lead down the pillar, behind the glovebox and to the rear of the 12v socket. Buy another 12v socket from eBay/Halfords and splice into the wiring to the car 12v with either scotch blocks or straight into it & solder it.

I've done this on 3 cars over the last 2 years and never had any issues. If you're anywhere near Norfolk or Chesterfield il even help/do it for you @sheppy1
That sounds easy enough that does guys! I will go for the splicing another 12v socket option. Is there a tutorial anywhere on how to fit the 12v socket? I saw this tutorial:
http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-How-...hcam-phone

But wondering if it's better to do that or the 12v socket method?

Also thanks for offering to meet up and help! I'd 100% take you up on the offer but it's 65 miles between us :(
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Meh 65 miles is nothing lol where are you? I did 148 miles yesterday to take the Mrs to one shop!
Ahhh sweet! That's different to where I settled on putting mine:

[Image: 74d06050c78a27762751faca901d3cba.jpg]

[Image: 59772dfa142461eae15cf7757a8bace3.jpg]

And I know mate, i do double that every day to work and back which is why I didn't really wanna do it at the weekend too haha
You guys don't have the gibbins on the windscreen I do I would prefer it up behind the mirror out of the way.

I would still advise an inline fuse is added to the extra circuit for protection.
I fitted mine in the week and i have to agree that i am in favor of hiding it behind the mirror.

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I've had to fit it slighty lower as it has gps

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The cam i have has a parking mode. It can be powered from a cigarette adaptor, but it also has a low battery lock out so i have gone for the hardwired option.

I decided to remove the glove box and found a handy loom gromet that has a nipple that can be cut off and the wire threaded through. As others have said and it's a wise move in my eyes is to fit a fuse.

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Hmmmm yeah defo looks good hidden like that but isn't bothering me in the slightest having it visible...it only drops a few CM below the rear view mirror so isn't much more noticeable than the rear view mirror itself...plus I can easily see if the thing is still recording as it has a flashing red icon Smile

Anyone got any hints, tips or a tutorial on how to get a wire from wherever you guys have put it, up into the pillars and then to the cameras?
(14:th-Jun-2015, 20:09:13)sheppy1 Wrote: [ -> ]Hmmmm yeah defo looks good hidden like that but isn't bothering me in the slightest having it visible...it only drops a few CM below the rear view mirror so isn't much more noticeable than the rear view mirror itself...plus I can easily see if the thing is still recording as it has a flashing red icon Smile

Anyone got any hints, tips or a tutorial on how to get a wire from wherever you guys have put it, up into the pillars and then to the cameras?
From behind the mirror to the piller is the easy bit as the wire will just push in with your fingers. I was a bit dubious about the pushing it down the piller because of the air bags but i read a write up on here and the long and short is, if you give the lower part of the piller cover a firm pull it will come off, a gentle thump is all you need to put it back. The biggest problem i had was getting the glove box out as the trim between the door card and the glovebox has a stupid locating lug on it.

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(14:th-Jun-2015, 20:59:41)Nickmagicfingers1981 Wrote: [ -> ]
(14:th-Jun-2015, 20:09:13)sheppy1 Wrote: [ -> ]Hmmmm yeah defo looks good hidden like that but isn't bothering me in the slightest having it visible...it only drops a few CM below the rear view mirror so isn't much more noticeable than the rear view mirror itself...plus I can easily see if the thing is still recording as it has a flashing red icon Smile

Anyone got any hints, tips or a tutorial on how to get a wire from wherever you guys have put it, up into the pillars and then to the cameras?
From behind the mirror to the piller is the easy bit as the wire will just push in with your fingers. I was a bit dubious about the pushing it down the piller because of the air bags but i read a write up on here and the long and short is, if you give the lower part of the piller cover a firm pull it will come off, a gentle thump is all you need to put it back. The biggest problem i had was getting the glove box out as the trim between the door card and the glovebox has a stupid locating lug on it.

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Okay thanks! So is the airbag not there then when you pull the cover off? Be a bit of extra messing around for me as i wanna get the wire up into the roof lining and down where the mirror is...pain because you can't see what you're doing with the wire once it's in the roof lining lol.

ahhhh yeah! I always thought the glove box would be a ball ache to get out and i actually had some work done where the guy pulled it out in like 2 mins! should have asked him how he did it as im sure ill spend about an hour trying to get it off myself haha
There is a how-to for the glovebox, quickest way.

1.pull the rubber off around the door (where the side trim is)

2. Undo the 4 7mm bolts.

3. Remove glove and unplug light.

Refit in reverse order.


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Its honestly so easy mate!

As said, top of the w/screen it tucks in. Then where the pillar trim meets roof lining just use a trim tool or a clean flat head screw driver & lever the trim enough to tuck the wire in.. It's very flexible. Now the wire has been hidden from the cam, to the door side of the pillar trim, you then want to tuck the wire behind the rubber seal, push it in with a trim tool again & then run the trim tool inside the rubber to pull the rubber back to where it should be. Once you've done that you need to do the same behind the rubber that goes down the side of the vent for the window, you're then at the top of the glove box. Open the door. Open the glove box & the end of the dash trim will just pull off. You've then exposed the first glovebox bolt (7mm IIRC), undo it along with the other 3 bolts, one in each corner. Shut the glovebox & pull it out. Unclip the glovebox light.

You then need to remove the gear gaitor & undo the two Philips screws that hold the trim on.. Then remove dash trim and the storage tray.

Once you've done this you will be able to unclip the OEM 12v socket, pull this towards you & it's clear there are two wires from it.. Connect your aftermarket 12v socket to this.

Pull the passenger side trim that runs from the left of the centre console, it just pulls off.. Feed your Dashcam power lead up and out so it is near your new 12v socket. Plug it in now and make sure it powers up.

Next you can secure the lead up and under the glovebox area, I cable tied mine to the metal bar that runs above the pollen filter area.

Refit the OEM 12v socket in place, tuck your new additional 12v in the space to the right, there's a perfect size gap which keeps it snug and out of the way of the gears. Refit dash trim.

Refit the trim which runs along the left side of centre console. Refit glovebox, refit end of dash trim.

Job done.

It sounds a lot of work but took me all of 20 minutes. No worrying about running power from the battery or anything like that, only thing I'd suggest doing which I didn't is fitting an inline fuse between the car and the secondary 12v socket. I didn't & had no issues on the 3 cars I've done like this but for the sake of a couple of quid it's worth doing it.

Il happily help anyone wanting to do this by the way.

If you need anything elks let me know, I can take mine apart for pics if required.

Jordan
Hey Jordan,

Thanks for the great write up and detailed notes! Will try and find a time to sit in my car and go over what you've said and see if I can follow it all properly. If so I'll go ahead and order the parts.

Is there even an airbag in the pillar that I'd be tucking the cable into? I thought there was only one in the big vertical A pillar?

Thanks

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http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/pa...584776.htm


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRIFFIN-TWIN-2...0999272892

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Motorcycle...27ef7c2c8f

That 12v socket has an inline fuse so would be ideal.

All you need to do is piggyback the loom that feeds the cars original 12v socket, fit the secondary new socket, put the Griffin adapter in the socket, run the lead from there to the cam - job done.
(16:th-Jun-2015, 12:28:16)Jj0063 Wrote: [ -> ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRIFFIN-TWIN-2...0999272892

Be very careful with that another member has had issues with them.

This is what I used, I drilled a hole in the top of glove box for it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-USB-Car-C...4d224816e7
Thanks again guys! Have a few options now to look into don't I e.g. whether i need to piggy back off the fuse in the fuse box or should go for a cigarette socket which has a fuse built into it? Anyone know which option is best?

Other than that it seems like an easy enough job Smile and if I decide to just leave the new plug socket just dangling there behind the console will this now cause any issues?
TBH I still put an inline fuse on the new wire as close to splice as possible to protect the wire all that built in fuse will do is protect the item itself.
Right okay...So all I need to do is splice the new 12v plug onto the wire of the old 12v plug and also add an inline fuse like this one:

http://www.optifuse.com/LargePhotos/LPX-04B-I_lg.jpg

And then leave it just taped up behind the console and then just use a 12v/USB adapter so I can connect the cable up? Or even use the item that you linked too @rusty2009 which has the USB ports already built into it...

Thanks for all the help from the both of you, looking forward to tackling this and sure i'll be pestering you @jj0063 at some point if that's okay?

Also do you have any photos of where you drilled the hole in the glove compartment? Wouldn't mind doing that with mine as I'm after wiring another USB cable in for my phone...Taking it you just used one of the standard circle drilling drill bits?
Yes correct Smile

Any time, just give me a shout. I'm wiring my sub in tomorrow night if I have time so I've got to remove my head unit & glovebox etc so il get some pics if it helps?
Awesome dude! That would be a great help if you don't mind Big grin if you could just show me how it's spliced onto your current 12v plug that would be ideal.

Still a bit unsure about which pillar I'm supposed to be running the UBS cable into though when I bring it down from inside the roof lining...is it the pillar behind the seat or the one in front of the seat closest to the wing mirrors?

Thanks again!
The side of the windscreen.

Il get pics tomorrow for you, leave it with me Smile
Yes mate that's correct you could put that in-line fuse right on the old 12v socket.

I'll get you pic later mate when I go out, I used a holesaw to drill it but I still had to make it bigger using a file.
Awesome guys! Thanks Smile sure I'll be find once I have those photos from you both. The info so far has been really helpful. I'll definitely look at doing what you did anyway rusty, Makes more sense so the plug is actually usable then too and I can connect and disconnect cables from it easily.

How long a micro usb cable will I need?

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Here's the pic.

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Perfect! I'd still be able to run a micro USB cable up to the roof lining if it was plugged into one of those two plus if I did it like you have wouldn't I? I mean the cable doesn't need to be ran behind the glove compartment or anything does it?
just run it out of glove-box via the fuse board flap cover
ahhhh good idea! so all i need is the following:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-USB-Car-C...4d224816e7

http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Trade-Direct...nline+fuse

Some wire (have this already)

Long USB cable (still not sure how long it needs to be)

Thanks, gonna order as soon as i have confirmed the above is all i need Smile

Also has anyone used Flux paste for help with soldering? I'm getting worried about all these wires I have just taped together in my car but soldering always fails!

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Yes mate that's fine.

Yep I've used flux paste easy enough to use but can be messy I tend to use liquid flux more tho (due to soldering small wires etc or model trains railways).
Oooo okay, so that liquid flux can be used for soldering wires like in our cars then? If so can you please link to the type you have.

Thanks Big grin
Yeah I use a small paint brush lol, I'll find you link tomorrow but normally buy it from the model shop (about £4-6 a bottle)


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Haha whatever works eh! Thanks mate Smile.

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Is there a reason that I have to run the wire all the way from the cigarette lighter behind the dash to get the new one working? Is there not somewhere closer that I can take the power from?
Could tap into the fuse board.
yeah that's what I was thinking...hmmmm, still need to buy the parts but just wanted to make sure I was confident enough to do the work before getting it all!

Still not sure about my soldering skills and also cutting into the glove box roof is making me nervous hahaha
It's been discussed before that there's no reason why tapping into the courtesy light constant live wouldn't work
(25:th-Jun-2015, 17:11:36)Rusty2009 Wrote: [ -> ]Could tap into the fuse board.
Any idea which fuse i would be able to pick back off?


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(26:th-Jun-2015, 08:14:54)Jj0063 Wrote: [ -> ]It's been discussed before that there's no reason why tapping into the courtesy light constant live wouldn't work
Thanks mate. Will go for this option if I'm not able to piggyback off the fuse box

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Not without looking IIRC @tucpal said fuse 16 is free
Okie dokie thanks Smile will grab a photo if that helps?

Also would I be best using one of these to connect the wire into the fuse slot?

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yes use a piggy back fuse 16 glove box if you have it
Cheers dude...only issue is I dunno if I have 16! Here's a photo of my fusebox:

[Image: UdXMBxK28ekYMjjAyLGSjpNBbh79-mm1X6I8BMgd...08-h606-no]

Did a quick google and it seems like the one between the two "10" fuses is 16...that seem right?
Goggle are you Loopy we have that info on this very site Banghead ...

http://www.vxoc.org.uk/forum/Thread-Fuses

I think I need to have words with your wife to give you good whipping Lol
Balls....hahahaha! My bad! I really messed up Googling that when I'm on a site which is the fountain of all Astra knowledge!! :P

Cheers dude! Finally, what amp fuse should I go for? That info doesn't appear to be on that link Wink lol
No more than a 5amp.
Cool! Thanks, so 5amp fuse, that piggyback wire and I'll be good to go yeah? I'll be able to spin the current piggyback fuse around won't I that you can see in the photo to make way for this new one?

Also looking to get this 12v socket and just wondering what those end connectors are all about? Not sure what I'd actually connect those up too on the fuse box side...or would I just cut the cable and splice it onto that piggyback cable I just bought?

Thanks guys and sorry to be a nag Wink
Yes mate.
Ta, bought everything but the USB cable now. Should be able to fit it next weekend Smile
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